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Gosh that's cool! I don't think I've seen a rear axle suspension like that before. You always find the nicest karts. You did the world a service removing those awful noodles.

Welcome!

Pretty cool.

Welcome!

Calm down. Number one: do not build out of plywood. It will break, and it is incredibly unsafe. Make your frame out of steel and weld it! Most go karts only have brakes on the rear axle. If you can return that engine you can buy a predator 212 from harbor freight that would more suit your project.

These are deep questions for a go kart forum. Just Another Bob Thread... JABT

Oh it's not silly. We are here for the same reason. It's wonderful "therapy."

How'd he get banned? These are the folks of yore to me, before my time.

SO... Ol Doug killed Eric for posting suspicious pictures?

Welcome!

Get out a tape measure and check, it's important. WTR is right. Do it right the first time and save money.

Oh, yes you can. I missed the fact that these have threads inside for a bolt. My mistake.

Aside from the fact that this is way too powerful for any kind of kart and most buggies, that mower diff will not survive. I doubt most ATV diffs would survive. If you're going to build something like this, please don't get killed.

T-nuts are really good if you want to protect that plywood. You can also just use normal bolts if you use t-nuts. The downside is you'd have to take apart the cushion to put the t-nuts in the upward-facing side of the plywood.

The 6-inch version of these. They fit perfect. https://www.bmikarts.com/-410350-Sawtooth-Tire_p_4077.html This is the kart, I'm running them on the back. It hasn't been ridden so I can't speak on performance.

I have the same rims FA!

Welcome!

@BrownStainRacing was big into crank vents on modified engines, and he was (IMHO) the best engine builder here.

I agree with Denny, check the float bowl and needle valve.

And your fuel cut of switch is passing fuel? This problem is completely foreign to me.