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The KBL is trapezoidal. I had problems with running a KVD trapezoidal, so I'd stick to sinusoidals. The KLS7230S is only rated for 120A continuous. I'd suggest you go bigger than your motor's continuous rating; My previous KLS-H got very hot when run at the specification limits. The KLS7275H has...

I got everything hooked up and did a couple of test rides before disassembly to check the cells. One module had an unusual drop in voltage. I ended up finding three dead cells in a parallel bank and some mildly weak parallel banks. I probably blew that bank myself being lazy with checking...

Time for some bigger motors!

This afternoon, I finished up a few things and got the kart running along with the new buck converter for accessories. The active balancer is still on the way, so I individually charged each module to 28v (below max) to get them acceptably top balanced for now. I took it out for a test ride...

That rectifier should work fine as long as your AC voltage input stays in range.

I made some progress... In order to tie the rear two modules together and keep out debris on the motor side, I cut a mild steel sheet to size and drilled a grid of holes to match the bolt holes between the two modules. ...after bending the sheet to cover the top of the modules (hammer and...

No problem. If the instructions aren't clear with the switch, the screws in the housing are the terminals where you attach your wires. You can see the wires in my picture if you look closely.

I rigged it up with some zip ties and a hose clamp on the same mount as the return spring. I'd weld a proper mount, but this has been working perfectly for over a year. The wires just connect to your brake signal line. There is no polarity; it is just a simple switch.

I mounted a spring pull switch on my brake pedal in tandem with the manual brake. The switch is off or on so just does what I program the controller to do instead of progressively increasing braking as I push the pedal more. However, the manual brake is on the same pedal and acts as a backup or...

Well, I decided I was leaving some rpm and torque unused with the ME1719 even with flux weakening, so I ordered some headway batteries in what are apparently transformer modules. I shucked them in various degrees and checked the fit to confirm I didn't screw up and they all fit as I'd hoped...

How big is the kart you're putting this on? If it is a bigger yard kart, I'd go at least #35 anyway. I use #420 on mine.

I'm considering further modifying my son's Razor Dune Buggy that uses #25. What issues are you running into with #25?

...and it could be more powerful at the same time.

Maybe just dump the 8mm and go #25? Or you could weld the freewheel hub.. https://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/category.aspx/chains-and-sprockets-ansi-25/128/

Have you tried here? https://electricscooterparts.com/sprockets8mmchain.html

Any update on the build?

If you want split rims, Azusa steel wheels are what I use (5" front and 6" rear). Get the wide halves for the back. I usually get tubes and replacement slicks from eBay.

When I said "getting no braking", I meant not getting unwanted braking without hitting the brake.

Regenerative braking is only like 15% efficient. Unless I roll down from the top of a hill without using the throttle (can't happen here), I won't be putting in more energy than I took out.

Thanks. It took way longer than I originally anticipated. If I was going to do this any more often, I'd probably need to get a plasma cutting table like your nephew. Fany at Kelly says the controller will shut off and need to be cycled if the overvolt protection is tripped. So, I won't be using...