Predator 212 gov delete support mods

Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
I wanna take the governor off my non Hemi predator 212 I plan on putting a different coil on it to limit the rpm I also want to upgrade the valve springs to eliminate valve float but not rev it high so I don’t explode the stock flywheel, I’ve tried looking for a good answer but I couldn’t find one. I know that the valves float between 5000-5400rpm I want some recommendations for a rev limiter around there and let me know about any opinions or recommendations you guys got!
 
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
I want something thats safe and reliable so I don’t blow up my flywheel and I plan to install stiffer valve springs anyways since there cheap enough.
 
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
panchothedog said:
If you don't change the flywheel ( and the rod ) just keep the stock valve springs in there. That 5400 to 5500 rpm range where they start to float is about as fast as the factory stock pieces will handle.
Click to expand...
I still plan to do springs since there cheap enough, what rpm would you say my rev limiter should be? I’m going to be ordering one. Also I just wanted more options on the flywheel and rod because some people say it will blow up if you look at it wrong or some say 6,000 is borrowed time not that I’m going to rev it that high.
 
Edwin Spangler

Edwin Spangler

Well-known member
Messages
1,007
Reaction score
999
Ls1Garage said:
I plan to just do springs I’m not some kid trying to spin his motor to moon just trying to make it safe and reliable
Click to expand...
These are contradictory statements. Safe and reliable would be NOT changing the springs.

Dont change the springs until you change the flywheel and rod. Youre just asking for a chunk of cast iron in your thigh or back.
 
Sparkwizard

Sparkwizard

Well-known member
Messages
640
Reaction score
764
Location
Richlands ,NC USA
Is it not safe and reliable, now?
I like to leave the governor connected and working. I often replace the long spring between the throttle arm and the governor arm. I can run about 45oo RPM safely like that. Costs about 3 bucks.
 
Hellion

Hellion

Murderator
Messages
9,072
Reaction score
4,063
Sparkwizard said:
I like to leave the governor connected and working…
Click to expand...

You’re my hero! Do you use a generic/upgrade/aftermarket/hardware store spring or what?

FYI to the newbs: Tension on the governor spring assembly is what allows the higher RPMs. The governor is not a rev limiter, it is a rev maintainer.
 
Last edited:
Sparkwizard

Sparkwizard

Well-known member
Messages
640
Reaction score
764
Location
Richlands ,NC USA
Sometimes I just double the stock springs, but not in the farthest hole in the governor arm. Maybe both in the middle hole and adjust from there.
Lowe's and Tractor Supply have good selections of springs. You'll want one slightly stiffer, or harder to stretch than the original. Length is not important because that can be adjusted with wire. Just be careful the first time you start it. You want to be sure it will return to idle. DO NOT bend the stock spring to make it shorter. It will not return to idle reliably.
 
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Sparkwizard said:
Is it not safe and reliable, now?
I like to leave the governor connected and working. I often replace the long spring between the throttle arm and the governor arm. I can run about 45oo RPM safely like that. Costs about 3 bucks.
Click to expand...
It is safe and reliable stock I see people rev out there engine without a gov and blow there engine up so what I’m asking is what is what rpm is proven to last.
 
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Sparkwizard said:
Sometimes I just double the stock springs, but not in the farthest hole in the governor arm. Maybe both in the middle hole and adjust from there.
Lowe's and Tractor Supply have good selections of springs. You'll want one slightly stiffer, or harder to stretch than the original. Length is not important because that can be adjusted with wire. Just be careful the first time you start it. You want to be sure it will return to idle. DO NOT bend the stock spring to make it shorter. It will not return to idle reliably.
Click to expand...
I have messed with the gov on my stock Coleman engine before on a mini bike, I would be fine running the governor just running it higher like you mentioned on my 212.
 
Edwin Spangler

Edwin Spangler

Well-known member
Messages
1,007
Reaction score
999
 
Last edited:
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Edwin Spangler said:
www.eccarburetors.com

Cast Aluminum Flywheel – Tillotson 212R, Wildcat 240 & Honda/Clone Engines

www.eccarburetors.com
Click to expand...
I looked Into the flywheel and connection rod but what I noticed is that in the description the only supported predator engine is the 224 Hemi and like everything else even the Honda clones, only reason I hesitate buying these parts is because I thought they were insanely expensive.
 
Edwin Spangler

Edwin Spangler

Well-known member
Messages
1,007
Reaction score
999
Ls1Garage said:
It is safe and reliable stock I see people rev out there engine without a gov and blow there engine up so what I’m asking is what is what rpm is proven to last.
Click to expand...
There are stories of flywheel exploding at stock speeds. Most people will suggest what you see in this thread, about 5k max and thats a gamble still... The only 100% way to not blow it up is to never run it.

I spin a gx390 flywheel up to 6 k but since its a Honda, I can kinda trust it a little more. That, plus I have a 1/4" steel shield seperating the engine from the people in the kart.
 
Edwin Spangler

Edwin Spangler

Well-known member
Messages
1,007
Reaction score
999
Ls1Garage said:
I looked Into the flywheel and connection rod but what I noticed is that in the description the only supported predator engine is the 224 Hemi and like everything else even the Honda clones, only reason I hesitate buying these parts is because I thought they were insanely expensive.
Click to expand...
Oh hang on sorry, that EC link is incorrect. I meant to link ebay for the flywheel.

 
Ls1Garage

Ls1Garage

New member
Messages
11
Reaction score
2
Edwin Spangler said:
Oh hang on sorry, that EC link is incorrect. I meant to link ebay for the flywheel.

Click to expand...
If there was a rpm you had to name or the general ball park what max rpm should this be ran at without turning into metal confetti, also I’m knowledgeable in what engine parts are what I usually work on cars and rebuild those motor I don’t trust Ai with my question I want real people with real answers like you gave me.
 
Hellion

Hellion

Murderator
Messages
9,072
Reaction score
4,063
Most of the time, the stock Predator flywheel just throws off its magnet into a low earth orbit. The magnet is not securely affixed (just epoxy?) but when it does let go, the flywheel is horribly unbalanced after that ...but luckily for us the spark is now gone and the engine is winding down at that point.

The old Briggs (Raptor and regular block) flathead flywheels had no issues until they were regularly hitting up to 10,000 RPMs and the degraded quality or abuse the flywheel had accumulated over its lifetime (dropped and kicked around) came into focus or became a liability. Anyway, the flywheel magnet on those is quite well mated to the flywheel....

Be neat if there’s a general rule of thumb for the “redline” on the stock Predator flywheel. There’s only bits and pieces and theory and not everyone runs a tachometer. I would get a tachometer for every engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top