Recent content by mark123

We have a 2 seater dingo and it is working great but kids hate that it is so bouncy (no suspension) and no reverse. Princess auto (Canada version of harbour freight)sells this Kandi 200 that looks to be everything they want. Does anyone have any first hand experience with it. Do the engines...

I just drilled drain holes in crankcase vent a bit larger as suggested by many YouTube videos. Seems to have helped, not spitting anymore. There are tons of videos on there regarding this problem.

It is a 10 hp "power sport" tecumseh flat head. I took pcv valve out and disassembled/cleaned it. Little bit of smoke pulsing out of vent tube. If I open oil filler there is smoke pulsing out of it as well. Other than the oil spitting it starts, idles and runs perfect.

I removed crankcase vent and cleaned it up. It simply is just a 90 degree hose open all the way through, no 1 way valve or anything. There is some mesh material behind the cover then a metal plate with some holes in it. Is this the way it should be. Also I checked compression, only 85 psi with...

Our 10 hp tecumseh spits oil out of rubber crankcase vent and burns oil . Are these engines worth fixing, would honing and new rings solve the problem? It starts and idles/runs fine.

Problem discovered I took starter apart, brushes were clean and free. I then noticed 1 magnet was cracked and Un-glued and another one was unglued as well. No fixing the cracked one so I bought a used starter for 40 bucks only to discover one of its magnets were unglued as well so I clean it up...

Must be the brushes I guess. It shoots forward and engages fine just has very little rotational force

I have a 10 hp tecumseh electric start engine on a Dingo. Battery fully charged it will barely turn over and sometimes will not at all. Starts first pull with pull cord. I took flywheel housing off and can hold the starter drive with my hand and prevent it from turning over when key is turned...

I bought an old 2 seater dingo a while back that needed some work. After getting it working my kids complained that it was very hard to steer. I came up with this idea and it has worked very well, kids love driving it now. 2:1 ratio with the sprockets.(9 and 18 tooth #40).

The old engines would run as long as the single wire wasn't grounded. These new ones will not run with these wire not connected to anything. I ended up splicing 2 of them together and that leads to a grounding switch. The third wire us yellow and leads to low oil shut down. Any harm in running...

Engines such as the Honda gx 270 9hp side shaft always had a 1 wire coil. Now they have 3 wires, why is this?

I have an old dingo with 10 hp tecumseh. previous owner removed some parts (no idea why). The electric starter works fine when connected with booster cable to starter battery post, I was just going to use an old Ford starter solenoid for that. There are 2 wires coming our from flywheel cover one...

Well I guess it would be too much work to switch it all around. Differential/final drive sprocket cannot be moved left or right so drive sprocket can't either, this mean driven clutch has to go with spring away from engine(with yellow spring). For some reason series 40 driven clutch are 20-30...

Is it better to mount the other way so it does not need to float. I have no problem changing it around if need be. If I have to change it all would it be best to avoid 5/8 shaft and go with 3/4 or better yet 7/8. those driven clutches are available in all three sizes I see.

here are some pics. just would like to confirm if I need red spring or reverse yellow spring? The spring side of driven will have to go away from the engine.