Recent content by Chris T.

You should post a picture of the old gasket, it my be the valves that are causing the loss of compression. So check them before spending anymore money.

I think you forgot to post the video lol

Sounds like the lever that swings out and engages is sticking, really worn down, or the spring that hold it (not the recoil spring) is broken. I would just take it apart and have a look, you can usually take a look at the lever without removing the recoil spring housing which saves a lot of trouble.

Open the O2 adjustment on the torch handle to FULL, then use your adjuster on the cutter body to adjust your O2. Also there is no goofing with torches, one wrong move and you can have a very serious problem on your hands. One thing I would recommend getting is a pair of flash-back arrestors if...

1997 was the first year they came out with a batteryless EFI system I'm pretty sure. As far as why I bought a new secondary, the one he gave me was from some old junk sled and was seized onto a jackshaft, (A jackshaft is already in my sled). It was also missing the spring and was in horrible...

Just ordered $300 worth in parts, including new secondary clutch for only 90 bucks. One question, what brand of battery would you recommend for the sled?

Finally got me cases split after fighting with the flywheel for 3 days...(Took 500ft/lbs impact, oxy-ace heat, puller, and a big hammer to get her off) Spent three hours working on just the top of the case, here is how she turned out. Now my arms are tired from all that scrubbing lol. But hey...

Just got the sled home here are some pictures, It's gonna need a lot of work!

Here are some pictures

Went to pick up a snowmobile today with Tyler and the owner just gave this to us with the sled... (Pictures are on their way!) It's in running condition (Fired up no problem with new gas), but we plan on cleaning it up and restoring it, needs some TLC.

Hey, I'm picking up a snowmobile tomorrow as a summer project, it's a 1996 ZR 580 EFI with 2000 snow-pro rear suspension and handle bars for $800 (really good price for around here) Right now the engine is apart but it comes with a new top end (Teflon coated SPI pistons, rings, etc.) It needs...

Dot 4 is all you need and that's the recommended fluid to use. Just be sure to keep a eye on your reservoir, if this gets to low and sucks air, you'll have to start all over again. Just keep it topped up and you'll be fine

That is the same thing that happened to me but I did prep all my plastics. My gas tank started to bubble over the winter months and I had to strip all of it off and re paint. Also I did notice that once repainted the plastics like to hold onto grease and dirt more just be sure to keep them clean.

I agree that was a very "interesting" read. If you haven't yet I would check it out.

Thanks for all the advise so far, I'm still debating what to get. Do you think the heating of the steel would cause it to be too brittle for use in a chassis. (I'll be heating the bends once and letting it air cool, so no heating / re-heating going on)