Recent content by babzog

Not easily, no. The tensioner sprocket is the tough one to access as the muffler is a insanely supreme SOB to remove (shouldn't be, but it is on my unit) without prying it off and destroying the gasket in the process. I'd only be able to add max one washer there anyway as I don't have the bolt...

I was reassembling the clutch and chain on my son's Arctic Cat ZR120 (mini snowmobile) last night and noticed that the only way I can get the clutch sprocket, tensioner sprocket and rear sprocket to line up, is to remove the snap ring at the end of the clutch. Otherwise, the clutch sprocket is...

I've showed a few folks who've been around engines a long time, or who've worked on them professionally. All have said much the same... never seen that before.

As promised, a pic of the new linkage. Seems to work but definately not what I would have preferred (esp. when the manual pics show that the optional linkage kit is so simple).

Sorry fo the delay in responding, was focused on getting the woodpile in order. Pulled the engine and opened it up Sat. Found the problem: Looks like the intake valve departed somehow (how?!?), dropped into the cyl, punched up through the head nr the spark plug, dropped down again, then...

Have a Honda gc160 that now won't start. Used to blow a bit of blue smoke after a cold start but now won't start at all. Removed plug and it looked like it was soaked in what seemed to be oil. Cleaned it up and pulled the rope a few times... Lots of spark. Has gas and I'd just cleaned the carb a...

Finally got the pics off my camera. Youy can see the wonky steering setup. There's another weird thing... when I turn the wheel fully left, the whole frame shifts to the right (pushed by the wheels). The same does not happen when I turn the wheel fully to the right. What would cause this?

Sometimes I like to sneak out in the wee hours and pour it between the rows in my vegetable garden to keep the weeds down.

You nailed it! If it was good 'nuff fer my pappy, it's good 'nuff fer me. 'Sides, the back of the shop is closer and easier to get to, for me, than the wetlands in the back of the property. Just too lazy, I guess. Hehehe

Just dump it out behind the shop. Sometimes, I take it to the waste oil collection center at our local waste transfer station.

So the clutch that came on the kart I just picked up for the kids appears to be bad. While just rolling along, the clutch would frequently grab and make a horrible noise. The fellow just said to take it apart, clean it and lube it with some oil. So I did that and it was okay for a little while...

I gather then, with forward pointing steering arms, the tie rods are always crossed? So, one mounted one on top of the bellcrank and one underneath to provide the clearances? Must look weird... I can see why folks mount them behind and point the steering arms at the rear axle, so much simpler.

Yeah, that was the thread I mentioned reading.

Well, that's what I'm trying to work out.... how to best fix it. I suppose I could simply cut the spindles off and re-weld with the caster set from 10-12* but how do I go about measuring that (ie: what tool would I need? OR, how do you guys do it?) As for correcting ackerman... I understand...

Is there any rule of thumb by which to set the distance from the center of the steering column to the holes? Is there a relation between that distance and the distance between the kingpin center to the tie rod connection point on the steering arm?