Celerity Quicksilver Sport Coupe (EA racer)

Functional Artist

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I got 'er all bonded together :banana:
SAM_9455 (1).JPG
Close up of overlapping junction/seam
* See how the screws help to "clamp" the overlapping panels together
** The screws will be removed after the resin cures &/then, the holes will be filled in
SAM_9456 (1).JPG
An issue I came across, was in a couple of "spots" the screws ended up "grabbing" some FG fibers, from the "glue strip", during screwing
...&/then, "bunched" the fibers up into a kinda like "goopy cotton ball"

These "goopy cotton balls" had to be removed (which was a "goopy" PITA) :oops:
...because the "bunched up" material was actually "pushing" the panels apart
...&/so/then, I upgraded to 1/4" nuts & bolts ;)
SAM_9458 (1).JPG
A view of the body side panel, to floorboard, inner overlap (& bolting clamps)
* I must say...looks pretty clean...up in there :2guns:
SAM_9454 (1).JPG
 

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I used the wooden "spines" to trace the shape onto a sheet of FG
...& I was able to get all (4) "spine" pieces, out of the FG sheet that I originally made, for the floorboard
SAM_9468 (1).JPG
Cuttin' 'em out
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Again, I used a straight edge to help "guide" the long, straight cuts (makes a much prettier cut) ;)
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All cut out
SAM_9472 (1).JPG
I want to bond the FG panels to a 1/2" foam board core
...but, many adhesives aren't compatible with foam board, like Polyester resin (mainly due to the solvents)

* I've seen folks (on YouTube) bonding stuff to foam, using Contact Cement (like the kind used for countertops)
...but, they say, you can only apply it to the "other" material (not directly to the foam)
...&/then, you must let the cement dry, pretty well (letting most of the solvent evaporate) before assembly

So, I as a test, "glued" a piece of 1/2" foam to some scrap FG
SAM_9488 (1).JPG
After a couple of hours, I didn't notice any issues with the foam
...& the pieces seemed to be bonded together, pretty well
SAM_9490 (1).JPG
Even when prying up on the edge, the bond seemed to hold good
SAM_9492 (1).JPG
But, when I did a "flex test"
...the result was complete FAILURE :ack2:
SAM_9494 (1).JPG
 

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Next, I Googled "what adhesive is compatible with foam board?"
...& (1) of the results was Ultimate Gorilla Glue (available at Home Depot ~$13.00)
&/so
On my next tow, I stopped & picked some up :thumbsup:

I "glued" the same piece of foam
...to the same piece of FG
...&/also, another piece of scrap, to the other side

After a couple of hours, I tried prying, flexing & twisting the sandwich panel
...& couldn't even get any movement (which is good) :bannana:

Then, I wasa thinkin', let's try a brick test

So, I set up (2) bricks ~6" apart
...set the "test piece/sandwich panel" on top of 'em
...& then stood a brick up, on it, horizontally (the skinny way) on top of it

The panel still looks nice-n-straight ;)
SAM_9510 (1).JPG
Hmmm...how about (3) bricks (still looks ta be "unfazed")
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Let's try (4) bricks (yup, still looks good)
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OK, lets try (6) of 'em...wholy...crap :2guns:
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Close up, of sandwich panel with (6) bricks on it
SAM_9517 (1).JPG
When, I went to put a 7th brick on...everything collapsed :ack2:
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I thought the panel finally failed...but it didn't
...& I found it, to be, still intact :sifone:
SAM_9519 (1).JPG
 

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Nobody ever listens to me.

View attachment 165268

View attachment 165269

Yeah. Clecos are nice.
Hey WTR,

I guess I missed that episode :confused:
...but, I'd like to know more about 'em :thumbsup:

How about some experienced, personal use info, on using these little "guys"?

Seems like the "moving parts" (3-piece clamping tip) may get "gooped up" with resin...if used for holding (2) FG panels together, for bonding
...& "they" would have to stay in place (to maintain the clamping force) until the resin completely cured...making clean up...more difficult o_O

More info...more info...I want more info :unsure:
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Never used them on FG. You do have a point on the resin though.

On aluminum panels like the aileron in the photos. One panel was pre drilled from the factory. The other isn't. Line up one side and drill one through and add the cleco. Then move down the line keeping things lined up and tight. Once you have your parts looking like a porcupine you then remove a cleco and buck in rivets.

Doing anything FG we just use lots of clamps.


I posted that on the quick bits a while back so it got buried in that thread.
 

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Never used them on FG. You do have a point on the resin though.

On aluminum panels like the aileron in the photos. One panel was pre drilled from the factory. The other isn't. Line up one side and drill one through and add the cleco. Then move down the line keeping things lined up and tight. Once you have your parts looking like a porcupine you then remove a cleco and buck in rivets.

Doing anything FG we just use lots of clamps.


I posted that on the quick bits a while back so it got buried in that thread.
Whilst on a tow, I wasa thinkin' about Cleco's a bit more
...&/also, was thinkin' that they probably have a limited depth of clamping range (like maybe ~1/8")

IMO the 1/4" nuts & bolts seemed to work the best, in this situation ;)
...& "if" they get "gooped up" too much...they are cheap enough to be disposable (&/or recyclable) :thumbsup:

As I mentioned, the sheet metal screws would sometimes grab onto some of the FG fibers, in the adhesive strip & cause issues
...&/also, they weren't "great" at "drawing" pieces/panels together, as the screws sometimes "stripped out" the threads in the FG panel

&/then, to make things worser

They didn't even "hold" the panels together very well
...& were just basically alignment "pins" at that "point"

Notice on these rear junctions...the HUGE "gaps" o_O
SAM_9455 (1).JPG
Upper closer view of the HUGE "gap" on the right rear side

I was hoping that the 2 1/2" long deck screws, going into the 2 x 4's, would "draw" 'em together...more better :oops:
SAM_9456 (1).JPG
See how I was able to "draw" the panels together, in the front
...& look at how "tight" that Mo Fo is :sifone:
SAM_9458 (1).JPG
 
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