Rockwell 440cc and a kenbar streaker?

Thepartsguy

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Watching beat up builds YouTube videos of the Chevy v8 gokart I have some good ideas on how to build the box extension.
What size chain is that? Hopefully not 35.
Heck 40 might not be strong enough.

Im loving this. Too much engine and not enough kart!
The original sprocket on the sled was 35 chain. I’ll be using a 420 chain sprocket. That way I can keep the 420 chain axle sprocket.

And I’m shooting for 50-60mph top speed max. If it’s any faster then that the whole axle gets dropped for a bigger sprocket to slow it down some.

And about that driven hitting the engine mount. The driven sheaves open up quite a bit but the driven is offset so the belt straightens as the driven opens. That works out in my favor massively. And knowing this helps me set it up not to shred the belt instantly.
 

Thepartsguy

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Now to line up and get the engine mounted to the kart where I need it.

Remember to only lay some tacs for alignment incase stuff needs moved!

Edit: The mounts can have some trimmed off it to lower it a bit more they won’t set that high
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Thepartsguy

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Dang it bobby I didn’t get the thickness of the engine mounts correct so one mount is skinnier than the other mount. Ahh well

We got the height we needed and I’ll even trim some off so it sets just a tad lower. Of course I need to work on the surface of the steel plate a bit with a grinder to get it flat.

And a keen eye will notice the four rubber mounts. I cut the rubber off the bars and just stuck them under the blue plate.

I had two very heavy bridge iron bolts for the left side mount to the blue plate. I need to go to the hardware store to get two much heavier bolts for the right side engine mount to the blue plate. then I can clean up the mounts as needed shorten them a tad and weld them home.
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ShepherdHayes

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I’m so tired of grease and dirt that’s why I made a point that the only time I will deal with it anymore is to clean it off so I can have a non greasy part.


I have to do a general clean up of the driver/driven still and then mount the engine to something so I can hear it run.

After that there is nothing left. I have to yank the kart out of the back of the garage and start mounting the engine. Once it is mounted I’ll need plate steel to mount the driven.

Once the engine is mounted to the kart I’ll have to cut up the stock snowmobile exhaust and make a lot manifold or hunt marketplace for a stinger style expansion chamber.

Mounting the engine will be easy. The driven could be tough and the exhaust could be tough.
100% on cleaning it up first - nothing worse than working in 30-year-old sled gunk.

Take your time mocking up that driven jackshaft plate though. Sled clutches are super picky about center-to-center distance and offset, so a solid tie plate between the engine and driven is key if you don't want to blow belts. Hope you find a tuned expansion chamber for it, that 440 will sound insane!
 

Thepartsguy

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100% on cleaning it up first - nothing worse than working in 30-year-old sled gunk.

Take your time mocking up that driven jackshaft plate though. Sled clutches are super picky about center-to-center distance and offset, so a solid tie plate between the engine and driven is key if you don't want to blow belts. Hope you find a tuned expansion chamber for it, that 440 will sound insane!
I know all about the power and noise from crashing the old one I owned.

And I never had trouble with the belt and it wasn’t lined up very well. I think as long as I get it close the belt will be ok.

No expansion chamber just a log manifold hold on I’ll get an exact picture of the log manifold I’m copying.

edit: There is the log manifold I’m making for it picture stolen from YouTube
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Thepartsguy

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I cut the engine mounts down to drop the engine as close to the tire as I feel safe. I think the shorter mounts will help with rigidity and It looks cleaner being lower to the frame.

Now I have to clean the dust grime off the back of the frame set the engine were I want it permanently and I can weld it down. The bracing to the frame from the engine mounts should also be easy.
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Edwin Spangler

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I cut the engine mounts down to drop the engine as close to the tire as I feel safe. I think the shorter mounts will help with rigidity and It looks cleaner being lower to the frame.

Now I have to clean the dust grime off the back of the frame set the engine were I want it permanently and I can weld it down. The bracing to the frame from the engine mounts should also be easy.
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Looking good.

Lol I have a million of them little chunks of metal scattered ALLLL around my garage. Someone dun took ma magnit!
 

Sparkwizard

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Holy Cow! Widen the track width, lower the center of gravity or install a 5 point and a helmet! Be careful with this thing, Dr Frankenstein!
Seroiusly, Bud, use your Spidey senses and carry on!
 

Thepartsguy

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Holy Cow! Widen the track width, lower the center of gravity or install a 5 point and a helmet! Be careful with this thing, Dr Frankenstein!
Seroiusly, Bud, use your Spidey senses and carry on!
The kart itself is so low and heavy it’s not rolling unless I make it roll. The engine got dropped down as low as it can go before it hits the tire and moving the engine over is not an option.

The spidey senses are experiencing a bit of sensory overload but we will carry on.

I have to clean up the back of the frame grind the paint off and it’s getting welded solid.

I will not attempt to ride this without right foot discretion and a helmet.
 
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