Putting a Baja Reaction 150 together - first build

[tazzz]

hiya folks,


hope everyone is doing well and getting the wind in their...well wherever ya want it I spos...


Ive gotten myself a free frame, wheels, ect... It's a Baja Reaction 150 (unsure of the exact model)... the GY6 is gone, still has the double roller sprocket and disc brake though. Ive got wheels, pedals, steering wheel, crappy seats.


I've been reading and trying to learn all I can, this will be my first build, I've got some Chevy and Ford truck experience so I can turn a wrench, and generally if I can read and see what is being taught I've got it. my worries pop up with the sounds, ect, that come with experience but, this is also where I'm hoping ya'll can help.


So far, what I'm thinking is the following:


I have a Powerfist 6.5 212cc 4 stroke nonhemi (it's a pred/Honda clone), sitting in the box in the shop already.

from there...

https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/PA0008951907?srsltid=AfmBOopvcNTSaXYmHXLgDJKIq_7lm5A7fRxv44VUskDb7jBc9vIpJGRD

I'll add links in a later post if requested for specifics...


Billet flywheel and rod

series 30 torque converter

10' chain #420

a 72T driven axle sprocket

VM22 Mikuni style carb

22, it should it be 18 or 26? lb springs ?

Stage 1 exhaust header and muffler

Gasket and crank seal kit

Assembly lube, run for 20 mins and drain and fill with oil --- or the exact oil imvgoing to use regularly?


BOQNZN True CNC Billet Flywheel

Billet Aluminum Connecting Rod

Youxmoto 30 Series Torque Converter Kit

Cylinman VM22 Mikuni-Style Carburetor Kit

ARXUS Custom Stage 1 Exhaust Header & Muffler

NICHE 420 High Tensile 10-Foot Drive Chain

Emperoch Heavy Duty Chain Breaker Tool

WOTIAN Heavy Duty Full Gasket & Crank Seal Set

18 lb Heavy Duty Valve Springs (Pair)

Adjustable Steel Go-Kart Motor Mount Plate

Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube

5/16-24 x 2-1/4" Grade 8 Crankshaft Bolt

AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Small Engine Oil


Est total $550-600 CAD


There of course other things, seats, harnesses, lights, ect but those are all easily dealt with. Because the engine I have is recoil I'll be adding a motorcycle battery for lightening, music, winch.


I'm sure there is more but I'm forgetting right now and want to get the ball rolling.


Ahhh, btw, I'm Byron, 43, in BC Canada, not a fan of metric but will deal if I have to. And hoping to only lightly, but often, hurt myself with this...please help

Photos following post

 

[tazzz]

I did forget... I'm gonna need bushings and shocks front and rear... But this is she...
I'd really love to have her running for under $1000 (cad, which is about $700USD), less the motor which I already had.

 

[Hellion]

YEAH, POWERFIST!

All seems like a great plan and a free kart is icing on the cake. Carry on!

 

[Denny]

I would make the kart drivable and rideable than worry about hopping up the engine. But I’m strange like that.

 

[panchothedog]

Your frame ( the kart in general ) needs quite a bit of work. But for free it's really pretty good. The list of goodies for the engine is right on. When you open it up, remove the low oil sensor and the COMPLETE governor mechanism. That's why you put in the billet rod and flywheel. 22 or 26 lb. springs would be better. Unless your rear tires are
22" to 25" tall, a 72 tooth axle sprocket is too big. Not only for ground clearance, but you'll be too low geared. A 60 tooth with 18" to 20" tires (driven by a 10 tooth ) is the gold standard. Good acceleration and hill climbing ability, and good top speed.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

Consider that these engines only put out about an AMP of charging at idle and 3A at full speed. You cant run much electronics.

I have 7 LEDs running from a single coil 420. I dont have any dimming but they flicker at idle if the battery isnt charged.

 

[Hellion]

Consider that these engines only put out about an AMP of charging

Are you saying that the Canadian Powerfist 212 comes with a lighting coil/alternator? Man, that's nice.
The only way the same setup makes sense is on a lawn tractor where you’re mowing full throttle and the lights are as bright as they can get.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

Are you saying that the Canadian Powerfist 212 comes with a lighting coil/alternator? Man, that's nice.
The only way the same setup makes sense is on a lawn tractor where you’re mowing full throttle and the lights are as bright as they can get.

No, only assuming he was planning to add one since he was talking about electronics. I guess he could be planning to charge a yuge battery to use.

Oh wait he mentioned the flywheel.

Oh well. I missed that whole part!

 

[tazzz]

I would make the kart drivable and rideable than worry about hopping up the engine. But I’m strange like that.

Yes I've been mulling it over for a few months already, a lotta projects ongoing lol but I figure the frame is solid-I took the rear off to get at the shocks and remove the double roller sprocket-no cracks or worrisome kinks. So I figured I'm gonna zoom zoom (I know me) so going basic to just go and buy another set of parts....more money and then I gotta find somewhere to tuck the stock parts away...and my shop wants that less than me lol

 

[tazzz]

Your frame ( the kart in general ) needs quite a bit of work. But for free it's really pretty good. The list of goodies for the engine is right on. When you open it up, remove the low oil sensor and the COMPLETE governor mechanism. That's why you put in the billet rod and flywheel. 22 or 26 lb. springs would be better. Unless your rear tires are
22" to 25" tall, a 72 tooth axle sprocket is too big. Not only for ground clearance, but you'll be too low geared. A 60 tooth with 18" to 20" tires (driven by a 10 tooth ) is the gold standard. Good acceleration and hill climbing ability, and good top speed.

Yes, from what I understand so far you're on the money...
The governor will be a full removal, making sure to get both tiny...bolts, screws...tiny explosives if left within.
As I understand it the springs make sure she doesn't stay open when fully flying, is there such a thing as too heavy of springs? I'm thinking 22 vs 26. Is there a response difference or is it only for the safety factor?

It currently has 19s on the front and 22s on the back, that's why I was thinking a 72:10...someone also suggested using a smaller rotation to boost the gearing for better low end but I think mostly it'll be a field/backroad and ditch machine, I don't plan on doing much rock hugging or uneven climbing.

 

[tazzz]

Consider that these engines only put out about an AMP of charging at idle and 3A at full speed. You cant run much electronics.

I have 7 LEDs running from a single coil 420. I dont have any dimming but they flicker at idle if the battery isnt charged.

I was going to just stick a a couple 12v 7.2a, or maybe a small sealed Mazda car battery and call it a day. My light bars are both budget/small from I've seen racing around these parts. I figured a quad rocker switch, starting with a pair of 4" led directionals, then a pair of 6" floods, third rocker lights up the bars atop, a 15" and 12" for the rear, more for if stationary and looking for where I dropped xyz 2mins ago lol and the last to send power to a small winch and a cheap 30w 2plug inverter to charge flashlights and phones...

I think even with all the LEDs and the inverter Im going I'm under 500w.


Buuuut, again, I'm here for learn and get advice so if I sound overly confident or like I have an idea of what I'm doing...please, redirect me.

 

[tazzz]

Sorry for all the seperate replies, I just figured this way I don't get muddled and everyone gets a notification.

Yes I read some about a charging flywheel, it's been a bit but I think magnets... It was early in my reading so maybe I was t understanding completely but it seemed like something I could just fix with a battery and a few wires...

 

[panchothedog]

With 22s a 72 X 10 will work fine. If you already have the 18lb. springs, use them. You can get too heavy of valve springs, but up to 26lb. you are good. 32 and up ( which is for a highly modified, very high rpm ) engine, you need to install stainless steel valves.
The cheesy Chinese pot metal valves will snap off once you start to put too much spring pressure on them. Is the gear that drives the cam plastic or metal? Also, the easiest way to remove the governor, is to punch the shaft from the outside the engine.
Drive the whole thing out. Doesn't take much force. Then screw a 1/4" x1/2" x 28 into the whole where the shaft was. On the top of the engine ( where the governor control arm used to be ) use the same size bolt, only 3/4" or 1". The aluminum is soft enough that the bolt will cut it's own threads. A little blue thread locker and you are good to go.
I have done this on several predator engines with no problems. I assuming that your engine is quite similar.