Governor ADJUSTMENT (delete?)

[Sparkwizard]

By moving that cotter pin, you are giving that spring more room to move. Is that spring under tension when the pedal is at rest? Moving that pin and installing a longer spring shouls do what you want.

 

[Squiddy202]

By moving that cotter pin, you are giving that spring more room to move. Is that spring under tension when the pedal is at rest? Moving that pin and installing a longer spring shouls do what you want.

Spring is not under tension, could anyone recommend springs/spring rate specs?

 

[Hellion]

It looks like you have a solid wire throttle cable with Z bends on the end. This is only suitable for static engines (like garden tillers, snowblowers, etc) with a set-and-forget style throttle, the type that stays in one position at all times by friction.

You need a stranded cable or it’s just not going to work right.

 

[Squiddy202]

It looks like you have a solid wire throttle cable with Z bends on the end. This is only suitable for static engines (like garden tillers, snowblowers, etc) with a set-and-forget style throttle, the type that stays in one position at all times by friction.

You need a stranded cable or it’s just not going to work right.

I knew that at first but with a pinch bolt it works great.

 

[Hellion]

When you gonna add a FLOOR to your kart? The possibility exists that you may run over your own feet.

SAFETY THIRD!

 

[Sparkwizard]

Those solid wire cables are NOT made for recreational vehicles. They have a wire wrapped sheath that is designed to HOLD the cable from moving freely for tillers, mowers and other engines that need to maintain constant throttle for a long time. Not good for karts. Stop telling us it'll be fine when we tell you it is just wrong, OK?

 

[Squiddy202]

So I cannot find a good return spring, is there any way to not use that one

When you gonna add a FLOOR to your kart? The possibility exists that you may run over your own feet.

SAFETY THIRD!

I did, I must not have sent a good picture that shows that angle.

 

[Squiddy202]

Those solid wire cables are NOT made for recreational vehicles. They have a wire wrapped sheath that is designed to HOLD the cable from moving freely for tillers, mowers and other engines that need to maintain constant throttle for a long time. Not good for karts. Stop telling us it'll be fine when we tell you it is just wrong, OK?

Sorry, I will change that, but it is behind getting a good return spring, and brakes that work decently.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Lets get the basics.

Un attach the cable from the carb.

When you push the pedal all the way down, what stops it. Does the pedal itself hit a stop? or does the spring bind and the cotter pin bottoms out.

Now look at the cable sticking out. Make some marks if needed. Measure how much travel you have.

Compare that with how much travel the linkage has.

It sounds like your linkage has greater travel than the cable.
Move the attachment point closer to the pivot of the linkage.

Some times (caution) you can have some one hold the pedal all the way down and set the cable where the carb is all the way open. Then see if theres is enough travel in the system to reset the carb at idle.
If it doesn't go to complete closed then do not leave it like this.

The point is to have just a tad of slack at no throttle and the pedal should hit the stop just a tad before WOT. You dont want to rely on the carb to stop your foot.

When you quit monkeying around with the wrong parts, and get the right ones it will be much easier.

Also it takes good brakes to go fast!

Your getting there.

 

[Squiddy202]

Move the attachment point closer to the pivot of the linkage.

How? It seems like the fastener is stuck at a specific point on the lever.
Is that what the hole on the left/top of the pinch is for? Which would I use?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Show me a better pic.
Zoom out a bit.

 

[Squiddy202]

Show me a better pic.
Zoom out a bit.

Not the best as I still use mounted fuel tank, intake, and exhaust, but this is as good as I can probably get of the linkage. The lever goes under the intake and connects to the governor spring.

 

[Hellion]

You described a pinch fit, but the throttle cable should be secured on the throttle mechanism-lever with a wire swivel stop, just to be sure. This will permit a full(er) range of motion but you still need a stranded cable. The solid wire you are using is definitely part of your throttle woes.

Having double return springs is not uncommon. Some karts have a spring right at the pedal and another spring at the engine/carburetor. This is to ensure that the throttle immediately snaps back to idle when you let off.

Throttle cable lubrication is a thing as well, a weekly maintenance thing for motorcycles and such as there’s just so much moisture in the air and people ride in the rain or through wet environments (crossing creeks and streams) and soak their cables on a routine basis. Water wicks into every orifice and crevice and can even defy gravity via capillary action….

 

[Squiddy202]

You described a pinch fit, but the throttle cable should be secured on the throttle mechanism-lever with a wire swivel stop, just to be sure. This will permit a full(er) range of motion but you still need a stranded cable. The solid wire you are using is definitely part of your throttle woes.

I have a swivel, I described poorly. It is like predators in that respect. I am looking at getting a good cable. For now I want to see what I can do now. I might try to use old bike cables like someone (I think spark) mentioned.

 

[Sparkwizard]

Remove that spring, take it to Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Home Depot or your favorite big hardware store. Find their display of wire goods. Look for a spring that is longer but has thinner coils. That will give you more pedal and it won't bottom out on the spring so soon. A thinner spring can be compressed into a smaller space. Look for a kart or bicycle cable that is multistrand. It will have a teflon or nylon sleeve inside to reduce friction, so a heavy spring won't be as critical, anyway.