Polaris

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Ancient Egyptians worshiped cats. Just sayin.....
Um...I don't (usually) walk like an Egyptian :unsure: :innocent::devil2:

From the (official) Electrathon Rule Book 🤓

9 BRAKES and AXLES
1. At least two wheels must have brakes.
2. Brakes must be fitted to two wheels of the same axle. Either both front wheels or both rear wheels depending on vehicle construction.
3. The two brakes must have separate actuation cables. If both brakes are to be actuated by a single hand or foot lever then both cables should be attached to the lever.
4. Regenerative braking is permitted in addition to conventional brakes.
5. The vehicle must not roll if pushed while brakes are applied.
The vehicle must also be able to demonstrate a straight stop from a speed of 25 MPH in less than 40 feet.
6. Axles supported at both ends must have a diameter of at least 3/8"(10mm).
7. Axles supported only on one end must have a diameter at least ½"(12mm)
8. Safety wire or cotter pins must be used to secure cantilevered wheel axle nuts.
Nylon lock nuts and double nuts alone are not acceptable


We have Rotors on both front wheels
...& Calipers on both Spindles
...so, we got #1 & #2 "covered" :thumbsup:

As for #3, I made up a dual brake cable attachment "piece"
SAM_0579.JPG
...& (if ya remember) the brake cable mounting bracket also, has dual brake cable attachment positions :cheers2:
SAM_0599 (1).JPG
We upgraded to 1/2" axles to comply with #7
...& then, to comply with #8, I rounded up a couple of 1/2" Axle Pins (from a riding lawn mower)
SAM_0524 (1).JPG
After the paint dried & stuff, I installed the front wheels
...with some of the painted "hardware"
...& a couple of 1/2" Loc-Nuts :2guns:
SAM_0597 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Installed the rear wheel, with a 1/2" bolt
SAM_0595 (1).JPG
...& a Loc-Nut & "safety pin" :thumbsup:
SAM_0594 (1).JPG
I also, used an "inner nut", to not pre-load the bearings (as per Master Hack's advise) when tightening the rear wheel down ;)
SAM_0596 (1).JPG
 

Denny

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I’m worried that your upper cable brake is going to apply first and harder due to the fulcrum effect and stacking the cables. If the whole set up was horizontal instead of vertically stacked the brakes would apply evenly then. Just a suggestion.
 

Functional Artist

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I’m worried that your upper cable brake is going to apply first and harder due to the fulcrum effect and stacking the cables. If the whole set up was horizontal instead of vertically stacked the brakes would apply evenly then. Just a suggestion.
Hey Denny,

When I was thinkin' about this, I thought that "if" the cables were each attached to the brake pedal individually (one above the other) we would get that fulcrum effect
...but, then I thought, "if" both brake cables were kinda attached together
...& then, connected to the brake pedal (& on a pivot) they could/would both be pulled evenly ;)

* Does that make sense? :unsure:
 

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Speakin' of brake cables, I wasn't fond of, the way that the other end of the brake cable connected (on the Caliper end) :unsure:
SAM_0601 (1).JPG
The cable just goes under the edge of the washer
...& then, gets tightened down upon :huh:
SAM_0602 (1).JPG
So, rounded up a couple of 1/4" x 1" Allen head bolts (& Loc-Nuts)
SAM_0607 (1).JPG
Then, clamped 'em in the vise
...& drill a hole in 'em :cheers2:
SAM_0608 (1).JPG
Like this :cool:
SAM_0609 (1).JPG
Made sure the brake cable "ran thru" the hole 🤓
SAM_0614 (1).JPG
Then, stuck 'em in a piece of cardboard (holder)
...& painted 'em up :thumbsup:
SAM_0617.JPG
 

Denny

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I think upon brake application you will end up with a hard pull on one side. The upper cable is going to be pulled further out than the lower one. But if you flipped the whole thing horizontally it would pull them both evenly. Check out the math and geometry for yourself, don’t take my word for it. I may tease you but I still want to see you succeed and build the best machine possible.
 

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I may tease you but I still want to see you succeed and build the best machine possible.
Hey Denny,
Yup, I know :thumbsup:
...& think of you as a friend &/or collogue :cheers2:
I think upon brake application you will end up with a hard pull on one side. The upper cable is going to be pulled further out than the lower one. But if you flipped the whole thing horizontally it would pull them both evenly. Check out the math and geometry for yourself, don’t take my word for it.
Well, in situations like this I try-n-look at things from different perspectives (or in different ways) 🤓

So, "if" a guy was holding on to (2) ropes
...& had (1) in each hand
...he could pull on either rope, as hard as he wants, individually

But, "if" those (2) ropes were connected to, lets say a board with a hole in the middle of it
...& had a broomstick ran thru the hole
...& then, the guy was holding on to the broom stick, on each side of the board (with the (2) ropes attached to it)

Could he pull on either rope, harder than the other one? :unsure:
Whether he was holding it (the broom stick & board) Vertically or Horizontally?

* The dual brake cable connector, would be "the board"
...the bolt, would be "the broom stick"
...& the pedal, would be "the guy" ;)
 

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Hey Denny,
I was thinkin' about this more (with my morning coffee) :coffee:
...& tryin' ta "do the math" :geek:

So "if" both brake cables were attached directly to the brake pedal
...the brake pedals mounting bolt, would be the fulcrum :thumbsup:
&
"if" the cables were attached directly to the pedal vertically yup, I agree, the upper cable (the one furthest away from the fulcrum) would/could be pulled first or harder than the lower cable
...& also,
"if" the cables were connected horizontally, yup I agree again, the cables would/could be pulled upon equally (as they would both be the same distance from the fulcrum) :cheers2:

But, when I incorporated the "dual cable connector" (I think) the fulcrum moved from the brake pedal bolt, up to the cable connector bolt ;)
...& since that bolt is in the middle of the connector (I'ma thinkin' that) both cables are/have to be pulled on simultaneously, when the brake pedal is applied :sifone:
 

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So, rounded up a couple of 1/4" x 1" Allen head bolts
Um, I had & wanted to use (2) 1/4" x 1" Stainless Steel bolts for this application (so's I didn't have ta paint 'em) ;)
...but, had an issue when tryin' ta drill a hole in (1) of 'em :unsure:

This is about as far as I got :huh:
...after "killin'" (3) drill bits :furious2::mad2:
SAM_0637.JPG
So, anyone have any advice on drilling holes in Stainless Steel? :popcorn:
 

Master Hack

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Socket head cap screws are harder than grade 8 bolts. Not sure about stainless, but obviously thats prurdy tough stuff as well. Some grades of stainless are near impossible to drill. Use the "paint grade" bolts!
I've used carbide end mills in cases like this.
But that isn't an option if yer using a hand held drill motor.
 

Master Hack

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