BRIGGS VANGAURD 9HP THROTTLE SETUP

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rd1970

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panchothedog said:
When I expand the picture of the back of your kart, I get a good look at the driver clutch ( the one on the engine ). It is clearly a 40 series. They are different
enough that you can tell. The bar you are going to put across the back too tie the two sides together (good idea ) you should fabricate something to bolt on instead. If you weld it on it is going to be impossible to remove the engine. You don't want that. A couple of gusset like plates in the kart, and matching ones on the cross bar, drilled and bolted up flat would still give you a lot of strength and be removable when necessary.
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Well shoot I think I order the wrong belt for it then I went off the number on the belt that's on it and it came back to a 30series . On the cross bar I thought about that but I thought if I need to pull the engine I could take the shocks loose and drop the swingarm if that's what you call it down to pull it?
 
Thepartsguy

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rd1970 said:
Well shoot I think I order the wrong belt for it then I went off the number on the belt that's on it and it came back to a 30series . On the cross bar I thought about that but I thought if I need to pull the engine I could take the shocks loose and drop the swingarm if that's what you call it down to pull it?
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You will have to wait for the more knowledgeable than myself to chime in. On both of my 30 series there was yameige 669 18 30 belts when they showed up in the mail. I don’t believe 40 series belts are the same.
 
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panchothedog

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I suppose that would work, but you're going to be fighting 60 to 70 lbs falling down and then hanging on a 90 degree angle from the rest of the kart.
The 30series clutches and belts are almost flat on one side, 2.5 degrees and
18 degrees on the other. The 40series clutches and belts are 15 degrees on both sides, and are a bit wider. They are not interchangeable in any way. Hopefully you can return it and order the right one. Not to beat a dead horse,
but I would really re-think that rear bar of I were you. That is a nice big kart and
you may want to repower at some future date. Nothing wrong with your current
engine but if you want more there isn't much on hop up parts available for it.
 
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rd1970

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panchothedog said:
I suppose that would work, but you're going to be fighting 60 to 70 lbs falling down and then hanging on a 90 degree angle from the rest of the kart.
The 30series clutches and belts are almost flat on one side, 2.5 degrees and
18 degrees on the other. The 40series clutches and belts are 15 degrees on both sides, and are a bit wider. They are not interchangeable in any way. Hopefully you can return it and order the right one. Not to beat a dead horse,
but I would really re-think that rear bar of I were you. That is a nice big kart and
you may want to repower at some future date. Nothing wrong with your current
engine but if you want more there isn't much on hop up parts available for it.
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shoot that is the belt it had on it so now I got to look for new belt and try to send the one I got back I wonder how it was working with the wrong belt? Ill kick around the rear bar Idea not sure how ill go yet
 
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rd1970

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Denny said:
Make sure you buy Genuine Comet Belts!!! Or you’ll be buying more of them soon. Pancho is right you have a factory 40 series CVT.
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are the generic ones really that bad they are a third the cost of original it ?
 
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rd1970

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Started a new thread since it was getting away from the engine and moving towards a whole build

MANCO 606 REBUILD/UPGRADE

New to the forum started a thread in the engine section but it has moved away from just engine to complete build so I thought I should move it here. Bought a Manco 606 sorta running project. Bent broken and rigged up trying to get it straight, repaired and reliable with some upgrades maybe...
www.diygokarts.com
 
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rd1970

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Denny said:
Go Kart Supply has a very handy chart measure center to center distance and look it up in the chart. Sorry my best answer. I’ve had the yack fiber and grease belts last only minutes.
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ok sounds like I should of measured before I pulled the engine. It was moving with the 30 series belt on it I wonder if I could just get the same length belt as that one?
 
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rd1970 said:
ok sounds like I should of measured before I pulled the engine. It was moving with the 30 series belt on it I wonder if I could just get the same length belt as that one?
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the length isn’t the only thing. a 30 series belt will have a flat side to but up against the flat backing of the driver. I believe someone on here gave the belt angle of the other side so of the belt so it can ride up the pulley and shift into second. if you put a non standard belt on I’d think the pulley would carve it’s own angle into the belt. sending all the material it shaved off into the driver. meaning the whole driven/driver now comes off for a cleaning. and then you buy the right belt. You can have the correct belt for a 30 series put it on backward so the angle is against the flat backing plate and smoke the belt instantly while the whole system will never shift out of first. I know this due to having done it with a new $30 belt. $$$ lesson.
 
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rd1970

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Thepartsguy said:
the length isn’t the only thing. a 30 series belt will have a flat side to but up against the flat backing of the driver. I believe someone on here gave the belt angle of the other side so of the belt so it can ride up the pulley and shift into second. if you put a non standard belt on I’d think the pulley would carve it’s own angle into the belt. sending all the material it shaved off into the driver. meaning the whole driven/driver now comes off for a cleaning. and then you buy the right belt. You can have the correct belt for a 30 series put it on backward so the angle is against the flat backing plate and smoke the belt instantly while the whole system will never shift out of first. I know this due to having done it with a new $30 belt. $$$ lesson.
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But I was told this clutch is a 40 series torque convertor so I need a whole different belt. I was just going to use the old 30 series belt to get the length or would that not work?
 
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Denny said:
Be better off waiting until you get it all back together to measure it then. Do it once do it right
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what's the easiest way to change or install the belt do you have to pull the clutch off every time?
 
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You do not have to remove the clutches to change a belt. It’s not a bad idea though to for maintenance. You just simply walk the belt around the bigger driven pulley until it is off then the smaller one. It’s a breeze once you do it a few times to get used to it.
 
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Denny said:
You do not have to remove the clutches to change a belt. It’s not a bad idea though to for maintenance. You just simply walk the belt around the bigger driven pulley until it is off then the smaller one. It’s a breeze once you do it a few times to get used to it.
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That's how I do it on my sleds but I tried to do that with the belt that was on it and even with a pry bar could not get it off. Possibly since its the wrong belt?
 
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