Streaker kart gearing test success!

Thepartsguy

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That’s what I thought about the generator. Is yours a 1inch shaft? And what’s the mounting width? Thanks a ton for teaching an 8hp noob!
tractors or Tillers anything like that style of equipment is good. generators and any pump style of equipment not good. You really have to know what you wanna do and how you Intend to ride the kart before you build it. Once you buy parts and your stuck with bad gearing or parts that won’t jive it’s over.. all 8hp’s And some 5hp’s I have seen are 1” the 12hp I had was 1 1/4 milled to 1” to fit a clutch. 1” clutches I run are cheap with 14 teeth. that gearing Probably isn’t right for you at all. and 10t 1” clutches from Norman are about the cost of a predator. I advise against paying much for a usable 8hp. and the measurements are so close you just set the 8hp on the mount and eyeball grind all four slots out. the mounting pattern is close ebough I was able to grind it out on 3 karts. You can grind it out to fit a 8hp Briggs Tecumseh only. as the mont patter is close enough to the 5 to eyeball it. Just build a predator. that’s my go to now. Do’t go through all this crap like I did...

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Thepartsguy

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That’s what I thought about the generator. Is yours a 1inch shaft? And what’s the mounting width? Thanks a ton for teaching an 8hp noob!
Next up you said you wanted to learn to build engines later.. a used tiller 5hp sounds great till the 999 crank that‘s supposed to be in it measures 989 and is scrap... A predator out of the box is ready for a billet rod/flywheel.. makes it safe and that same block can make way more power then the 8hp’s I’m running. if I had a time machine I wouldn’t have any of those engines.. I would have a nice predator and if that predator made 10hp ungoverned I’d be ecstatic.DBDD85EB-6EB7-4921-ABD2-C2D4269C83E7.jpeg
 

panchothedog

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It doesn't take much to get 10 HP. out of a predator. MILD cam, 26 lb. springs,
stage one intake and exhaust ( header pipe, free flow air cleaner and jetted carb ) and you are there. Maybe even a tad more. That's assuming governor deleted and I won't build one without the ARC rod and flywheel. BTW yesterday
I picked up one of their new 224cc engines. It was on sale for $169, and here in
people's republic of California no more new gas engine sales next year, I just gave in to temptation. Didn't need it but figured I would never get it any cheaper and someday it will make a nice build.
 

Thepartsguy

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It doesn't take much to get 10 HP. out of a predator. MILD cam, 26 lb. springs,
stage one intake and exhaust ( header pipe, free flow air cleaner and jetted carb ) and you are there. Maybe even a tad more. That's assuming governor deleted and I won't build one without the ARC rod and flywheel. BTW yesterday
I picked up one of their new 224cc engines. It was on sale for $169, and here in
people's republic of California no more new gas engine sales next year, I just gave in to temptation. Didn't need it but figured I would never get it any cheaper and someday it will make a nice build.
they Just opened a HF not far from here. I’m going down soon to check out what they have. I thought maybe a box stock 12hp ghost.
 

BrownStainRacing

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It doesn't take much to get 10 HP. out of a predator. MILD cam, 26 lb. springs,
stage one intake and exhaust ( header pipe, free flow air cleaner and jetted carb ) and you are there. Maybe even a tad more. That's assuming governor deleted and I won't build one without the ARC rod and flywheel. BTW yesterday
I picked up one of their new 224cc engines. It was on sale for $169, and here in
people's republic of California no more new gas engine sales next year, I just gave in to temptation. Didn't need it but figured I would never get it any cheaper and someday it will make a nice build.
Congrats on your new purchase, you'll gonna love it!!!!
There's a very noticeable increase in low rpm torq, compared to ANY outta the box 212, including the tilly 212r (black tins). The block itself is a ducar block and has alot more areas reinforced, then the regular predator 212's.
Go around and double check the torq specs for rod bolts, side cover, flywheel nut, head bolts, and valve lash. I've taking 3 new, outta the box, and they all were not to torq spec.
They come with 8.7:1-8.8:1 compression ratio. swap head gasket out for a .018"- .027" head gasket will bump it up to 9.3:1 CR. Piston to head clearance will be .006"-.011". The head has bigger intake and exhaust runners. The stock muffler pipe I.D. is bigger then any 212 stock muffler.
Add a $40 flywheel from a tilly 212r, 22 lbs valve springs, 1.3:1 stamped steel rockers, set ignition timing to 28*, set governor to 5300 rpm, rejet the stock carb. This is a very easy and cheap 8hp, 14 ft/lbs torq build with stock airbox, stock muffler and governored. Don't be afraid of that plastic cam gear. It's a different camshaft then any other stock 196, 212 cam that I've come across.
I don't mean to high jack the thread, jus wanted to get those loose bolts mentioned.
 

BrownStainRacing

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they Just opened a HF not far from here. I’m going down soon to check out what they have. I thought maybe a box stock 12hp ghost.
Imho, there's alot better 212's out there. That cast iron flywheel, stock rod, and rpm limited coil, doesn't add up to that price tag.
The ducar 212 is a lil power house outta the box, comes governord at 5300 rpm and a quality flywheel.
 

BaconBitRacing

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Next up you said you wanted to learn to build engines later.. a used tiller 5hp sounds great till the 999 crank that‘s supposed to be in it measures 989 and is scrap... A predator out of the box is ready for a billet rod/flywheel.. makes it safe and that same block can make way more power then the 8hp’s I’m running. if I had a time machine I wouldn’t have any of those engines.. I would have a nice predator and if that predator made 10hp ungoverned I’d be ecstatic.View attachment 136584
Alright, so I‘m going to follow your advice on getting a predator. My question is now (at the risk of pestering) can I just mount a TC right on there? Or does it have issues with alignment? I recall something you said about that. Thanks, you’ve saved me from a whole world of hurt!
 

BaconBitRacing

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You can bolt a 30 series TAV II right on there! Might have to get correct bolts I think?
My question was primarily about the streaker’s alignment with the engine plate. I might be wrong, but I think that because of all the predators Comet put metric hardware in now.
 

Thepartsguy

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Why does it always have to be so complicated?
Hope this make sense... Centrifugal clutch in the first picture is Installed sprocket side facing away from the engine. this Is non torque converter compatible. second picture shows clutch installed sprocket side facing engine. this way is torque converter compatible.. torque Converter sprockets ride flush to the engine case. The sprocket on the clutch in the first picture does not ride flush to the engine case. The clutch in the second picture does ride flush to the engine case.
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BaconBitRacing

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Hope this make sense... Centrifugal clutch in the first picture is Installed sprocket side facing away from the engine. this Is non torque converter compatible. second picture shows clutch installed sprocket side facing engine. this way is torque converter compatible.. torque Converter sprockets ride flush to the engine case. The sprocket on the clutch in the first picture does not ride flush to the engine case. The clutch in the second picture does ride flush to the engine case.
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Makes total sense, thanks. About now I’m really happy I have a scrap #35 clutch to test alignment on my future predator before I spend for a TC. You’ve helped me out a lot, thanks for stopping me from stupid decisions!
 

Thepartsguy

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You have a kart that’s bolt on engine and go you said? you would need a mock up engine and clutch to just eyeball weather the clutch is mounted inboard/outboard.. now you can move that live axle sprocket without moving your brake system? That would mean inboard the clutch like picture two and move the axle sprocket over and everything is good. If your live axle sprocket cannot be moved and your clutch is outboard you would have some work ahead.
 

BaconBitRacing

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Yep. If I have to move my sprocket, I’m in trouble. I’ll get pictures when I can, but it has a brake band. The whole thing is in good condition. It has a brake rod and partial throttle rod. Do I just pick up some bike brake cable to go from rod to engine throttle? And by partial I mean it goes down half the kart.
 

Thepartsguy

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Yep. If I have to move my sprocket, I’m in trouble. I’ll get pictures when I can, but it has a brake band. The whole thing is in good condition. It has a brake rod and partial throttle rod. Do I just pick up some bike brake cable to go from rod to engine throttle? And by partial I mean it goes down half the kart.
I knew it! The brake band got me to! Ahhh like they didn’t want torque converters put on them...
 

BaconBitRacing

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:mad2: Darn KenBar! I’ve already got a clutch so when I pick up my engine I’ll test. Maybe I’ll get lucky, but you know how it goes.:furious2:
 

Thepartsguy

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Yep. If I have to move my sprocket, I’m in trouble. I’ll get pictures when I can, but it has a brake band. The whole thing is in good condition. It has a brake rod and partial throttle rod. Do I just pick up some bike brake cable to go from rod to engine throttle? And by partial I mean it goes down half the kart.
ehh it could be done better on my part but anyway. you would youtube one of the many throttle installs on the engine side. it is very easy and cables are $12 then so Your cable isn’t 3 miles long you Hook it to the rod running half the front of the kart.
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