Manco Dingo Wheels

[ezcome-ezgo]

Spacer is just a tube right? Or is it hex bored inside too?

 

[chevy042]

I don't understand why...you want to slide the hubs down the axle ?...put a sprocket in the middle, and one hub at each end.....................and your done !

Da redflash

I don’t think I’m explaining this well enough.

 

[MWKarter]

Makes sense to me.

 

[chevy042]

Spacer is just a tube right? Or is it hex bored inside too?

Yes the spacer is essentially a tube. It’s not a hex bore. The issue isn’t really the spacers though. It’s the hub itself. That’s why I’m looking for a Manco 8” hex wheel, because the new hubs designed for use with hex axles are not designed correctly for Mancos.

If anyone has any or knows where I could find one or two, please let me know.

 

[Denny]

You can this to fix your problem. Make the proper sized spacer to take up that gap and put the hubs on and run it as is. It will work fine and still keep the sprocket and brake disk lined up. Or you could just buy a shorter axle. (May be cheaper.)

 

[MWKarter]

You could possibly use a rotary burr to enlarge the hole at the stud plate so that it clears the 7/8 hex bore?

 

[madprofessor]

Edit- I realize I can just change out the whole axle, but I really want to avoid that because I already purchased and installed a new axle, sprocket, brake disk, and wheel bearings - all with 7/8” hex bores

This is not a recommendation, just the way I usually do things...................When faced with a custom adaptation for which there will be no replacement parts in the future (it's custom), I do a cost and time and hard-effort analysis (including the future) compared to cost and time and little-effort to buy new parts. In your shoes, my direction would be to learn about craigslist (I know very little about it myself) and ebay to sell off all of the existing rear end components you have, and start over on the rear end with a 1" diameter "Flexpruf" or similar round axle and the multitude of easily found parts to put on it.
Do be mindful of your outside axle bearings-to-wheel-hubs distance. The longer the distance, the more likely to warp the axle.

 

[Gl1tch_]

Hi all,

I’m in desperate need of at least one Manco 8” wheel with 7/8” hex hub for my son’s go kart. One of the rear wheels has a pretty good wobble to it. I do know these are obviously no longer made and have read previous posts on this forum regarding the same issue.

I’ve been restoring my son’s kart for the last two months and this is my only hold up. I did as others suggested and bought the 7/8” hex wheel hubs on both BMI and gokartsupply.com and also new wheels with the 4 on 4 pattern to fit the new hubs, but neither hubs from either company work on the Dingo axle. The hex bore on the new hubs fits, but the round plate that the wheel studs are attached to is welded in the wrong spot on the hex sleeve. They’re mounted on the ends of the hex sleeve instead of being welded to the middle, which obviously changes the offset. Because of this, the plate also prevents the hub from sliding over the axle any farther, creating about an inch gap between the hub and factory spacers on the axle.

If anyone has a used rear wheel, a set of rear wheels, or knows of somewhere to find them, I would be extremely grateful. The original part number is 3552 and again, it’s an 8” wheel, 7” wide with a 7/8” hex bore hub.
When I was restoring an old car, I used tools like VIN checkers to verify the authenticity of parts and learn more about the vehicle’s history. You could try something similar for your Dingo; sites like FaxVIN https://www.faxvin.com/vin-check are great for cars and might give you ideas for where to find detailed info or sellers specializing in rare parts.
Thank you!!

Facebook groups or forums dedicated to go-kart restoration often have members with spare parts or leads on hard-to-find components. It might be worth posting there with your detailed description.