Manco Dingo Wheels

[chevy042]

Hi all,

I’m in desperate need of at least one Manco 8” wheel with 7/8” hex hub for my son’s go kart. One of the rear wheels has a pretty good wobble to it. I do know these are obviously no longer made and have read previous posts on this forum regarding the same issue.

I’ve been restoring my son’s kart for the last two months and this is my only hold up. I did as others suggested and bought the 7/8” hex wheel hubs on both BMI and gokartsupply.com and also new wheels with the 4 on 4 pattern to fit the new hubs, but neither hubs from either company work on the Dingo axle. The hex bore on the new hubs fits, but the round plate that the wheel studs are attached to is welded in the wrong spot on the hex sleeve. They’re mounted on the ends of the hex sleeve instead of being welded to the middle, which obviously changes the offset. Because of this, the plate also prevents the hub from sliding over the axle any farther, creating about an inch gap between the hub and factory spacers on the axle.

If anyone has a used rear wheel, a set of rear wheels, or knows of somewhere to find them, I would be extremely grateful. The original part number is 3552 and again, it’s an 8” wheel, 7” wide with a 7/8” hex bore hub.

Thank you!!

 

[chevy042]

Edit- I realize I can just change out the whole axle, but I really want to avoid that because I already purchased and installed a new axle, sprocket, brake disk, and wheel bearings - all with 7/8” hex bores because when I found the new hex hubs others have mentioned, I assumed they would work since the pictures on BMI and gokartsupply show the stud plates as being welded to the middle of the hub sleeve vice the ends.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

So you are saying these hubs will not fit?

4 x 4 Wheel Hub (Hex Bore) Manco | K260052

www.bmikarts.com

 

[chevy042]

So you are saying these hubs will not fit?

4 x 4 Wheel Hub (Hex Bore) Manco | K260052

www.bmikarts.com

Correct. If they were as the picture shows, they would fit. Unfortunately the round plate the wheel studs are attached to is welded to the end of the hub instead of the middle, preventing the wheel hubs from being slid onto the axle as far as they need to go.

I will try and post a picture of what I received.

 

[chevy042]

Correct. If they were as the picture shows, they would fit. Unfortunately the round plate the wheel studs are attached to is welded to the end of the hub instead of the middle, preventing the wheel hubs from being slid onto the axle as far as they need to go.

I will try and post a picture of what I received.

I called both BMI and gokartsupply to see if it was a manufacturing issue, and both were nice enough to check the rest of their stock with no luck. They’re all being received manufactured as I described. BMI did state they would try to update the photo online to avoid issues in the future.

 

[chevy042]

 

[chevy042]

As you can see in the pictures, the stud plate is welded to the end of the hex hub instead of the middle, and it also prevents the hub from sliding all the way onto the axle.

 

[chevy042]

This is as far as you can slide each hub on. There is about an inch gap between the hub and the stock axle spacer. Aside from all that, the hubs themselves are supposed to be 3” in length, as both websites state and as the original wheels are, but both sets I received measure about 2-1/4”.

If they were 3” as they should be, it would probably solve the gap issue but the wheel offset would still be about 2-3” too wide on each side due to where the wheel hub’s stud plate is welded.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

The non-hex axle is threaded? Can you not just put a washer and nut on it?

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

What you have is Part Number: MAN8LAH-78Hex What you need is Part Number: K260052

 

[chevy042]

The non-hex axle is threaded? Can you not just put a washer and nut on it?

No that’s just a picture of the wheel hub on my axle.
My axle is a 7/8” hex axle. The wheel hub is also 7/8” hex. The threaded part you see is the axle coming through the hub.

Yes I could put a washer and nut on it, but still have about an inch of gap on both sides of the axle between the hub and spacer on the axle. Plus I would still have the offset issue being 2-3” too wide on both sides.

 

[chevy042]

What you have is Part Number: MAN8LAH-78Hex What you need is Part Number: K260052

K260052 is for a 1” hex axle, not a 7/8”.

 

[chevy042]

To explain a different way, if I had the 7/8” hex axle removed and in my hand bare of all axle components, I would be able to install one original Manco hex wheel onto the axle and slide it from one end of the axle to the other. The original wheels are just open hex wheels.

If I tried that same thing with the hubs I received from both companies, I would be unable to do so as they stop on the axle as soon as the wheel stud plate reaches the bottom of the threads on the axle. Because of this, the new wheel hubs do not slide onto the axle as far as they should. On top of that, the hex part of the wheel hub is 2-1/4” in length vice 3” in length as their website states, and the offset is way off due to the stud plate being welded onto the hub at the end instead of the middle.

When talking with both companies, they confirmed this is the correct part number but the way they are made seems to be no longer as pictured on the website - whether it be a supply chain issue or design flaw.

In any case, I am back to trying to locate at least one single original Manco 7/8” hex wheel as one of mine has a bad wobble.

 

[MWKarter]

Do you have a welding shop nearby? They would possibly have a lathe to machine the weld off, remove the stud plate, turn down the hub to establish a locating shoulder, bore out the stud plate to match the turned down hub shaft, weld the plate back on. Might cost a little bit.

 

[chevy042]

Do you have a welding shop nearby? They would possibly have a lathe to machine the weld off, remove the stud plate, turn down the hub to establish a locating shoulder, bore out the stud plate to match the turned down hub shaft, weld the plate back on. Might cost a little bit.

I thought about that as well, but yes it would probably cost near what I would spend just converting to a round axle. I will call around though if I can’t find anyone on here willing to part with a wheel.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

No that’s just a picture of the wheel hub on my axle.
My axle is a 7/8” hex axle. The wheel hub is also 7/8” hex. The threaded part you see is the axle coming through the hub.

Yes I could put a washer and nut on it, but still have about an inch of gap on both sides of the axle between the hub and spacer on the axle. Plus I would still have the offset issue being 2-3” too wide on both sides.

If the hub is locked on with a nut, does the spacer matter? You could compensate for some of the offset with wheel offset. Does it matter if the rear end is a little wider?

 

[MWKarter]

Hi all,

I’m in desperate need of at least one Manco 8” wheel with 7/8” hex hub for my son’s go kart. One of the rear wheels has a pretty good wobble to it. I do know these are obviously no longer made and have read previous posts on this forum regarding the same issue.

I’ve been restoring my son’s kart for the last two months and this is my only hold up. I did as others suggested and bought the 7/8” hex wheel hubs on both BMI and gokartsupply.com and also new wheels with the 4 on 4 pattern to fit the new hubs, but neither hubs from either company work on the Dingo axle. The hex bore on the new hubs fits, but the round plate that the wheel studs are attached to is welded in the wrong spot on the hex sleeve. They’re mounted on the ends of the hex sleeve instead of being welded to the middle, which obviously changes the offset. Because of this, the plate also prevents the hub from sliding over the axle any farther, creating about an inch gap between the hub and factory spacers on the axle.

If anyone has a used rear wheel, a set of rear wheels, or knows of somewhere to find them, I would be extremely grateful. The original part number is 3552 and again, it’s an 8” wheel, 7” wide with a 7/8” hex bore hub.

Thank you!!

Does the wheel come apart into two halves? If so, the two halves may just need to be loosened and adjusted?

 

[chevy042]

If the hub is locked on with a nut, does the spacer matter? You could compensate for some of the offset with wheel offset. Does it matter if the rear end is a little wider?

The nut would secure the hub/wheel to the axle, but I would have 2” total of free play for the axle to slide back and forth on. The only thing at that point that would prevent the left/right movement of the axle would be the sprocket and brake rotor.

At the end of the day, sure I could put two lock rings on either end of the axle to prevent this free play, but the offset of the wheel is a little ridiculous. Runnable, yes. But it does look a bit obnoxious with two already large rear tires sticking that far out of the kart, especially compared to the front wheels.

I agree that would make the kart at least operational, but after spending the last two months restoring it, I don’t want to rig something up just to get it running. Everything else has been restored or replaced with original or like items.

 

[chevy042]

Does the wheel come apart into two halves? If so, the two halves may just need to be loosened and adjusted?

Are you referring to the original wheels I’m looking for? If so, no they are solid rims and do not separate.

 

[redflash]

I don't understand why...you want to slide the hubs down the axle ?...put a sprocket in the middle, and one hub at each end.....................and your done !

Da redflash