bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
The title says it all. Please and thank you.
Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?Well, I believe Sid is on a "personal leave"
...so, I'd PM Landuse, he should be able to unlock it for you
It may take a minute for him to respond
...he is on the other side of the globe, don't cha know
Hey Bob,Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?
My plan is to use a 4 wire rectifier / regulator. One of the AC inputs comes from the output wire of the stator. The stator lone output wire delivers AC. The stator is “grounded” to the block, so I plan on having the other AC input terminal on the R/R also grounded to the block.
The DC+ output goes to the +terminal of the battery. The DC- output does to the -terminal on the battery.
To isolate the AC and DC, the battery will not be grounded to the frame and all accessories will have “ground” wires going back to the -terminal on the battery.
The charging system is a 36 watt system. I wanted to use this rectifier. The description says this one puts out enough voltage to charge the battery, but others just say 12V.
thanks
Bob
a full wave rectifier doesn't chop at all.. it makes use of both halves of the wave..Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?
My plan is to use a 4 wire rectifier / regulator. One of the AC inputs comes from the output wire of the stator. The stator lone output wire delivers AC. The stator is “grounded” to the block, so I plan on having the other AC input terminal on the R/R also grounded to the block.
The DC+ output goes to the +terminal of the battery. The DC- output does to the -terminal on the battery.
To isolate the AC and DC, the battery will not be grounded to the frame and all accessories will have “ground” wires going back to the -terminal on the battery.
The charging system is a 36 watt system. I wanted to use this rectifier. The description says this one puts out enough voltage to charge the battery, but others just say 12V.
thanks
Bob
Thanks. It makes sense. I didn’t think about the starter motor being “case” grounded. It’s been a while since I had it out to look at it.a full wave rectifier doesn't chop at all.. it makes use of both halves of the wave..
Anyways,
to answer your question: DEPENDS
if it's vehicle stuff (car, motorbike, boat etc) it's usually meant to charge a battery, hence it is NOT 12V but -depending on input voltage- somewhere between 12.5 and 14V usually
input voltage is a matter of rpms on most generators.
BUT be sure to pick the right rectifier/regulator..
some expect three phases, some are happy with just two (what I suspect you are looking to get)
.. some want 70V input and some are happy with just 45...
ideally you pick one that's MADE for a specific generator coil
And NO you cannot use the block as your AC neutral, not if you are planning to use the same block as the 12V negative terminal that is..
the resulting electrical noise will pop whatever you are trying to power (including a battery on very short order)
And here's the thing.... if you are running "ground" wires to the battery you will run into an issue as soon as you are planning to add electric start to the mix.
All starter motors I know are case grounded DC... and thus create a direct connection between the block and the battery negative terminal.
So rather insulate the coil from the block and run two AC wires to the regulator.. much easier, much less wiring, much less troubles
'sid