Help me unlock my Predator Lighting Coil Thread please

[bob58o]

The title says it all. Please and thank you.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Open the world so that Bob may be heard.

 

[bob58o]

I was excited and wanted to shout it from the top of a mountain, but I didn’t have a mountain. I had a gokart forum and a keyboard.

 

[Functional Artist]

Well, I believe Sid is on a "personal leave"
...so, I'd PM Landuse, he should be able to unlock it for you

It may take a minute for him to respond
...he is on the other side of the globe, don't cha know

 

[bob58o]

Thanks I’ll PM him!

 

[bob58o]

Well, I believe Sid is on a "personal leave"
...so, I'd PM Landuse, he should be able to unlock it for you

It may take a minute for him to respond
...he is on the other side of the globe, don't cha know

Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?
My plan is to use a 4 wire rectifier / regulator. One of the AC inputs comes from the output wire of the stator. The stator lone output wire delivers AC. The stator is “grounded” to the block, so I plan on having the other AC input terminal on the R/R also grounded to the block.
The DC+ output goes to the +terminal of the battery. The DC- output does to the -terminal on the battery.
To isolate the AC and DC, the battery will not be grounded to the frame and all accessories will have “ground” wires going back to the -terminal on the battery.
The charging system is a 36 watt system. I wanted to use this rectifier. The description says this one puts out enough voltage to charge the battery, but others just say 12V.

thanks
Bob

 

[bob58o]

Will this be the type of Rectifier / Regulator I want?



This is a brand new Voltage Regulator Rectifier fit for motorcycle and boat motors, DIY engines and so on. The rectifier outputs about DC14.5 voltage can charge for 12v lead acid battery and supply power for 12v bulb and so on. The rectifier comes with free wire adapter connect cable.

Specifications:
Fit 12V Battery, Bulb, Light and so on
Color Available: Black
AC Input Voltage: 20-60V
Unloading Output Voltage (Idling): 12.5~13v±0.5v
Charging Output Current: 0 - 4A
With Battery Charging Voltage:14~14.6±0.5V
Working Temperature: -20℃to 60℃
Cable Wire: Red to Battery +, Green to Battery -, Yellow and Pink AC input, connect to magneto coil.

Rectifier 4 Wires Voltage Regulator Replacement for Boat Motor Mercury ATV GY6 50 150cc Scooter Moped JCL NST TAOTAO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZI7U8R...abc_7M38V894VVWDYZS90A6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Functional Artist]

Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?
My plan is to use a 4 wire rectifier / regulator. One of the AC inputs comes from the output wire of the stator. The stator lone output wire delivers AC. The stator is “grounded” to the block, so I plan on having the other AC input terminal on the R/R also grounded to the block.
The DC+ output goes to the +terminal of the battery. The DC- output does to the -terminal on the battery.
To isolate the AC and DC, the battery will not be grounded to the frame and all accessories will have “ground” wires going back to the -terminal on the battery.
The charging system is a 36 watt system. I wanted to use this rectifier. The description says this one puts out enough voltage to charge the battery, but others just say 12V.

thanks
Bob

Hey Bob,
I'm flattered
...but, I'm not really "the" electric guy

It may seem that way 'cause all of my karts are electric powered
...but, to be honest I'm just learnin' about this stuff, as I go

From what I understand, ya know how an AC electrical "wave" is shown as "a line" going back & forth (above & below) a horizontal line on one of those scope things
Well, a rectifier kinda "chops" 1/2 of the AC wave off so ya only get the DC part of it

I would say, if it will work/power a motorcycle (to charge the battery & power a few lights) then IMO it should work in your situation
...but, don't quote me on it

 

[EpsilonZero]

That rectifier should work fine as long as your AC voltage input stays in range.

 

[itsid]

Well since you are the electric guy. Does 12V full wave rectifier / regulator mean actual 12V (as to power accessories) or more of a “nominal 12V” to charge a 12V battery?
My plan is to use a 4 wire rectifier / regulator. One of the AC inputs comes from the output wire of the stator. The stator lone output wire delivers AC. The stator is “grounded” to the block, so I plan on having the other AC input terminal on the R/R also grounded to the block.
The DC+ output goes to the +terminal of the battery. The DC- output does to the -terminal on the battery.
To isolate the AC and DC, the battery will not be grounded to the frame and all accessories will have “ground” wires going back to the -terminal on the battery.
The charging system is a 36 watt system. I wanted to use this rectifier. The description says this one puts out enough voltage to charge the battery, but others just say 12V.

thanks
Bob

a full wave rectifier doesn't chop at all.. it makes use of both halves of the wave..
Anyways,
to answer your question: DEPENDS
if it's vehicle stuff (car, motorbike, boat etc) it's usually meant to charge a battery, hence it is NOT 12V but -depending on input voltage- somewhere between 12.5 and 14V usually
input voltage is a matter of rpms on most generators.
BUT be sure to pick the right rectifier/regulator..
some expect three phases, some are happy with just two (what I suspect you are looking to get)
.. some want 70V input and some are happy with just 45...
ideally you pick one that's MADE for a specific generator coil

And NO you cannot use the block as your AC neutral, not if you are planning to use the same block as the 12V negative terminal that is..
the resulting electrical noise will pop whatever you are trying to power (including a battery on very short order)
And here's the thing.... if you are running "ground" wires to the battery you will run into an issue as soon as you are planning to add electric start to the mix.
All starter motors I know are case grounded DC... and thus create a direct connection between the block and the battery negative terminal.

So rather insulate the coil from the block and run two AC wires to the regulator.. much easier, much less wiring, much less troubles

'sid

 

[Bansil]

Welcome back buddy

Sorry for hijack OP

 

[bob58o]

a full wave rectifier doesn't chop at all.. it makes use of both halves of the wave..
Anyways,
to answer your question: DEPENDS
if it's vehicle stuff (car, motorbike, boat etc) it's usually meant to charge a battery, hence it is NOT 12V but -depending on input voltage- somewhere between 12.5 and 14V usually
input voltage is a matter of rpms on most generators.
BUT be sure to pick the right rectifier/regulator..
some expect three phases, some are happy with just two (what I suspect you are looking to get)
.. some want 70V input and some are happy with just 45...
ideally you pick one that's MADE for a specific generator coil

And NO you cannot use the block as your AC neutral, not if you are planning to use the same block as the 12V negative terminal that is..
the resulting electrical noise will pop whatever you are trying to power (including a battery on very short order)
And here's the thing.... if you are running "ground" wires to the battery you will run into an issue as soon as you are planning to add electric start to the mix.
All starter motors I know are case grounded DC... and thus create a direct connection between the block and the battery negative terminal.

So rather insulate the coil from the block and run two AC wires to the regulator.. much easier, much less wiring, much less troubles

'sid

Thanks. It makes sense. I didn’t think about the starter motor being “case” grounded. It’s been a while since I had it out to look at it.

Cutting and/or unwinding the coil to access the the “other end” is something I have been trying to avoid. Literally For Years.

I’ll have to go back and review my thread and look up part numbers to see if this stator ever used a rectifier/ regulator. I’m not sure how this stator was originally used. Was it intended to only deliver AC (like 30V RMS @3600 RPM)? To power lights?

I have had everything hooked up without a regulator. I was just using a diode for half wave rectification. In the tests (I’ll have to check to see how I had everything wired) would I still have been using the block for AC neutral (due to the design of the coil) and the block as the DC ground if the starter motor is “case” grounded?

I tested voltage across the battery while charging through the diode with an 18 watt light and then again with the same light plus a 1 amp fuel pump. With both accessories running, the voltage remains safe up until about 4k rpm. I want to turn the engine faster so I want to use a regulator. Battery was at 13.55 Volts to start with. Red line shows just the light running. Blue line shows voltage across the battery vs RPM with both light and fuel pump running while charging through the diode.

Every Kohler rectifier / regulator I see seems to want 2 AC inputs and has a single DC* output. This seems to make sense if the Regulator and Starter Motor are “case” grounded. Don’t make sense if trying to use a stator with a one wire AC output.