2 stroke vs 4 stroke CVT ratings

[karl]

In the latest video, the owner or at least manager of MaxTorque stated that the Comet 30 series was designed specifically for mini bikes, do to the tapered belt design, so it's not really intended for go karts.

He's just irritated cause he is stuck with 15,000 torque converters and cant get rid of em, everyone is buying $60 TAV2 knockoffs

 

[itsid]

hehe..
Nah, Jim's indeed not completely wrong on that statement.

A series 20 is indeed the "better choice" for a go kart,
with the symmetric belt it offers a tad more contact surface which in turn is able to handle the torque a slightly bit better.

And Comet themselves marketed the series 30 indeed exclusively for minibikes first
(with that flimsy pressed steel back plate originally)
but yes, properly geared it still works well on a go kart.
No need to step up to a series 40 really

IDK How many TCs Jim has in stock.. I doubt it's 15k tbh...
but truth is: he never gave any bad or ill advice (to me or anyone I know at least)..
to me he never even said anything that led me to believe he's trying to sell something.
Frankly he always pointed me in the cheapest viable direction.

I can only assume he's not a huge fan of cheap chinese stuff chewing away on his income
(if that's even the case)
And while the Maxtorque TC is fully compatible with the series 20,
he actually pointed me to comet spare parts once, instead of maxtorques...
only briefly mentioning that
if all else fails he has what'd be needed and can supply MT spares to fix the rotten series 20.

So...
please, don't make him look bad.. he's indeed a very nice and helpfull person.
even when there's no foreseeable profit to be made.

'sid

 

[Kartorbust]

I have no intentions of making him look bad, just wanted to verify what he was saying was correct, as some people who see the video in the future might take it the wrong way possibly.

 

[Kartorbust]

So I'll be ordering a 94c this weekend, just the driver for now, will do the driven at a later date. On that note for the driven, should I get the 1" bore driven or the 3/4" bore? I'm just thinking that later on, I may modify the engine with billet rods, flywheel, cam, etc for more power. Cost is the same for a 1" and 3/4" for the driven.

 

[KartFab]

You just might be able to get away with a 40 series but even I have had trouble with the belt slipping at MID range rpm because of too much torque.

 

[Kartorbust]

It is an option. But if its slipping mid range, it may not do so well in the long run. Only today did I think that there was a possibility that the engine I'll be using may not have the proper PTO for me to use. Chances are it's a straight 1" shaft, but it has an electric clutch on it, so I won't know until that's off. If it's the wrong PTO I'll look at other engine options, probably single cylinder of equivalent displacement and build that up. Least it'll be cheaper than a v-twin.

I think I'd rather plan on just have a CVT that can at least hold up to more power, so I'm not replacing belts after a few hours of riding. How well do 3/4" jackahfts hold up to extra power?

 

[KartFab]

It is an option. But if its slipping mid range, it may not do so well in the long run. Only today did I think that there was a possibility that the engine I'll be using may not have the proper PTO for me to use. Chances are it's a straight 1" shaft, but it has an electric clutch on it, so I won't know until that's off. If it's the wrong PTO I'll look at other engine options, probably single cylinder of equivalent displacement and build that up. Least it'll be cheaper than a v-twin.

I think I'd rather plan on just have a CVT that can at least hold up to more power, so I'm not replacing belts after a few hours of riding. How well do 3/4" jackahfts hold up to extra power?

I ran a 5/8” jackshaft on mine, so I’m thinking pretty good?