48v 1000 go kart upgrade to 1800w

[Tony86]

48v 1800w go kart

Hey Sid yes I do see a pattern of 2 positive and to negative I have sent a pic, find it really hard to understand what your trying to say so it's not the mosfets then ? Yes I have that bldc motor and pretty shore sensors have blown as when clicking it 18 times round the clock it doesn't do that no more , and thought the controller was causing them to blow as I don't no why all 3 motors have blown sensors I show you what I have, find it so hard to communicate like this when I don't fully understand everything don't surpose you have Skype bud ?

 

[itsid]

No skype I'm afraid..
it'll be fine, no worries.

Don't probe around if you don't know what you are doing,
if you short something out you will cause way more harm than good. (see below)

And for now do not swap ANYTHING, do not solder around.
I am fairly positive your HE sensors will be fine as well I'm afraid

But even IF the HE Sensors are all shot (I doubt it)
the motors will still run fine, your controller is able to use backEMF as a timing signal...
just leave the HE plug disconnected for now.

I'll need a bit to reread the entire thread (bit busy today.. still work to do.. yes on a sunday ) But in a few hours I can and then we'll see how we can help you best.

For now: would you explain this bit:

..pretty shore sensors have blown as when clicking it 18 times round the clock it doesn't do that no more...

do what no more?

Sure is, you can blow almost everything up if you ignored polarity just once
or shorted two wires that mustn't have been.
and you need to buy a new controller

And the last time I saw such,
the protagonist (Oskar.. the guy that took the pic of the pcb I posted earlier)
got a bit impatient and shorted out some parts in his controller and fried it beyond repair.
here's his thread and the unfortunate outcome
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38436

Please, please don't let me witness such again

'sid

PS will get back to this in ~6hrs

 

[itsid]

okay, has been quite a bit more than 6hrs..
(Morpheus caught up with me and forced me to obey!)

Anywhoo..
I reread the thread again and without your answer to post #38 I can't help but wonder if you measured everything correctly.
I highly doubt it I'm afraid.

it might very well be a lingual issue (quite possibly on my behalf)
but while I see that you are lcoated in the UK,
I have a hard time assuming english is your first language;
so would you mind telling me what is?
Since some of your wordings are - uhm - quite quirky.
And while I know to tell some of the quirks of most western european languages
(or say, how they translate into english) ..
I am quite certain we have a sincere miscommunication.

I think you are quite certain you did measure everything correctly,
and I am fairly certain you may have missed an important part..
So I stil would like to ask you to follow Functional Artist's video
in every single detail for every single one of your motors please
So that you can show us a similar diagram for each motor and each colour
(one mulitcolour diagram, or multiple single colour diagrams per motor isn't important)

I highly doubt the HE Sensors are all shot, since frankly.. nothing in the controller could've ruined them
(other than you wiring them up in reverse, which as far as I understood you could rule out as well)
So one of that must be true:
a) you wired them up in reverse once (swapping red and black on the HE plug)
b) you haven't measured them correctly and they're all fine

especially since you say all three motors act the same, my bets are on B here

And again: yes I would say the MosFETS are all fine as well.

There are some odd bits here and there still,
namely the cut wires on your controller I don't like that too much
and worse:
the sellers pic in post #20 (labeled positve lead black, negative lead red)
if you just once connected your controller that way around it'll be very likely dead.
(no not the mosfets.. the gate transistors are more likely to have suffered)

As I said above, please do not wildly attempt any "repair" without knowing what's actually broken.
otherwise you will likely end up having to buy a replacement. (motor or controller)

So no soldering, no cutting of wires, no scratching, poking or flicking
and for sure no blindly applying any Voltages to random parts.

I will talk you through step by step, that will be slow (internet communication and such)
but it will tell us all we need to know without making things worse.
and we have a solid base to work upon.

'sid

PS IF you want to power a 2000W motor, DO NOT use a 1800W controller, get a 2000W controller instead .. while 11% doesn't sound like much it can cause the microprocessor to toggle overcurrent protection.

 

[Tony86]

48v1800w upgrade from a 48v 1000w buggy

Yes im english and i live in england ,Let's start again as its all a mess and have learned alot....
So it was a 48v 1000w buggy the original motor and controller oviously have a different layout of wires, And connections the most obvious ones was making the motor go in the right direction which is swapping if I remember rightly blue to yellow and to blue in the he sensor to make the motor go the right way as when it was working with motor 1 it was going the wrong direction.
I originally wanted to wire the forward and reverse on the car as it has a forward and reverse, but has 4 big thick wires as you will see on the pics, on the controller you have tiny little wires which you need to play around with/ bypass to make the motor go forward, I stopped caring bout those wires as it seemed to difficult to wire as the wires did not match up and wasn't the same would of just been happy the amount of time and money I spent on this just to have it go forward so that my daughter could use it, anyway I got it moving forward and in the right direction with motor 1, on 'resemble somthing happened and it didn't work This is when all **** broke loose , ino chopping the wires isn't ideal but i have to mess with 1 or 2 to make it all fit, I also use a cut out switch. so motor 1 is completly locked up and doesn't spin anymore , motor 2 and 3 have dead sensors i have coppied funtional artist and when i had new motor got to test the difference between a working motor and 1 thats not working, doing so telling me that the hall sensors in the motor have all blown . Motor 1 2000w has the same output as a 1800w motor but motor 2 and 3 have slight more power didn't think it would make much difference as they were both 48v but it may of as checking hall sensors as soon as I wired it what i would think was correct it must of blown sensors in motor as they do not work like in functional artist vid. I couldn't find any video or sequence on my controller as I no some of them are positive and negative now I no I think its safe to say they are ok as they follow the pattern ++ -- ++--++-- . I don't no if motor 1 can be saved or repared with sensors as its locked up, I have sent pics and thankyou Sid
Tony

 

[itsid]

So it was a 48v 1000w buggy the original motor and controller oviously have a different layout of wires,
And connections the most obvious ones was making the motor go in the right direction which is swapping if I remember rightly blue to yellow and to blue in the he sensor to make the motor go the right way as when it was working with motor 1 it was going the wrong direction.

That sentence is what I meant by quirky,
no offense, but there seem to be some missing words *shrugs*
I kinda understand what you are saying here,
but because I know how to reverse the direction of a BLDC.

Nevermind, let's move on.

I originally wanted to wire the forward and reverse on the car as it has a forward and reverse, but has 4 big thick wires as you will see on the pics, on the controller you have tiny little wires which you need to play around with/ bypass to make the motor go forward, I stopped caring bout those wires as it seemed to difficult to wire as the wires did not match up and wasn't the same would of just been happy the amount of time and money I spent on this just to have it go forward so that my daughter could use it, anyway I got it moving forward and in the right direction with motor 1

Okay, I think we can enable a reverse (forward is never an issue)
for you, but not with that switch and most certainly not how the kart was wired before.
[EDIT]
yes we certainly can.. see below!
[/EoE]

Let's put that question on the shelf, since a non moving kart doesn't need no reverse and we need to get moving before we can think about the direction of mevement, right?

on 'resemble somthing happened and it didn't work This is when all **** broke loose , ino chopping the wires isn't ideal but i have to mess with 1 or 2 to make it all fit,

No, you don't!
The problem with most electronics is,
that one gets angry very easily when some small issue hides behind a tine door. Tearing down the wall will make things worse more often than not.
electronics require patience or a ton of experience
(for me mostly patience since I don't have the experience necessary to knock on the right door every time )

I know it's hard with the kid standing at the door asking,
and all the life that gets in the way of spending time in the garage to satisfy the kid's request.
But Patience is really and utterly important.
one mishap and you start from scratch over and over again.

I see now three motors and three controllers laying around, I feel like that already happened to you about two times by now

I also use a cut out switch. so motor 1 is completly locked up and doesn't spin anymore , motor 2 and 3 have dead sensors i have coppied funtional artist and when i had new motor got to test the difference between a working motor and 1 thats not working, doing so telling me that the hall sensors in the motor have all blown . Motor 1 2000w has the same output as a 1800w motor but motor 2 and 3 have slight more power didn't think it would make much difference as they were both 48v but it may of as checking hall sensors as soon as I wired it what i would think was correct it must of blown sensors in motor as they do not work like in functional artist vid.

Sorry, but you lost me there.
main switch got it..
motors 2 and 3 dead sensors (I still doubt it tbh but it still ddoesn't matter much)
And those motors draw ~10% more current,
that current is likely detected by the controller and if it's too high the controller should (I can't say it actually does, but it SHOULD) cut of all power immediately.

So to be sure you have a reliable set, it's best to get a matching controller/motor combo.
(I like the controller to be one size bigger so at worst it runs cooler than anticipated) a 60Amp controller for a motor that's drawing 45Amps max or so is just what I prefere to use.

a 45Amp controller is what you need, yours is likely limited to 40Amps
and that's what has me worried about it's reliability.
it's not much I admit, but if the code on the microchip decides to cut out all power you can't do anything against that.

I couldn't find any video or sequence on my controller as I no some of them are positive and negative now I no I think its safe to say they are ok as they follow the pattern ++ -- ++--++-- . I don't no if motor 1 can be saved or repared with sensors as its locked up, I have sent pics and thankyou Sid
Tony

With a plethora of controllers and motors like that,
I have a very hard time to believe we don't find a combination of motor and controller that'll work for you.

And with that I have a task for you:
with each and every controller you have
please do the following:

• disconnect everything form the controller's plugs, wires and leads
• Connect the Battery
• engage the jumper for the Main power
  (Plug says "Power Lock".. Red/Orange)
• Measure the output voltage on the HE plug
  (six pin plug saying "Hall wires" measure between red and black wire for DC Voltage)
• Measure the Voltage of the Indicator plug
  (voltage between it's black and orange wire)

write that down for all three controllers and let me know.

OH I just checked.. your controllers (assuming they're all identical) have inbuilt reverse!
it's the plug you decided to cut off (grey, yellow, black wires)
So yeah, no need for messing around with that old switch.. a simple toggle switch will get your daughter into forward and reverse on the flick of a switch

and ideally label the controllers as you did with the motors so we can refer to a single one identifying it without doubt

'sid

 

[Tony86]

48v 1800w go kart

Only 2 controllers one was just the case
Controller 1 and 2
Indicator 48v
He sensor all have 5v so all good on the controllers.
The motor 1 as i said doesn't spin anymore it is locked up and I took out 1 sensor ? Will it unlock out of gear with new sensors ? Or is the magnet broken ?? Or do I need to buy another? Where's the best cheapest place to buy sensor for motor I have found these might need to buy a few packs these should work in all 3 motors?
The Patience and desperation like I never felt haha I have spent an unbelievable amount of hours I have had 48v burn but we're so close now and I can see I think... what has happened and what needs to go right thanks to you my friend ... I had tryed every electric shop to fix it as I didn't want any more stress of it but sadly there was no 1 and had to dig for more patience haha. Where do you live sid as at the end I would like to treat you to somthing of your desire and I won't take no for an answer Thank you Sid
Regards
Tony

 

[itsid]

Ah so just two..
great, both power up the HE Sensor wire so the internal Voltage regulator is
working properly on both, good.

Motor 1 should be fine once it's got his end cap back,
I would've removed the rotor from the case entirely in order to prevent the magnets from getting harmed (they're quite brittle and thus crack easily if the rotor slams against them)
but if you remove it carefully now to check if all magnets are intact,
and when you put it back together
(also carefully to not whack the magnets when putting the rotor back in)
and put the cap back on I think it will be fully functional
I'm still baffled why you removed a sensor tbh..
but for sure that has to go back in of course
And if everything was done correctly it should be good.

Post a pic of the removed HE Sensor please,
since curious minds and such;
I wonder if they're identical to my HE sensors in my totally and completely and utterly different BLDC motor... (I tell you why if they are )

I still am sure that there is no need to replace them.
And the reason for that is that you are still impatient with this.
I asked you to measure, write down and show me the result,
for two reasons actually (Sorry.. for that )
reason #1 which is important for the task at hand, was to see if the 5V PSU is working
properly
(since that powers the internal processor and if that's still working, chances are the microchip is still properly powered)

reason #2 was meaner I'm afraid
I wanted to see if you can follow that advice to test for your patience and precision.
and that unfortunately didn't turn out just as well.
You got the rough ida and jumped in an out as effortlessly as possible.

BUT: I need you to be my hands and eyes so to speak, and I'm still blind and in mittens

And in order to do things safely I REALLY need to ask for more precision.
At one point I will likely ask to power that controller and probe for working voltages.
if you mess up by carelessly connecting wrong wires, you can blow the controller up,
and worse if you carelessly touch a high amp phase by accident you can get severly hurt.
(some amps through your chest can cause a severe heart attack)

I know it's tedious to take a pic of everyting you do or did
and that for a simple result like what I asked for now it's unlikely helpfull.
So to be sure and no matter how pointless it may sound,
when I ask you to "show me" a result,
I do not ask for just text but for a picture of whatever I asked you. (hands and eyes )
and whenever possible a TRUE reading is what I ask for when I say "let me know" or "tell me"
(you highly unlikely got a 5V and 48V reading.. more likely a 5.1V and 49.7V or such)
So please, be precise and patient don't wing it and don't rush it.

And just to get that out of the way.. the MosFets you attached are of no use for you,
you will not need them, and even if one day you need some THOSE are certainly incorrect!
wrong package, wrong voltage, and most likely everything else is also incorrect
So DO NOT buy!

[EDIT]


So.. I checked and I never finished the remote reverse engineering for Oskar
So I don't have any pcb diagram for the controller,
which means there is no easy and gentle way for me to verify your controller is working properly.

We could check the gate transistors if you want, since they'd blow before the MosFets would,
but they're tucked away pretty tightly and them being SOT23 packages you'll need a terribly steady hand .. since the resistors are quite close and must not be shortened or you'll ruin the controller by testing

So I'd rather ask you to just show me the rear of your pcbs instead
a well lit sharp image of the Mosfet legs alone should tell us if one blew or not.
The PCB is conformally coated and that coat is heat sensitive..
a blown MosFet will cause the coating to turn yellow'ish brown usually
(often referred to as sh*tstains )
Far easier, far safer and almost as telling.
So a picture of each of your pcbs underside please!

I just assume at least one is unharmed and no ill discolouration is to be seen.
But in order to properly test I need a handfull of tools;
well you do..

you need two resistors one 10kOhm and one 1.8kOhm.

And about a foot of red (cut into three pieces) and about 4" of black wire

With that we will build ourself a sub 1V powersource by making a voltage divider to fake a HE signal
that we can feed into the motorcontroller to see if that triggers a static power on the phase wires.

I don't want to feed much more than what Kevin measured into the HE Sensors,
since I don't know how the signal is filtered and protected before it feeds into the microprocessor.
And burning the microprocessor is a bad idea

Idea is simple connect the lower value resistor to the black wire,
and the higher value resistor to one of the red wires,
exposing and tinning about 1/4-1/2" of the opposite ends

then solder the two open legs of the resistors and the remaining two red wires together

you should end up with something like that:


let me know when you're ready!

'sid

 

[Tony86]

Sorry that's far to much for me to carry on I think just blew my mind and mis understood about pictures as communicating and fixing like this is unbelievably difficult for me and just getting crazy now, its blowing my mind and not sure if I have the skills to do this with trying to fix somthing so in-depth with communication like it's taking forever and prob gonna just dig myself a grave even further , I also said the motor 1 is locked up and doesn't spin and how to fix that,? Your right I I don't know why I pulled the sensor out because I'm struggling to fix everything as communicating like this and trying to fix is incredibly difficult for anyone specially where you don't no what the he'll there talking bout been communicating for months and not getting nowhere with this and yeah my patience is getting tested for the 100th 10000 time if only you knew what I've tried and done to try and fix all this .... might just be less stress on me to just buy another .... gonna make me ill soon .....
So please talk slowly and tell me step by step exactly what i have to do and if I need to buy stuff show me exactly what and where to get it and which one to fix first we can start again with the volts and picsy ?��������������������

 

[itsid]

That's what I meant by "you need to be patient"
You shouldn't be worried at all atm.
I will not ask you to conduct a brain surgery,
The multimeter and a soldering iron, and a few very simple parts is all we need
(a few wires, some connectors maybe, a switch perhaps nothing you are unprepared for )

you started a dozen 'repairs' at once in what appears to be desperation,
and as I said before I doubt any was actually necessary..
now you get the strange feeling a dozen things are broken
and they are at the moment, but everything will more than likely be a very easy fix
namely the proper reassembly of your previous disassembly alone.

But still: We need to concentrate on ONE of those at a time.
if I'm trying to talk you through a dozen repairs simultaneously
we will make a huge mess and things might get permanently damaged.
I would like to avoid that if possible.

Desperation is not going to be of help

Nothing should be difficult,
it'll only be a slow process thanks to the internet communication thing.
So again, just bear with me for a while and we will sort things out.
ONE BY ONE, not all at once (since that's not going to help you I'm afraid)

for now, just forget about all motors, pulled sensors and
most importantly about all the wiring, switches and dodats on the kart,
and focus on just the two controllers.
its far easier to verify the motors condition with a known to be working controller,
that's why I opted for tackling the controllers first.

Again sorry for the hidden "personality" test
I just needed to know how detailed I need to explain
and how detailed I need to ask to get a "view" of what I need to see.

for the actual 5V and 48V test above,
there is absolutely no need to repeat the measurement.
The exact values do not matter for now, as they're well within spec
and again it was for me to see how thoroughly I need to be asking.

All the important info I needed was
if the HE plug is powered as soon as the controller is switched on
(I needed a 5V source for the patch cable I asked you to build)
and in case there was no power on the HE plug,
knowing if the controller considers the battery as fully charged would have helped
(hence the probing of the indicator plug)
And that info I have, so we can just move on.

If you follow my request and make that patch cable with the two resistors
we will be able to more or less safely test both controllers and verify
they are in working condition.
Then once you put their cases back on,
we do not have to worry about them any longer, they'll be fine.
(and remain so to the day your kid is driving around in the kart)

We have ~two more steps to go until the controllers are
verified to be working and off to the side.

Resistors can easily be bought locally,
that's why I didn't point you to an online shop,
they cost next to nothing (penny parts) and ordering online is rather insane,
you'd likely have to buy lots of twenty or fifty instead of one and ten times their vvalue for shipping or thereabouts.
There isn't anything to buy incorrectly tbh one 10kOhm and one 1.8kOhm
(if 1.8kOhm is difficult to source, a 1.5kOhm or a 2kOhm should do as well)
any throughhole resistor will be fine, we don't ask for precision or beefiness here.
if you want -or were asked- for a number then let's just say (1/2Watt and 5%)
but again that's not critical as long as it's no smd resistor you'll be good.

and wire the same... if you have some wire laying around
that more likely than not will serve our purpose as long as you have two distinct colours (ideally black and red)
if you wonder what to buy just pick something that closely resembles the gauge
of thinnest wire on the controller.. ( anything from ~0.75mm² to 1.5mm² is just about perfect)
the shop that sells you resistors will also have wire of course
(wait.. you have conrad in the UK, don't you?... just find a store near you and I bet they carry what you need)

If you really can't find anything near you, drop me a PM,
I'll make and send you the finished cable.

'sid

 

[Tony86]

Thankyou for your offer sid I will have to buy them online as there's no stores round here that are open anymore, I need to give this ago myself, i cant let this defeat me ive come to far .... so I will buy off eBay can you give me the exact code of them and I will buy a mix of them different ohms thankyou Sid

---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 AM ----------

Also if you show me that switch i will buy that switch for forward and reverse thankyou my friend

 

[itsid]

I think it's better to not buy on ebay tbh,
not that ebay is especially bad or anything, but there should be better sources for electronic dodats and whatnots especially since I think you might need some other parts as well eventually.

So let's try to compile that list first, so you don't have to pay for shipping more than once

• One keyswitch for the power
• One two way switch for forward reverse
• One more two way switch for the two speed settings
• One momentary switch for the brake pedal
• indicator lights
• speedometer
• proper connectors
  IDK what exact type connectors the controller is using,
  but it'd be nice to have their respecive mates in order to wire everything up cleanly
  (you know what I think about cutting wires, right )
• the resistors for testing
• some more wire
• some heatshrink to tidy things up
• soldering stuff [iron, solder, wick, flux]

Since the kart was electric before, I think we can take indicator light off the list, right?
and I think the brake pedal should have the momentary switch installed as well..
speedometer and connectors IDK what you have
IDK if you want to power the kart with a simple toggle switch or rather want a key to power it up.
So, just remove from the list what you already have
-when in doubt, just show what you got and let us take a look-
speedometer is likely going to be a part from a scootershop or such anyways
so that's only added to fill all the connectors on the controller apart from the charging port
ignore that or the indicator light if you want.

Oh and post a pic of that HE Sensor you removed from the motor,
if it is not what I think it is you might want to buy one of those, just to be prepared

'sid

 

[Tony86]

Ok bud so I need
-2 way switch forward and reverse
-Proper connectors I couldn't find anywhere I tried that ages ago I have crimps but not the plastic connectors that they plug into
-resistors
-some wire for the 2way switch hopefully find a place for it at the front of the car
-flux
- Sensor I lost but i measured it and it was 3m in size so I think I found the correct ones of them
-I also need to buy the power port that connects to the battery as it melted my last one playing around with it to much but i found that to and I'll get that
Thankyou
Tony

 

[itsid]

3 meters? I doubt it!

3mm perhaps.. but that tells us NOTHING about what type it was
(there's zero info in size!)
So take a pic of the ones that are still in the motor then.

there should still be two left, no?

DO NOT remove them, just get close and take a pic

'sid

 

[Tony86]

48v 1800w go kart

Sorry yeh 3mm they are tiny , I have been told the ones on the pic I posted are correct would be nice to know the exact code of my ones thankyou
Tony

 

[itsid]

frankly if that's the same seller that offered the MosFets it's a good chance that those are NOT going to suit you well.

And while it's fairly unimportant what bipolar HE Sensor you install,
it's still quite important to use the same type and model for all three signals.
and the internal threshhold needs to be correct for your magnets and distance.
means, the sensor must NOT trigger between two magnets but MUST trigger when dead on a magnet.
hence I have the strangest feeling about the ones in the auction
(given that the MosFets are not even anywhere near the ones you'd need)

Yeah, too bad you lost the one you removed...
it's label would've helped.

Now you can remove another one and hopefully do not loose that again
until you took some nice sharp images of it's label first.
OR if you want I can tell you how to find out with a linear HE sensor and an arduino nano
LOOL

No honestly, "the yellow one" has been shorted by the rotor anyways,
no big deal if there wasn't any power on it's leads when that happened,
but judging by it's legs the rotor actually scratched it rotating (hence powered)
it might still work, but it needs new insulation anyways, so I'd carefully remove it from the socket (not desoldering the legs)
take a good pic of the markings, reinsulate the legs and glue it back in place IIWY.

with the markings we can find a perfect or at least perfectly matching replacement
without we have to measure and guess the threshhold in order to find a viable replacement,
buying from that guy on ebay doesn't exactly make me feel too comfortable.
especially since all important data is missing
(if that's a honeywell sensor I can look at the datasheet of course, but that isn't telling me anything too good about it's use for your motor either...)
about every aspect of it says "no" to me...
I'd pass

[EDIT]
...the "1 3 2" switsh intrigues me..
could it be that it is an "on off on" switch by any chance?
you got the part number or better wiring diagram for that?


'sid

 

[Tony86]

Oh yeh i can a slight shred in the heat shrink not immaculate... That yellow wire would of caused the motor to lock up to? As its locked up motor 1? The switch 1 3 2 is the silly speed switch which I have had working in all gears , as well as the key ignition and indicator. No it's a separate seller that just sells the sensors for the motor, the mosfets were somebody else and never actually found the correct one but touch wood I never need them as I looked everywhere...
arduino nano ? thanks sid lool
When I tried to take off the old sensor I was hoping to find a code on there but it was plain had no code onit hence why I threw it, I can gently take the yellow one off with a head gun and hope for a code on the back where the glue is but as I say the last 1 had no code unless I need a microscope haha
Thank you
Tony

 

[Tony86]

Arduino sensor
This was what you meant I had this saved on eBay to and it come up with that word that got me ...makes sense now

 

[itsid]

No that's not what I meant..
I mean a honeywell SS495 for example a LINEAR ratiometric hall sensor,
one that not flips from on to off at a certain magnetic field strength,
but one that tells you how strong the magnetic field is at any point in time.
(well within the capabilities of the arduinos ADC [10bit resolution usually])
So that by installing it and rotating the motor you can read the peak values (highest and lowest)
and then decide upon those where the switching HE Sensor should have it's trigger points
And with the ones you still have you can easily compare that to their actual trigger points then,
since with a fixed 60° offset you can just interpolate the magnet position.

the sensors (yours as all the others) should have a laser engraving on the smaller face (their front).
if yours didn't thats a bummer but yeah, can't do anything about it if the chinese removed that.

But frankly.. I'd rather have the controller dealt with first..
you still have two motors left and that third one (#1 in this case)
isn't really important to get the kart moving anyways, is it?
So it can be left on the back burner to wait until we solved the rest, don't you agree?

'sid

 

[Tony86]

I will agree haha as most of that felt like a different language so yeah Will focus on 1 at a time but for the parts for the sensor can I double check this its from aliexpress eBay was a rip off 5 pound for 1 alliexpress get 20 for 9pound? Thankyou tony

 

[itsid]

sorry, I think yet again you misunderstood.
ONE SS495 and ONE arduino nano would be needed IF you would want to meeasure what HE switching sensor you'd need for the dead motor we -if I understood you correctly- just decided to allow to rest on the shelf until the controllers and complete motors are running.

And while I still cannot see why one would want to buy twenty from china if one in the uk is just
enough.
a second could come in handy perhaps, a third is already overkill.. twenty is just nuts.
And also: apples and oranges.. the ss495 has not much in common with a SS41
same package, same manufacturer, both magnetic field testing devices...
still very different parts.

'sid