Simple question...what is it?

[FC2TURBO]

Title says it all...
If it's got a brand, where can I find it stamped?
What should I measure to help identify it?
Looking to add a better seat and tires, maybe tighten up the steering....beyond that, I'm open to suggestions and assistance.

 

[Hellion]

I answered it in your Intro thread.

Manco #400. Great manufacturer and a good, basic kart.

The rear cast aluminum wheels are great and classic, much sought after, but they are a bit brittle after all these years. Those are the original Manco wheels.

For some pizzaz, you could upgrade to some Azusa Tri-Star cast aluminum rims (very spiffy), or the Azusalites which are made from a very sturdy and lightweight black Zytel.

---------- Post added at 01:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ----------

These karts were never stamped--they had a decal/sticker with the model number and a serial number. There was typically a gold "MANCO" decal in the center of the steering wheel. Sometimes they had a fancy name like American Express, Quicksilver, Dingo, Deuce, Fox, Critter, etc., along with a colorful graphic with that name on the floor pan, headrest or wherever.

 

[Smerft85]

If you do want to sell the wheels on the rear, you can post them in the classified section here, I know I'm one of at least a few that would be after them. Definitely a manco "400", same one I've been working on, mine only came with the original drive wheel, the rest matched your front ones from harbor freight. They are fun karts to clean up and it doesn't feet much more basic than karts like these.

 

[FC2TURBO]

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

I am not planning on racing, but I am planning on bashing it...
Should the brittleness of the cast wheels be a concern?

Thanks again for the info guys!

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Budget GoKart on here has experience with those cast wheels breaking into pieces, so if you want to bash it, I'd sell those and get some steel split rims. Very tough, and I can tell you that from experience.

 

[FC2TURBO]

I tried finding an age for this...
When did Manco stop making them?
Or do they still make them?

Google us failing me

 

[Karttekk]

Manco turned into American Sportworks and now the company is American Landmaster. The only karts they were producing were the Black Widow, the Marauder and the Carbide. They've stopped production on the Carbide and focus mainly on UTV's.

https://americanlandmaster.com/

---------- Post added at 04:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:21 PM ----------

https://americanlandmaster.com/?s=fun+karts

---------- Post added at 04:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:21 PM ----------

https://americanlandmaster.com/fun-karts/carbide/

 

[Hellion]

I tried finding an age for this...
When did Manco stop making them?
Or do they still make them?

Google us failing me

That's because Gewgle doesn't know. It was either before the golden age of the interwebz or it just wasn't documented.

Did you click on the illustrated parts list/manual I gave you in the other thread?
The date at the bottom of the first page is always a good ballpark figure for the production date(s). I think that particular manual said 1994?

 

[FC2TURBO]

thanks Hellion...
I did click on it, didn't notice the date until tonight when I printed it out...1994

thanks for the tip on the wheels too...came with the cart when I bought it. I'm already looking for alternatives. the 2 wheels noted above...they're great, but a bit more than I thought they would be. Is the a cheaper yet still safe alternative?

The cart is going to be on rougher than pavement terrain, but nothing serious I don't think. Definitely won't be raced.

A few more questions, starting with, at what point do I open another thread to ask questions? I'm reading all that I can, but I'm not much of a gear head. I'm very good mechanically, just never got into motors and such. So things like torque converters vs centrifugal clutches, governors and the like, I'm completely lost.

I'm willing to do my homework, but if it isn't a thorn in anyone's side, I learn best by playing 20 questions. Any resources you have beyond that idea, I'd be interested in hearing about.

Next question: since I'm just bashing this, would a TC be a better option? The article seemed to suggest so, but I don't know how much modification I'll need to fit one in...Is it worth it I guess is the real question?

that's enough for now.

thanks for the assist

 

[Dingocat]

Next question: since I'm just bashing this, would a TC be a better option? The article seemed to suggest so, but I don't know how much modification I'll need to fit one in...Is it worth it I guess is the real question?
/QUOTE]

No. If it were a live axle than maybe but otherwise it's not worth it. Because without a love axle you'll just dig ruts.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

thanks Hellion...
I did click on it, didn't notice the date until tonight when I printed it out...1994

thanks for the tip on the wheels too...came with the cart when I bought it. I'm already looking for alternatives. the 2 wheels noted above...they're great, but a bit more than I thought they would be. Is the a cheaper yet still safe alternative?

The cart is going to be on rougher than pavement terrain, but nothing serious I don't think. Definitely won't be raced.

A few more questions, starting with, at what point do I open another thread to ask questions? I'm reading all that I can, but I'm not much of a gear head. I'm very good mechanically, just never got into motors and such. So things like torque converters vs centrifugal clutches, governors and the like, I'm completely lost.

I'm willing to do my homework, but if it isn't a thorn in anyone's side, I learn best by playing 20 questions. Any resources you have beyond that idea, I'd be interested in hearing about.

Next question: since I'm just bashing this, would a TC be a better option? The article seemed to suggest so, but I don't know how much modification I'll need to fit one in...Is it worth it I guess is the real question?

that's enough for now.

thanks for the assist

Like I said above, look into some steel split rims.
They're not all that pretty, but they're simple, cheaper than fancy Azusas, and DARN tough!

 

[Smerft85]

You can continue with this thread, or start a thread in project logs. We are all usually good with answering questions, so ask away! I think everyone here has asked for some advise at some point here, even when it's "writers block" and you just need a jump start. I would agree with the dead axle (one wheel peel) there isn't much benefit to a torque converter, however that frame would be a simple addition to go live axle. If you get it geared correctly it will do just fine as long as it's not in super loose gravel or soft dirt, the one I put together for my kids still does over 30mph with a dead axle and centrifugal clutch.

 

[FC2TURBO]

Budget GoKart on here has experience with those cast wheels breaking into pieces, so if you want to bash it, I'd sell those and get some steel split rims. Very tough, and I can tell you that from experience.

I tell you, the start of this new hobby has me feeling like an idiot...
I cannot find the rims you mean?
I mean I think I find some, but the hole in the center looks way too big.
Do you have a specific brand or dealer suggestion you can offer?

Also, the factory tires are 4.10/3.5-4 is that correct?
On a 5/8 shaft?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

The big hole in the center is for the hub.
OMBWarehouse carries whole wheel assemblies with everything you need for about $50 a wheel. A bit pricey, but you get the hub, wheel, tire, and tube in one package. I think it's also a little cheaper than buying them separately(plus there's no scouring the web to make sure parts match).
And it honestly doesn't matter a ton what the original size is unless you want to preserve originality. But putting a different kind of wheel on throws originality out the window.
I prefer OMBWarehouse myself.

 

[Hellion]

Also, the factory tires are 4.10/3.5-4 is that correct?
On a 5/8 shaft?

My apologies for suggesting some of the more expensive alternatives....

I'd just get new front 4" rims and 4.10/3.50-4 tires and tubes because the HF wheels will eventually fail. Don't worry about the rears. Just use what you have and drive on.

Budget Gokart is no "expert" on broken Manco wheels.
He didn't break or repair them, they were purchased broken.



I am not a fan of OMB Warehouse, just not the best deals.

I like MFG Supply's $6.99 flat rate shipping.

With that in mind, I did some comparison shopping on your behalf. I did pick the 4" Azusalites because they're complete (and $21.99 a piece at MFG) and need no separate hub, plus I picked the ones with precision bearings and not that cheap, stamped 'economy' garbage bearing they offer.

With OMB, the more you add to your shopping cart the higher the shipping gets. With MFG, things only start getting expensive if you ordered a minibike frame or something. But you can pile a lot of stuff onto your order and that $6.99 just rocks steady (within reason of course).

EDIT--the tubes you have in your HF tire/wheel combo are probably perfectly fine. Use them.

 

[FC2TURBO]

Thanks Helion...I'm gonna get new rear wheel/tire setup as well... this info helps alot

---------- Post added at 08:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

ok....2 questions (again)...

the back tires...at least the RR are shot. cracking/rips...etc. So I'm thinking, I was originally gonna buy all new wheels/tubes/tires for all 4 corners. well, that brings in a whole new can of worms, because of the drive wheel, its associated sprocket, the chain, the drive sprocket on the motor...etc

(See, here is where my old maintenance mind comes to work...if you gotta take off the sprocket, might as well replace it...since 1994, its gotta be worn. If you're gonna replace one part of the mechanical drive train, not changing it all simply wears the new part out sooner...so...yada yada yada...so I'm tabling the rear WHEEL replacements at this time. (note: future discussion regarding chain size, motor size, sprockets etc on the horizon))

my question is this...with replacing the new tubes and tires on the rear, original Manco 400 wheels, which appear to be a split wheel, is there a torque spec with tightening the wheel back together?
Does it matter?
Aside from the normal precautions dealing with old aluminum/white metal fragility, is there anything I should be on the look out for regarding the condition, disassembly and reassembly of the real wheels once I have the new tubes and tires ready for install?