Damien

[Functional Artist]

I put the frame in the bender & "tweaked" the rear just a bit (don't wanna over do it)

Then, I reassembled the frame & swing arm & "propped a front tire against the axle stub for measurement/test purposes.

To make the top rail I measured & marked a piece of pipe @ 10 1/2" (to cut off excess), 16" (spot for max bend) & 26" (spot for mild "kick down" bend)

After bending I cut the excess off @ 10 1/2" then slid it onto the alignment stub.

First, standing straight up @ ~90* (but we don't want it that way)

Then, I tilted it outward to ~ a 45* angle. (being sure the tire does not hit/rub)

Yea, that looks better

Now, lets see if we can bring it down a bit. (close to where the rear kick ups of the lower frame rail ends)

I put 'er in the bender @ the 26" mark (making sure it was square with the bender) & then put a nice little bend in 'er. (~10 pumps)

 

[Tpdingo]

A-ha! Now were talking. Thats exactly what I wanted to see, the slope back design.

 

[J.S.@SMS]

That things going to look killer! Do us all a favor and put a video on your channel of you riding the kart once its done.

 

[Functional Artist]

First I tried (5) pumps, then (10) pumps & finally ~13 pumps was the winner.

Looks good from a top view too.

Next, I gotta make another one & then a rollbar/seatback.

 

[Functional Artist]

I did some (lots) more bendin'

Then, some assemblin'& measurin' & markin' & trimmin' & tweakin' & adjustin' & cleanin' & smoothin' & tackin'

My little Desteny gave me a hand
('cause some stuff is just too difficult to be clamped)

After everything was "tack'ed", I did a lot of double check measurin' & eyein'

Yup, everything looks good so, I took 'er back apart again (for like the 40th time) & welded everything up good

 

[Functional Artist]

Yup, it looks like a "sleigh", but all of our joints are nice-n-tight (ha, ha, I said joint)

Then, I noticed I forgot to slide the upper spring striker/mount/bar/thing, on the rear uprights.

We'll get back to that

The springs are to mount even with the bottom of the battery box & we need a lower support for the batteries, so we'll go "dual purpose"

A couple of 1/8" x 2" metal strips, welded on angles, will be strong, light weight & dual purpose

 

[Functional Artist]

Springs

This ones not a "hard tail", we have a springer

I made a new spring "striker bar" & added a couple of small braces.

I mounted the springs onto the spring mounts & prepped the frame for welding.

Next, I propped up the frame (to the proper height), lined the spring striker bar & welded 'er on good-n-solid.

 

[Functional Artist]

Here are more pics (with suspension) from a few different angles

The springs should only "give" ~1" but, we have lots more clearance above the rear wheels.

The front wheel is just "propped" there for "the look" & checking the "stance" of the kart

 

[Functional Artist]

Mounting the spindle mounts

Once we know where the rear is gonna be, we can set up the front.

I sat the front of the kart up on a stack of 2" x 4"s, till I had it at a nice stance.
The frame in the rear was ~6" off of the ground & the front was ~4"

With the frame "sloped downward" like this, the front axle was on an angle too, so we'll have to "overcompensate" just a bit to figure the "proper inclination".

I started with the right spindle mount, set/marked it (with a sharpie) square at first (just as a reference)
Then, I marked it @ ~85* & marked the left "to match", but opposite

Put 'em in the vise (one at a time) & used the "handy dandy" cut-off tool to "permanently scar 'em".
This way I could clean them up, for proper welding & still see my lines

 

[Tpdingo]

Once we know where the rear is gonna be, we can set up the front.

I sat the front of the kart up on a stack of 2" x 4"s, till I had it at a nice stance.
The frame in the rear was ~6" off of the ground & the front was ~4"

With the frame "sloped downward" like this, the front axle was on an angle too, so we'll have to "overcompensate" just a bit to figure the "proper inclination".

I started with the right spindle mount, set/marked it (with a sharpie) square at first (just as a reference)
Then, I marked it @ ~85* & marked the left "to match", but opposite

Put 'em in the vise (one at a time) & used the "handy dandy" cut-off tool to "permanently scar 'em".
This way I could clean them up, for proper welding & still see my lines

Great job so far, I'm loving this build. No more of the got milk? posters, gotta go for the got kingpin angle? posters.
Also...plus 100 dad points for having Desteny help you.

 

[Functional Artist]

Great job so far, I'm loving this build. No more of the got milk? posters, gotta go for the got kingpin angle? posters.
Also...plus 100 dad points for having Desteny help you.

Thanks & yup, we got kingpin angle

Desteny's always been my helper buddy.

But, I've noticed as she gets closer to a teenager, I now get the 3rd degree (a lot)

...how long is this gonna take?

...am I gonna get dirty?
...is there gonna be fire?...or sparks?

I give the same answers every time

...it's gonna take as long as it's gonna take

...if it ain't dirty, it ain't fun
...you got a problem with fire?

 

[Functional Artist]

Let's get'em welded on

I started on the right side, held the bracket at the line, double checked the angle & tack'ed 'er on

To help line up the left side, (we have a line, but just to be sure) I clamped a short board to the top of the right (tacked) spindle bracket & also propped it up with a couple pieces of pipe.
Yup, it's pretty close to our line

Then, I tacked 'er down, unclamped the board & double checked everything. (angles, forward & backward turning radius & height clearance.
Yup, looks good so far, so I went ahead & welder 'er on good.

 

[landuse]

I like your attention to detail! There is lots that people can learn from this thread

 

[Functional Artist]

I like your attention to detail! There is lots that people can learn from this thread

Thanks

Yup, details make a big difference
…& sometimes (1) little detail can even make ya or break ya

Here are some pics after installing the front spindles & wheels.

First one kinda looks like a bath tub on wheels

 

[Tpdingo]

Everything looks great...except one thing. What is with the mismatches wheels. I want them all WHITE! Did you rob parts again for test fitting?

Although it does kinda look like a bathtub on wheels for people who lay down the entire time.

 

[Functional Artist]

Everything looks great...except one thing. What is with the mismatches wheels. I want them all WHITE! Did you rob parts again for test fitting?

Although it does kinda look like a bathtub on wheels for people who lay down the entire time.

Tryin' to keep 'er light. (thinkin' outside of the box)

The front wheels are composite (some kinda rugged plastic) wheel barrow wheels.
They only weigh a couple of lbs. & are $6.95 ea.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Wheel...0-6-Carlisle-Wheel-Tire-Assembly-1-116259.axd

I use them on the Torsk kart with no issues.

 

[Tpdingo]

Tryin' to keep 'er light. (thinkin' outside of the box)

The front wheels are composite (some kinda rugged plastic) wheel barrow wheels.
They only weigh a couple of lbs. & are $6.95 ea.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Wheel...0-6-Carlisle-Wheel-Tire-Assembly-1-116259.axd

I use them on the Torsk kart with no issues.

Oh ok.

May I request something?
Can you put some white paint on like the front wheels?
I doubt the difference is going to I've the difference between painted and unpainted will be any more than negligable.

 

[Functional Artist]

Oh ok.

May I request something?
Can you put some white paint on like the front wheels?
I doubt the difference is going to I've the difference between painted and unpainted will be any more than negligable.

Yup, shouldn't be a problem.

These wheels come ready to go right out of the box.

But, they come with rounded wheelbarrow style tires & bushings, instead of bearings.
I guess most wheelbarrows don't do over 10 MPH.

 

[Tpdingo]

I guess most wheelbarrows don't do over 10 MPH.

Challenge Accepted.

Ok I came up with an idea that I think it would be totally sick if you did, but it's totally up to you.
Ever see the Razor Spark scooter? The ones with the spark cartidge on the back that is nothing more than an oversized lighter igniter. Anyway, you should mount two carts right behind the back tires and make some kind of lever to let the carts down.
Damien sparkin' in style!

 

[Functional Artist]

Now for the operator compartment.

We need to maximize the space we have to work with, so we'll start at the rear & work our way forward.

I sat the motor on the motor mount (slid all of the way forward) so I could mark where to mount "my signature" roll/bar seatback, leaving ~1/2" of extra clearance space. (just to be sure)

I set the angle of the seat back @ ~80* (tilted toward the rear) & made sure that the overall height will be ~40" when done & with the wheels on.

After a couple of tack's & some double checkin' I took 'er all apart again.

Once it was a bare frame, I went ahead & welded 'er on good.

* We'll use a little bit of them bars (hangin' down) to connect the floor pan & then trim off the excess.