Homemade supercharger

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frederic

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i have to disagree with the no replacement for displacement comment lol ask anyone who owns/tunes/or races a wankel and relax dude i was just messing with you like i've said before its hard to offend/discourage me.

Good on your not being discouraged and I'm quite relaxed ;-)

And, as someone who has tuned rotory/wankels before, I will say the rule still applies. Two rotors are better than one :p

heh-heh
 

Rotore

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Good on your not being discouraged and I'm quite relaxed ;-)

And, as someone who has tuned rotory/wankels before, I will say the rule still applies. Two rotors are better than one :p

heh-heh

yeap and true but unlike a piston engine we can add and extra rotor without buying a completely new block :p.

3 rotors are better then 2 lol
 

Rotore

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but most of the time we have 8 instead of 3 HA!

1 rotor = 3 pistons

so lets see 3 rotors x 3 = 9, equivulent to 9 cylinders so HA! 9<8

or if you want to compare a wankle to a big block.

N/a V8 = 300-500hp

N/a r26b = 690hp

add f/i

V8=1500hp

r26b=2500hp

so really my rotary the same size as your big block v8 is putting out the same kinda of power you'd see in a v12.

but realisticly speaking comparing your average street small block to a 20b (3rotor) we still are making the same power you are but with a smaller engine and on top off that we can rev to 14000rpm safely while your stuck at 5000rpm 7000rpm with a good tune.

but my point is i'd rather be at the track with my rotary then your small block.
 

freakboy

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But then you guys still don't have the sound a piston engine makes you know that deep rumble,not a high pitch wine. i will agree with you on some cars i will take a rotary over a v8 but, im definitely not putting a rotary in a 60's mustang that will just kill a classic.
 

Kaptain Krunch

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I'd rather have a rotary too, but were talkin go karts here, 100hp is a lot. I'm actually lookin for a decent sled engine for my kart, someones got one for free i might be gettin, its a 70s skidoo of some sorts, hoping it might be a rotary style like the one Jerry's got.
 

oscaryu1

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Crap those don't work?! ****

Hehe, just kidding. Now if that could be an ADDITION to a CAI (like a Y tube), then I would get it.

I honestly doubt a 12V DC motor can flow more than a engine can by itself.
 

Kenny_McCormic

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Number of cylinders, displacement, HP, etc. isn't all you gotta count. A 3.0 liter V6 Dodge stealth twin turbo RT will out run a 8.0 liter V10 viper. and a 327 SBC will touch 10K all day long without any problems.
 

frederic

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Number of cylinders, displacement, HP, etc. isn't all you gotta count. A 3.0 liter V6 Dodge stealth twin turbo RT will out run a 8.0 liter V10 viper. and a 327 SBC will touch 10K all day long without any problems.

True, there are other factors. Front/rear balance, available traction, weight, suspension geometry front and back (something a Viper excels at), weight, aerodynamics, and so on.

A stock SBC will not hum at 10K all day without problems. It will grenade. A well built one for this purpose specifically, absolutely. You can do that with many V8's. An all aluminum Rover 4.0L for example, weighing in at less than 300lbs with all the accessories.

Krunch is right though, we are talking about go-karts and not street machines. While my personal experience is with "big iron" a lot of the theory and math does translate down to kart-sized vehicles and kart-sized engines, which is why I jumped on this thread trying to shed some light about forced induction in general, as well as talking about the importance of getting a seal in whatever device is used in that role.

In my mind, it's mostly (but not entirely) about power to weight ratio - i.e. the concept of a big engine in a tiny thing.

That's why to me, racing karts are a heck of a lot of fun. To make my F350 crewcab fun to drive on the same scale, I'd need about 1000 HP. It's likely to be more expensive to build than a 250 lb go-kart with a 20-ish HP Kohler ;-)
 

Raywelder

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A tiny tubo would work on your opposed twin. Whats the displacement?

Not sure :confused: I would have to hit up heymow to figure out.


I'm not too serious on supercharging this motor, I plan on finishing the bike and make it run good before anything like that.

But I have tons of room for something like that,
And tell me it wouldn't be cool to have a supercharger bolted to the top of this beast!
Plus you get that nice whining sound.
 

Rotore

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But then you guys still don't have the sound a piston engine makes you know that deep rumble,not a high pitch wine. i will agree with you on some cars i will take a rotary over a v8 but, im definitely not putting a rotary in a 60's mustang that will just kill a classic.

i rather here this then a v8... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHqAiiPx3-c&feature=related

True. I can also weld two blocks together for 16 cylinders. Unfortunately, I don't own a vehicle long enough to shove it into ;-)


Absolutely !
and i can add 2 more rotors and have more power then you and still be smaller

Number of cylinders, displacement, HP, etc. isn't all you gotta count. A 3.0 liter V6 Dodge stealth twin turbo RT will out run a 8.0 liter V10 viper. and a 327 SBC will touch 10K all day long without any problems.

10k rpm on a car bound for performance while the 20b (3 rotor) only came in auotmatic and still can rev to 14k rpm easily
 

Rotore

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Krunch is right though, we are talking about go-karts and not street machines. While my personal experience is with "big iron" a lot of the theory and math does translate down to kart-sized vehicles and kart-sized engines, which is why I jumped on this thread trying to shed some light about forced induction in general, as well as talking about the importance of getting a seal in whatever device is used in that role.

In my mind, it's mostly (but not entirely) about power to weight ratio - i.e. the concept of a big engine in a tiny thing.

That's why to me, racing karts are a heck of a lot of fun. To make my F350 crewcab fun to drive on the same scale, I'd need about 1000 HP. It's likely to be more expensive to build than a 250 lb go-kart with a 20-ish HP Kohler ;-)

what if we throw an all motor 12 a on my soon to be reverse trike.... 12k rpm in a vehicle less then 1000lbs wouldnt that be fun
 

lemegacool

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i think i already spent way too much money... on something that i know will not work lol
oh! oh! yesterady i got the mini yellow air filter to put on the valve vent tube lol!


 

Raywelder

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frederic

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This one is being advertised for small motors.
Seems like the AMR300 is about right for an engine about my size.

Keep your eyes peeled guys!
I'll mess with it if I can get a decent priced blower.


Yep, small blowers do exist. I personally don't run into them often but they do exist. After all, people do race karts, minibikes, and other smaller displacement vehicles.

what if we throw an all motor 12 a on my soon to be reverse trike.... 12k rpm in a vehicle less then 1000lbs wouldnt that be fun

Of course it would. For anything that's fun to drive, it's about the power to weight ratio.

I prefer big blocks because all of my vehicles are big, massive land yachts. F350 crewcab, Crown Victoria, Dodge extended cab, etc.

I happen to immensely dislike FWD cars, even though I used to own a highly modified one that I converted to forced induction. The power to weight ratio made it fun to drive, but the torque steer common with overpowered FWD cars was counter-intuitive to my brain which seemingly understands how a RWD car feels more than a FWD. But that's a preference, not a slight against FWD cars.

Whatever people like and want to build, hey, good for them. To each their own, right? I myself simply prefer oversized, overpowered big things ;-)
 
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