A T/C will give you way more power and acceleration than a stage 1 will ever on a centri-clutch. You will end up spending more beating around the bush then you will just burning the bush with a flamethrower.
Also, if you really don't want to spend 100$ on a T/C, don't. Get a 60$ one instead!
This specific one is 70$ but you can get cheaper on other places
**Sidenote: what clutch are you using? When I was smoking my Hilliard clutch, it never smelled. It isn't a good signal for a slipping clutch.
**Sidenote 2: Let me help you understand what anickdote is saying. Most karts really require a 5:1 - 6:1 ratio. My kart at home runs a 3:1, but it also weighs 40lbs(100lbs with a 8 y/o on it) and has 9.5" tires. You have a likely 100+lbs kart with 13-15" tires on it. My clutch struggles to get me moving with 3HP. Your kart, well thats no game. Its all about the foot-pounds. My Dingo has 18 tires, so 9" from the axle. It takes maybe 10lbs of force to move it from the outside edge of the tire. That means it takes around 7.5 ft-lbs of torque to make it move on level ground w/ properly inflated tires. Well my T/C has a 3:1 ratio and my axle has a 6:1 ratio. It engages around 1800rpm, so you take the torque measurement from there. So lets say ~6 ft-lbs. 6*18 = 108 ft-lbs of torque @ 100rpm. That sends the kart flying up to speed in no time, and the T/C changes to get the wheels up to 600 rpm. Your clutch doesn't directly connect untl around 2600, so lets say due to slippage half the torque gets through. ~3 lbs of torque * 4.5 = 13.5lbs of torque. Remember that it takes 8 ft-lbs of torque WITHOUT the passenger. 2x - 3x the weight is 16-24 ft-lbs of torque and you are staying at a standstill all day.