Hemi Build #3 -Boogie Woogie Woogie

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bob58o

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Can a pump like this be mounted either vertical OR horizontal?
 

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bob58o

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I got one of these things.
2-3/4”
240 grit
Silicone Carbide
 

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Randy H

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Did you get a great deal? I probably should get one too. I'll likely just use sandpaper or a chunk of scotch brite. Lol.

240 grit seems a little rough.? Maybe your gonna use synthetic oil for break in? I really haven't uhmm, Brush Researched it.
 

bob58o

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Did you get a great deal? I probably should get one too. I'll likely just use sandpaper or a chunk of scotch brite. Lol.

240 grit seems a little rough.? Maybe your gonna use synthetic oil for break in? I really haven't uhmm, Brush Researched it.

It was like $30 I think.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T0B0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I was thinking this might be rough enough to fix some light scoring?

KartFab has one of these. I should ask him what grit he has.
I think 180, 240, 320 are common?

https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/cylinder-bore-refinishing

Cylinder Roughness
Substantial controversy exists on the correct cylinder roughness for proper seating of piston rings, whether chrome, moly, or plain cast iron. It has been our experience that the use of 220-280 grit stones and achieving proper cross hatch angle produces a finish compatible to all three types of the above rings.


http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2004/05/cylinder-bore-refinishing/
By comparison, traditional honing procedures require no finishing step. Typically most ring manufacturers recommend using #220 grit silicon carbide honing stones if the engine will be assembled with plain cast iron or chrome rings, #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, and #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance. Even so, the cylinders can still be plateaued to some extent by finishing them with some type of flexible brush.

http://www.flexhoneblog.com/2011/02/prepping-cylinder-walls-for-new-piston.html
The most typical grits we see used for deglazing applications are 180 and 240 grit, but the range used is 120 all the way up to 400 (we’ve even seen some extreme performance ring manufacturers recommend 800 or Levigated abrasives!). If you have any corrosion, rust, or oxidation it will probably skew your grit selection a bit coarser. If you are running a high performance engine, with multiple tear downs and surface finishes per year, or very thin rings you will want to use a finer grit.

Most often your ring manufacturer will give you a good idea of what grit you need.

Here is a forum discussion of a man who used a 180 grit Flex-Hone tool to deglaze and prep his cylinder walls that is worth taking a look at. He does a great job of taking you through the process and has included some nice pictures.



As far as I can tell, 240 is what you want for most applications.
 

bob58o

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What psi does that pump put out?

12 volt
1 amp
1 -2 psi.
It was the lowest pressure I could find.
If it is still too much for the float needle and seat, I am prepared to add a return line to the tank with a shut off valve to regulate the pressure at the carb.

Filter between tank and pump.
T on pump outlet.
One side returns back to the tank with an inline 1/4 turn shut off valve.
Other side goes to the carb.

Close the valve to decrease the return flow back to the tank and increase pressure at the carb inlet.
Open the valve to increase the return flow back to the tank and reduce pressure at the carb inlet.

The other option, when using a higher psi (3-5 psi) pump, is to change the float seat and needle which are for gravity to a set for a pump. I'm not sure those replacement needles/seats are available for the OKO carbs (or NIBBI). Maybe Keihin stuff fits???

1-2 psi is probably low enough where I don't need to worry about the return line or the needle/seat size, but it is better to know about potential issues in advance then to be surprised later.
 

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Randy H

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Maybe I'm just a worry wort, but what if you crash, are knocked unconscious, and while you're there lying in a fetal position with like 91 octane fuel pumping over your soon to be lifeless body, a spark ignites and your unwittingly immoliated like a protesting Monk.

I guess that's not a great question, but hey, food for thought.
 

bob58o

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Maybe I'm just a worry wort, but what if you crash, are knocked unconscious, and while you're there lying in a fetal position with like 91 octane fuel pumping over your soon to be lifeless body, a spark ignites and your unwittingly immoliated like a protesting Monk.

I guess that's not a great question, but hey, food for thought.

The degree of the burns on my body shall be a testament to the charging capabilities of my Hemi Predator.

I do want to try to wire it so it turns on with the ignition key and turns off with either the key or the tethered/push button remote kill switch. Not sure how to do that yet, but I think I'll be able to figure something out. Maybe.

This is how I clean parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWeG6Ea84zg
 

bob58o

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2.756" Bore
2.165 Stroke
18.4 CC Combustion Chamber
FLUSH Deck Height
2.756" Bore of Head Gasket
0.027" Thickness of Head Gasket
Flat-Top Piston (Zero CC for Dish/Dome)
3.328" Connecting Rod Length
71 Degrees ABDC Intake Valve Seat Closing??? <--- Still Not sure of this. 0.050" In Closing happens at 34 ABDC. I am 85% confident that Seat closing will happen between 71 and 75 ABDC.

And there is always a possibility that comparing similar duration camshafts from Dynocams means nothing and my estimated 37 degrees from seat to 0.050" lift is totally invalid.


"There are two types of people. Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data"

11.06 SCR
8.43 DCR (if 71 ABDC intake closing)
8.11 DCR (if 75 ABDC intake closing)

My Goal was just under 8.5 DCR. I assumed 71 intake closing to be on the safe side.
Good. Pretty Good. Pretty, Pretty Good.

Now let's just hope the internet was correct about being able to run 8.5:1 DCR with aluminum heads on pump gas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRz8-EXlhBo

---------- Post added at 08:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 AM ----------

I'm suprised they make a 1-2 psi pump. That should be pretty cool and not have to rely on a pulse pump.

https://www.ebay.com/i/142673755332?chn=ps

I plan to have the tank mounted high as well.
So in case I run out of battery because my charging doesn't work, I can pull start my bike and use gravity to feed the carb and limp back home.

Key to success is planning for failure?

It is in my nature to be redundant.
Being who I am, my posts and builds often include superfluous aspects.:yawn:
 

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bob58o

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Off on Wednesday and Thursday.
Should give me a nice window to get cleaning and assembly done.
Going to use stock springs and stock rockers at first to break in the cam shaft.
Then I’ll upgrade to 26lb springs and the 1.2 Roller Rockers.
 

bob58o

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Shim Shimmery Shim Shimmery Shim-Shim Sh’roo.
And If they fit in my head, then that’s lucky too.

Had to buy 20 so I didn’t feel like I was paying $10 shipping for two $0.50 shims. $1 per shim is better than $5.50 per shim right?

Like a Glove!
 

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