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LeeMajors

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Well I'm new to building go-karts but have always loved riding them. I'm pushing 40 and still every year, when we go on our summer vacation to OC,MD., my favorite part is going to SpeedWorld to drive the karts. This year however, lit a fire under my a$$ to finally look into building one. My son just turned 4 and he was finally big enough to ride in the passenger seat there and the way he lit up was motivation enough for me. I recently finished my first fully built/boosted car so I figured.... go-kart?... Meh, wth not!?:wai: Anywho, I just picked up this beauty of a motor for $20 off my neighbor's old roto-tiller. It seems to have compression and surely has spark (found out the hard way) but she's gonna need some TLC to get her running. Once I map out the build I'll probably start a build log and keep yall updated. In the meantime, thanks for having me, and thanks to all of you who'v help create this incredible resource!:thumbsup:
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---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 PM ----------

I just realized something.... on the side of this engine where the driveshaft comes out it doesn't appear to have the 4 bolt holes that I see on all of the engines you guys seem to be using? Does this mean there no way to mount a clutch to it? I sure hope not?
 

chancer

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You just need to remove that pulley and a Centrifugal Clutch (CC) will go on the Crank shaft as normal. The bolts are for running a Torque converter as opposed to a clutch. A nice Upgrade but not at all necessary and more Expensive.
Call Mike at IMI auctions 303 833 0491 he has CCs for less than 20bucks free shipping.
*I know it is a little early yet but now you have the number, in your thread.

Also Props to you for using a classic 5HP Flat head Briggs as opposed to japping out and getting the Harbor Freight Motor!
 

LeeMajors

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You can go centrifugal clutch. Welcome to the 6 Million $ Man! Aka Heath Barkley.

Lol! Thx man

You just need to remove that pulley and a Centrifugal Clutch (CC) will go on the Crank shaft as normal. The bolts are for running a Torque converter as opposed to a clutch. A nice Upgrade but not at all necessary and more Expensive.
Call Mike at IMI auctions 303 833 0491 he has CCs for less than 20bucks free shipping.
*I know it is a little early yet but now you have the number, in your thread.

Also Props to you for using a classic 5HP Flat head Briggs as opposed to japping out and getting the Harbor Freight Motor!

Awesome!!! Thank you for that bigtime man! I was definitely concerned. And yea I figured my best bet was to stick to old school motors if not only for the ease and cheapness of finding parts, but for the reliability too. So it was this one or an old Wisconsin but it just didn't seem like there was much support for the Wisconsin's anymore? Plus this was WAY closer and cheaper. Now for the Jap engines; I looked at some Honda's (due to their reliability) but because of that reputation they were WAY outta my budget. I do have a question though regarding these older flatheads: Is it out of the realm of possibility to make enough HP/TQ with this engine to move me (6'/250lbs) and my son (4'/50lbs) around at a good clip with simple bolt-ons? Or would that require some MAJOR mods? Ans again, Thanks for your reply man!
 

Hellion

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to the forum!

And this fellow Briggs fan welcomes you to the classic engine side. Seems 80% of the forum is populated by parts replacers. They buy a kart with an older engine on it, can't get it to run so they buy a Predator. Nothing wrong with that, I have two.

I'm working on a 5 hp Briggs too. Had to diagnose why the compression was so bad, so I tore it all down and found out it was a bad valve. Now it's clean enough to eat on and I'm waiting for the Day of Reassembly. An exalted day to be sure. :D

You should be able to get decent power out of it for you and your son. I took my governor off and am re-using the racing header that came with it. So I'm going to drive on the limits of taxing the motor to death...

 

LeeMajors

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to the forum!

And this fellow Briggs fan welcomes you to the classic engine side. Seems 80% of the forum is populated by parts replacers. They buy a kart with an older engine on it, can't get it to run so they buy a Predator. Nothing wrong with that, I have two.

I'm working on a 5 hp Briggs too. Had to diagnose why the compression was so bad, so I tore it all down and found out it was a bad valve. Now it's clean enough to eat on and I'm waiting for the Day of Reassembly. An exalted day to be sure. :D

You should be able to get decent power out of it for you and your son. I took my governor off and am re-using the racing header that came with it. So I'm going to drive on the limits of taxing the motor to death...


Nice!!! Are you doing a build log on that engine? if so id love to chk it out! And thanks for the welcome man!:cheers2:
 

B.M.800

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Looks like the cam might have been used for reverse on the tiller?
Ide be tempted to rig up a reverse for the kart aswell.
 

chancer

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Nice!!! Are you doing a build log on that engine? if so id love to chk it out! And thanks for the welcome man!:cheers2:

Yeah Hellion! We sure would like to see your engine. Start a thread, Share the Knowledge. :toetap05:
 

LeeMajors

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Thanks to all of you for the welcome! I really appreciate it. And to B.M.800, I've got no idea if anything like that was done with the tiller but having reverse on ANY kart is a LOVELY addition for sure! So if I can make it happen I will surely try...? I've been looking into the exact model/type of B&S that engine is and it's pretty difficult to find much info on it. I was able to locate the "model" but all of the parts manuals etc. from Briggs don't have my "type" number listed? So I'm a bit confused by this?... But as far as I can see it appears as though all of the "type" numbers within each "model" number share the same spec'd core parts (ie. rods, pistons, valves, cam, head, etc...)? Someone plz correct me if I'm wrong tho? I'm just trying to figure these thing's out so I can get a better idea of the cost of aftermarket forged internals or IF they even offer those types of replacements for my particular engine!? I've been slowly taking her apart and it's a whole mess! Once I get a better idea of what I'm up against, and what my options are, I'll at least start an engine build log and upload all the pics I've been taking thus far. Thanks again fellas and if any of you know by chance how the Briggs model number system applies to their internals plz feel free to comment or shoot me a PM and enlighten me. Thx
 

Hellion

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I have a model 130200 series engine. In the Parts List booklet when dealing with the Type Number code, it describes how to find the correct number of the part you need:

The primary part is used on all type numbers except those type numbers listed under "Note".

If a "Note" appears below the Primary Part Number, it means that this part differs from the Primary Part for certain types. If your Type number is listed under "Note", order the part referred to at the "Note."

If your Engine Type Number does not appear after any part number listed under "Note", use the Primary Part Number.

For Engine Type Numbers not covered by this book, check other Parts Lists having the same engine model or contact your source of supply.

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 PM ----------

But as far as I can see it appears as though all of the "type" numbers within each "model" number share the same spec'd core parts (ie. rods, pistons, valves, cam, head, etc...)?

You are correct. For the most part, the entire range of engines in the Model Series share the same core parts.
 

Hellion

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Yes. Especially your model which appears to be at its core, a Raptor.

You appear to have the typical Raptor carb with the slide choke too.
 

B.M.800

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Thanks to all of you for the welcome! I really appreciate it. And to B.M.800, I've got no idea if anything like that was done with the tiller but having reverse on ANY kart is a LOVELY addition for sure! So if I can make it happen I will surely try...?

Well, for what its worth, Id think about using a tensioner setup that just uses a big hand lever down along the seat... or something to that effect.
 

LeeMajors

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Yes. Especially your model which appears to be at its core, a Raptor.

You appear to have the typical Raptor carb with the slide choke too.

NIIIICCCEEEE!!! And yea I'm pretty sure it's a slide choke... that's the best news I've hear all day! Thx man!

Well, for what its worth, Id think about using a tensioner setup that just uses a big hand lever down along the seat... or something to that effect.

That's a great idea! Simple and effective. Btw though, are we talking about the smaller pulley next to the main drive pulley? Thx!
 

B.M.800

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Looks like there is room for a regular clutch on there?


...now I want to find me one of those engines...
 

LeeMajors

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Lol! Thx guy's. Before I can even begin to focus on those questions though I have to get this bugger apart!? And at the moment I'm having a heck of a time getting the main shaft pulley OFF!? I got the set screw out np but the key, pulley, and main shaft are all pretty well rusted together!? Any suggestions?

Also, on a side note (I didn't know where to post this and didn't really want to start a whole new thread just to share it) I found a very informative article pertaining to B&S flatheads, that I thought everyone might find interesting? If you haven't already seen/read this article and you're into these flatheads (or the larger Tecumesh Star Motor) it's definitely worth a read, so check it out! Here's the link:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1998/04/small-engines-for-high-performance/
 
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