Old Buggy - New Build

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Slo-Poke

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Yeah, that's the fake 40 series I see on Amazon member's post from time to time.

I would not run it on such a heavy buggy with that engine.

But I like your buggy! I have a Powerland engine waiting to go into something very similar I have only built in my mind thus far.

I live and learn and I'm definitely learning on the fly here. Since the Driven appears to be unharmed, would a 40 Series Driver found here http://www.gokartsupply.com/4044seri.htm work with the current set-up or do I also need an upgrade for the Driven as well?

I thank everyone that has been providing info. It is much appreciated.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I live and learn and I'm definitely learning on the fly here. Since the Driven appears to be unharmed, would a 40 Series Driver found here http://www.gokartsupply.com/4044seri.htm work with the current set-up or do I also need an upgrade for the Driven as well?

I thank everyone that has been providing info. It is much appreciated.

No, the belts are different, I would suggest something like this,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Series-T...741091?hash=item4d1864cd23:g:VUAAAOSwUuFWw1Ts

Also a fake, or clone, or whatever, but of actual 40 series size.
 

Denny

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Don't freak out just yet. It may be the angle at which the picture was taken but I don't think you have the clutches lined up quite right. The driver seems to be moved in about 1/4" too close to the engine. Check it out to make sure all is properly aligned first. That misalignment would sure eat a belt up fast. Are the bolts tight on the back plate holding it to the engine? Let's determine why it failed before you throw more money and parts at it. :thumbsup:

Denny
 

Denny

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Looking at the pictures again I can see you DO NOT have the clutches lined up properly. Repair/replace the driver and buy a new high quality comet belt of the correct length and I'll bet you'll be golden then. :thumbsup: I'm surprised no one else caught that.

Denny
 

bob58o

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Looking at the pictures again I can see you DO NOT have the clutches lined up properly. Repair/replace the driver and buy a new high quality comet belt of the correct length and I'll bet you'll be golden then. :thumbsup: I'm surprised no one else caught that.

Denny

Would a spacer or a washer(s) on the crank do the trick?
 

Slo-Poke

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Looking at the pictures again I can see you DO NOT have the clutches lined up properly. Repair/replace the driver and buy a new high quality comet belt of the correct length and I'll bet you'll be golden then. :thumbsup: I'm surprised no one else caught that.

Denny

And if you add a little bit of float during operation, that would be more than enough to cook the belt. I examined the Driver and I may not need to replace it. It appears functional so it's time to find some spacer material and re-configure the alignment. Fortunately the TC kit came with two belts.
 

bob58o

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And if you add a little bit of float during operation, that would be more than enough to cook the belt. I examined the Driver and I may not need to replace it. It appears functional so it's time to find some spacer material and re-configure the alignment. Fortunately the TC kit came with two belts.

I think I used 3/4" washer for a 3/4" shaft, you got a 1" shaft right? :roflol:Sorry
 

Slo-Poke

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Buggy had to be ignored over the weekend as I was summoned to jump out of airplanes. I had a thought as I was waiting to get on the plane. The pilot was doing pre-flight and I was looking at the horizontal stabilizer and ailerons and I realized one of my primary flaws on the torque converter installation was not including the spacer on the end of the Driver because it had a 5/16” hole and my drive shaft required a 3/8”.

There were two problems and not having that spacer on the end of the Driver caused it to float. It’s called laziness and I’m dumber for it and paid the price. So I bored out the hole to allow for the 3/8” hex bolt to fit (Picture #1). I then need to pick a couple of spacers (1” ID flat washers) to line up the Driver with the Driven. Hopefully this will be the “Yahtzee” moment. Picture #2 is for my weekend reference and is much more exciting than Picture #1.

#1



#2
 

Eric87

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Did you ever think that the hole wasn't big enough cause the TC isn't big enough???
 

Poboy kartman

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Buggy had to be ignored over the weekend as I was summoned to jump out of airplanes. I had a thought as I was waiting to get on the plane. The pilot was doing pre-flight and I was looking at the horizontal stabilizer and ailerons and I realized one of my primary flaws on the torque converter installation was not including the spacer on the end of the Driver because it had a 5/16” hole and my drive shaft required a 3/8”.

There were two problems and not having that spacer on the end of the Driver caused it to float. It’s called laziness and I’m dumber for it and paid the price. So I bored out the hole to allow for the 3/8” hex bolt to fit (Picture #1). I then need to pick a couple of spacers (1” ID flat washers) to line up the Driver with the Driven. Hopefully this will be the “Yahtzee” moment. Picture #2 is for my weekend reference and is much more exciting than Picture #1.

#1



#2


Do you ever take DIY members up with your dirty laundry in their chute pack? If so....I have some candidates!

......carry on.....
 

bob58o

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So what was wrong with the Plane?

Can't you see the hole it in? Geez

---------- Post added at 04:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 AM ----------

If that engine is stock and only making 11HP, then that's only a bit more than what people say a stage 1 212 makes. People use 30 series TCs on Stage 1 212cc engines all the time.

Some people that race told me they use 30 series on 212's that make 15-20HP??????
This is what I'm going to try if my engine ever runs properly.

I think that TC could work with that engine.

BUT like the description says.... WITH PROPER GEARING

I don't think they mean 6:1 with 22" tires on a 500lb buggy.



All that being said...
Get it lined up properly and see.

Good luck!
 

Slo-Poke

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Picked up some 1" ID flat washers from Ace and the alignment of Driver and Driven is perfect. Threw on the new belt and ran the buggy and it seems OK up to this point. The TC seems to be engaging and turning properly with no wobbles and not burning up.

As for the engine, you are correct as there are no other modifications (at this point) so presumably its output is 11hp. It runs fast and strong enough as is. The only thing I expect to change is the header, air filter, add an inline fuel filter and replace the China spark plug.

If I burn up another belt then I will get a new Comet belt as opposed to the one that came with the TC kit. If I continue to burn up belts then I will pull the TC and get a 40 Series. Next step is to work on the brakes and throttle installation.
 

Slo-Poke

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With a 11HP engine you are going to burn belts faster than normal, as the 30 series is only rated for 8HP. If you are OK with that, then no worries

I suppose I could be like Poboy and say, "Thank you Captain Obvious" :cornut: but as I said in my previous post:

"If I burn up another belt then I will get a new Comet belt as opposed to the one that came with the TC kit. If I continue to burn up belts then I will pull the TC and get a 40 Series."

Right now $40 for a new belt is the more sensible financial solution as opposed to a new TC for $400. Two belts came with the current TC so I've spent nothing in that regard. The first belt blew up due to my own fault. As such, if I need to replace the TC with a 40 Series then I will make a new build with the old TC.
 
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