From scratch build

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MonsterBike

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About the gearbox, the clutches on snowmobiles give a lot of low end torque and a top speed of about 40 mph on a 340, maybe more on a TNT. I think that if a 340 can spin a 3-ish foot track on dry pavement and still go 40 mph, I think that there is no need for a gearbox. I have heard that there is a pretty good aftermarket for what I believe are "komet" clutches. They are used on lots of snowmobiles (ski doo anyways) and there are different springs etc. that change how the clutch engages (more top speed more low end etc.) . I know they were used on some Blizzard sleds, I don't know about a 340 TNT.

On the topic of the frame, I would think that mounting the motor on a swing-arm and having the axle on the same swing-arm that allows the motor/ axle to be independent of the rest of the kart. Does that make sense? Would it work?

Also, the post I made earlier, I hope it didn't sound like I was recommending you to run straight gas if the pump expired, :eek: I was trying to say that if you noticed the pump had stopped working, an old motor might be okay if it hadn't locked up yet. Just trying to make a case for oil injection.

BTW, Yes I like my 2-stroked "seasoned" :eek:
 

SkidooTNT

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Your right sleds have a lot of low end power. That said on a sled the sprocket that drives the track is only around 5 inches. I'd like to put 20 inch tires on to play in some mud so I'm going to need even more low end power. And as everyone has said my kart is going to be heavy. If probably leave it in the fasted gear all the time I'd just like to be able to have more power and not have to rebuild the jack shafts. As for clutching it's really popular here but I just got my first complete sled last year and don't have any experience with that yet.

As for the frame I'm just trying to do something different. I know having the motor on the swing is simpler but it's common when you start googling. Lots of 4 strokes are that way I'm not sure how a 2 stroke would like being bounced around like that though. Plus having it up looks way cooler. Lol

Don't worry about anything you post. Were all just Here to help each other out. It's not like we're all pro's here or anything.
 

chancer

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Volkswagen bug front ends. and Honda copied it for the Odysey mini buggies.

I am not saying put a vw front end on there. But the basic idea is simple. You would have to fab it.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Your right sleds have a lot of low end power. That said on a sled the sprocket that drives the track is only around 5 inches. I'd like to put 20 inch tires on to play in some mud so I'm going to need even more low end power. And as everyone has said my kart is going to be heavy. If probably leave it in the fasted gear all the time I'd just like to be able to have more power and not have to rebuild the jack shafts. As for clutching it's really popular here but I just got my first complete sled last year and don't have any experience with that yet.

As for the frame I'm just trying to do something different. I know having the motor on the swing is simpler but it's common when you start googling. Lots of 4 strokes are that way I'm not sure how a 2 stroke would like being bounced around like that though. Plus having it up looks way cooler. Lol

Don't worry about anything you post. Were all just Here to help each other out. It's not like we're all pro's here or anything.

Put the engine on a central piece of the frame, that runs between the rear tires. So it looks like an II coming off the cab area.

From there you can go out with A Arms, or back with trailing arms.
 

bread

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If I had a diff or the money for one I'd be all over a double trailing arm set up. You get so much ground clearance.

If you are going to do shaft drive with a diff (prob not very easy with just rwd), getting a diff shoudn't be an issue, I got mine for $25 at a junkyard. check junkyards, etc

diffs from smaller vehicles (utvs, gators) are harder to come by for cheap
 

SkidooTNT

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I think I'd need one from an ATV or something similar to handle the torque. Which would keep it out of my price range I think. Lots of the ones from lawn tractors and the like often have plastic gears in the diff. If you know any places for cheep Atv diffs I'll take a look though. I've never seen an Atv wrecker here.
 

Jrgunn5150

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You don't need a diff. You need a keyed shaft and two pillow blocks to hold it.
 

Jrgunn5150

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That is my current plan. Just would be awesome to have an independent suspension if I could find everything cheep.

I don't think you're following me lol, a short keyed shaft on two pillow blocks. At the end of that keyed shaft, should be flanges, to mount your CV's too.

I'm going to use S10 CV's and hub's, all in I'll have about 200 in the rear trailing arm suspension.
 

SkidooTNT

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Ya sorry I missed that. I think I see what your getting at now. Independent trailing arms both chain driven correct? How would I secure the trailing arms to the frame? My quad is that way with out the chain drive but it has giant bearings to support it. Something a little out of my budget.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Like this, not my pic, but where I got the idea from,




 

SkidooTNT

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Ya wow should have figured that out. that's the same as my quad. I just don't have the money for those axels. I'd love to do it that way though.

Is that your project? That's basically what I want to build but as a 2 seater.
 

Jrgunn5150

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No it's not my project, but I do have the S10 axles and wheel hubs, the axles were like 35 a piece, the hubs were even less. I went no name off Amazon lol.
 

SkidooTNT

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How much angle are they rated for? Can you get much extra ground clearance compaired to a straight live axel? That seems like a good deal I'll have to look at it.
 
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