Spray Paint Cracking?

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thisismyusername

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Ok so i primed, then painted my frame and everything was all good. But then right when i put the clear coat on it just immediately cracks up. Basically ruined the paint job. Not sure what to do because without the clear coating layers the paint just scratches right off. Anybody know why it did this and if i can stop it?
 

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thisismyusername

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Is the primer the same brand? How long did you wait between the colour & clear?

Yea primer is the same brand. I did the primer and one red layer last night, waited till tonight to do 2 layers of red. Waited about an hour to put on the clear coat, but the red paint was dry.

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

I have seen this happen if you don't allow your color to fully dry.

How long would you let the base dry before applying the clear? Because only part of my frame is screwed up. Would you suggest i scrape the old paint off where it screwed up and repaint, then wait a day or two before clear coating?
 

machinist@large

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Yea primer is the same brand. I did the primer and one red layer last night, waited till tonight to do 2 layers of red. Waited about an hour to put on the clear coat, but the red paint was dry.

---------- Post added at 07:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------



How long would you let the base dry before applying the clear? Because only part of my frame is screwed up. Would you suggest i scrape the old paint off where it screwed up and repaint, then wait a day or two before clear coating?

Traditional Rustoleum take's several day's to dry completely. Did you fully read the instructions to confirm that you were following them exactly????
 

thisismyusername

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Traditional Rustoleum take's several day's to dry completely. Did you fully read the instructions to confirm that you were following them exactly????

Just read the instructions again and they said to add a clear coat within an hour or after 48 hours. I read it and thought apply it after an hour. So i think im going to have to scrape the areas that were ruined and re paint them. Do you think that i should re-prime when i do these areas or just a red coat?
 

Poboy kartman

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Just read the instructions again and they said to add a clear coat within an hour or after 48 hours. I read it and thought apply it after an hour. So i think im going to have to scrape the areas that were ruined and re paint them. Do you think that i should re-prime when i do these areas or just a red coat?

UGHHHH..... This is a tough one....as these dadgum gremlins can come back....
 

Zombient

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I'm more of a Krylon guy myself. It dries faster and looks great as long as you don't rush it. I've always had issues with Rustolium. Although I do use their hammer finish quite often. Only downside is that it takes (What seems to be) years to cure.
 

Joe-405

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You should be able to sand the ugly spots out and touch it up with rustoleum paint. I have done it before on a sandrail frame. Or buy the crackle paint. Lol
 

ghost civic

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I had something similar happen to a power wheels I painted...I painted it and then went to add clear coat too soon. Mine didn't chip (different brand) but instead it made the color of the paint hazy and uneven. It never pays to rush when painting. And since Im not patient, I avoid painting at all cost..lol.
 

crazykart

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Lmao, hey now, I at least know how to tape stuff off, and disassemble things before painting.

Just think, all those old cars from back in your childhood (ok maybe not that far, they didn't have cars in the stone age) were painted with an enamel, what is rustoleum, an enamel.
 

thisismyusername

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Imo, strip it all back down, redo it right.

Well this is for a mini bike, and i have only clear coated the forks, so i dont think i will have to redo the main frame, but when i re do the forks and start to clear coat, do you recommend that i try to clear coat like how you first start with a primer? Like should i do small strips not trying to cover everything, or should i kind of paint it like its the second layer of primer where you try to cover up most spots?
 

crazykart

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If it's just the forks go ahead and strip those back down. Follow the directions on the cans to the T.

I personally wouldn't clear until after the 48 hours, just because rustoleum is oil based, and you don't want out gassing from the paint ruining the clear. Once the 48 hours is up give it a light scuffing with a scotch Brite pad, the green fiber ones, just enough to give the clear something to bite into. Your first coat of clear should be near complete coverage, but lightly done, just a misting basically. Next coat a touch thicker, and so on. Don't try to do just 2 coats, shoot for 4 or 5, it'll turn out better.

If you want that finish as hard as a rock I'll give you a tip. Oil based polyurethane, the kind for floors if you can find it in a spray can. It's compatible with the oil based rustoleum, will cure very hard, and gives a very good gloss look. I did a camaro this way, put on 2 gallons of poly, and it looked like glass over top of the paint. My son ran his bike into it a few weeks after, and not a single scratch.
 

thisismyusername

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If it's just the forks go ahead and strip those back down.

Ok would you even recommend using paint remover? I have a wire wheel that goes onto a drill but it is kind of hard because you really have to push to get all the paint off. I think there are like wire brush attachments for angle grinders at HF, would you recommend one of those?
 

Poboy kartman

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OK.....You are dealing with fresh paint....and not particularly tough anyway....so....Acetone. or Lacquer Thinner will both remove the finish in short order....it's really just a matter of preference.
 
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