burning up belts with my torque converter
- Thread starter johne1984
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that is indeed frustrating...
I think you'll have to order the belt you were talking about earlier then
Until then, what you could do to release some stress off the TC
is shave off a mm from the inside all around. (that's roughly 1/25" so grab a metric ruler)
That way you increase the internal circuference by a small amount, just big enough
to reduce the friction but not big enough to loose too much of the contact between belt and pullies.
that way you can still ride your bike while waiting for the new belt without having to pause every other minute to let it cool down again
'sid
I think you'll have to order the belt you were talking about earlier then
Until then, what you could do to release some stress off the TC
is shave off a mm from the inside all around. (that's roughly 1/25" so grab a metric ruler
)That way you increase the internal circuference by a small amount, just big enough
to reduce the friction but not big enough to loose too much of the contact between belt and pullies.
that way you can still ride your bike while waiting for the new belt without having to pause every other minute to let it cool down again
'sid
I wouldn't use a rotary tool to be honest but an exacto knife,
I know that's tedious but if you make some sort of tool
like a groove in a board where only 1mm of the belt is showing, it should be done pretty quick.
If you want to use a dremel be careful, let it work SLOWLY.. you do not want to overheat the belt, neither want to remove much more than the mm.
So it'll still take a while plus produce a lot of belt dust
another reason why I'd prefere a knife
'sid
I know that's tedious but if you make some sort of tool
like a groove in a board where only 1mm of the belt is showing, it should be done pretty quick.
If you want to use a dremel be careful, let it work SLOWLY.. you do not want to overheat the belt, neither want to remove much more than the mm.
So it'll still take a while plus produce a lot of belt dust
another reason why I'd prefere a knife
'sid
I'd probably screw it up if I tried. The comet I have on the bike seems to fit pretty nicely now that it's broken in a bit, it stays in neutral now without taking off, seems a bit cooler also.
Maybe you could help me with my other problem. Sometimes I drive into large puddles that for some reason shut the bike down. I put a kind of snorkel on my air filter which has been keeping all the water out of the engine, but still whenever I hit a huge puddle the engine dies an then takes a few minutes to start back up. I'm thinking maybe water is getting into my coil thing that's inside my pull cord thing. What do you think? If so can I plug up all those holes to keep water out?
Maybe you could help me with my other problem. Sometimes I drive into large puddles that for some reason shut the bike down. I put a kind of snorkel on my air filter which has been keeping all the water out of the engine, but still whenever I hit a huge puddle the engine dies an then takes a few minutes to start back up. I'm thinking maybe water is getting into my coil thing that's inside my pull cord thing. What do you think? If so can I plug up all those holes to keep water out?
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20140813_175935.jpg
well first.. that snorkel seems to be counterproductive to be honest..
it sits rather low, so water can enter the snorkel and...
even if the water is not getting into the carb it may be enough to stop the air from flowing;
that is if your airbox itself is watertight.. otherwise it doesn't help a bit
Anyways: snorkel...
I'd move it as far up as possible.. maybe under the tank
(if you don't find splashes there it should be safe to use that as the intake location)
Then, yes.. you can short the engine out with water at the coil,
but that'd mean your coil case is cracked... (external water is of NO ISSUE!)
if there are points under the flywheel, that those must be kept dry of course, but I doubt that.
(engine looks too young)
So what's more likely happening is this:
your low oil level protection shorts out.
(or original killswitch perhaps)
so check the wiring for unisolated parts (intentionally or because of a damage)
especially the thinner ones....
anything flimsy is more often than not more important than you'd think
When you're sure every wire is watertight and can not short, no way..
then check your coil and spark plug cable.
and if that's dry and in perfect condition too...
I'm out of ideas.
And no, you can not plug the breathing holes for your engine..
if you do it will overheat after some time.. that's not a good idea.
I know stationary engine.. all true... but it still needs to be aircooled by it's fan
'sid
it sits rather low, so water can enter the snorkel and...
even if the water is not getting into the carb it may be enough to stop the air from flowing;
that is if your airbox itself is watertight.. otherwise it doesn't help a bit
Anyways: snorkel...
I'd move it as far up as possible.. maybe under the tank
(if you don't find splashes there it should be safe to use that as the intake location
)Then, yes.. you can short the engine out with water at the coil,
but that'd mean your coil case is cracked... (external water is of NO ISSUE!)
if there are points under the flywheel, that those must be kept dry of course, but I doubt that.
(engine looks too young
)So what's more likely happening is this:
your low oil level protection shorts out.
(or original killswitch perhaps)
so check the wiring for unisolated parts (intentionally or because of a damage)
especially the thinner ones....
anything flimsy is more often than not more important than you'd think
When you're sure every wire is watertight and can not short, no way..
then check your coil and spark plug cable.
and if that's dry and in perfect condition too...
I'm out of ideas.
And no, you can not plug the breathing holes for your engine..
if you do it will overheat after some time.. that's not a good idea.
I know stationary engine.. all true... but it still needs to be aircooled by it's fan
'sid
Yes that's a bad picture of the snorkel, It can be moved under the fake tank. So far it's keeping the water out I'm just trying to protect from splashes I'm not crossing anything to deep.
Okay I'll check my wires and I'll cover everything that isn't covered with electrical tape. My spark plug wire looks bad, the outside covering is cracked.
Oh those are breathing holes to cool down the engine, cool. I'm learning new things everyday
Thank you
Okay I'll check my wires and I'll cover everything that isn't covered with electrical tape. My spark plug wire looks bad, the outside covering is cracked.
Oh those are breathing holes to cool down the engine, cool. I'm learning new things everyday
Thank you
kart bruiser
New member
yes 5959 belts are made for aftermarket 127 dollar torque converters
it is a smidge correction a minute excess but still properly engages and mine doesnt get too hot but it does get hot enough to burn me if i left it on for 10 seconds
i have a place i buy them online for 14 or 16 with free shipping
i will find link
it is a smidge correction a minute excess but still properly engages and mine doesnt get too hot but it does get hot enough to burn me if i left it on for 10 seconds
i have a place i buy them online for 14 or 16 with free shipping
i will find link
kart bruiser
New member
gopowersports store on ebay they are 12.65 with free shipping
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