Right now my miter saw has a blade it came with. It's impossible to read what it is...
Ultralight Rev-Tri-Go-Kart build
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Right now my miter saw has a blade it came with. It's impossible to read what it is...
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
If it's a carbide tipped blade, I'd try it first. What brand miter saw and how old is it?
Do you have a jigsaw and belt sander (brands as well. ...)?
I think I have this, 10" Ryobi.
http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Recon...pound-Miter/dp/B00AOAG7TE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3
No jigsaw, no beltsander. I have a nice little Bosch orbital sander
http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Recon...pound-Miter/dp/B00AOAG7TE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3
No jigsaw, no beltsander. I have a nice little Bosch orbital sander
exenos
Project Nut
If your saw has the same blade that is pictured then I wouldn't try it with that blade, too few teeth.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Yeah and I wouldn't the other blade either- You could buy the aluminum online- have it shipped to another member to fabricate and have it shipped back for less than the cost of the blade. That nice Bosch orbital will take a lot of time and sandpaper to smooth out either cut.
Tell ya what- PM me the details of what you want fabricated. I'm thinking someone else may jump in here, but I might be able to help you out for very little $$$$.
Why? With that $50 blade, people saying in amazon reviews - they cut 3/8 aluminum plates like butter.
It's very nice of you to offer! I'm just contemplating being able to manufacture some smaller parts with 2D desing from 1/4 and 3/8 aluminum plate. Like motor mount, brake caliper bracket, some steering components...
It would be awesome and preferable if I could just order them online, but all the shops I know are just unreasonably expensive for what I'm doing (kids toy!)
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
I must have missed THOSE reviews. I saw on that cut 1/8"- you are talking about 3/8" -3× as much. I can already see how you are. .....you want advice and answers as long as they are what you want to hear. Just buy the dannemed blade, but just so you're not dissappointed- pick up a f'ng stick of butter while you're at it. ......I'm out of here.....
machinist@large
Active member
Hey, Vlad; where are you in relation to the Grand Rapids MI area, and how many cuts are you planning on needing to make? I don't have the shop equipment I had a couple of years ago, but I still have a metal cutting band saw, circular saw, grinders, drill press etc.
I'm N. of Lowell, about 15 minutes east of GR....
Pat
I'm N. of Lowell, about 15 minutes east of GR....
Pat
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Erhummmn- as I was saying.....you can can listen and learn or you can be Mr. Burger King. .....It's your money- have it your way.......
I'm south of Lowell, Caledonia/Alto area!!!
machinist@large
Active member
I just posted a response in your thread about cad files; sorry if it comes off a little on the heavy end, it's just that it was the truth.
What exactly are you trying to make? While CAD files are great, I've seen plenty that were just abstract art, and had the engineering dept. come back from a lunch gig with the customer with the drawings I actually needed sketched out on a soggy bar napkin. What I'm trying to tell you is that we (everyone else on the forum) needs pictures; the fact that we're all communicating on a web site is just further proof that we all flunked mind reading in school.
Give us some pic's!!!
Well, right now I'm trying to figure out how to do the front wheel hubs/spindle. See all the steering details are missing from the tri-kart plans at the top? Given that center of the wheel is about an inch higher then the top of 80/20 beam of my low riding go-kart - it's not a trivial task.
I'm thinking about using two rod-ends in my interpretation of this design:
So if I decide to do it this way - I'll need aluminum hub(#1) and aluminum plate (#2) This way I'll be able to use some titanium bolt off of ebay for an axle, saving a lot of weight.
Moving top rod end in/out will let me easily adjust camber. It's also possible to modif this design to make adjustable caster but that's just too much even for me. I'll just stay with 10*
I can do some primitive CAD. Check out the Pinion&Pinion gears I designed for the Spyder. I wanted car-like feel for the steering, and these gears allow me to pick tall steering ratio, not just 60-90* like on a go-kart. I currently have 180* lock-to-lock.
And yes, I know it's not exactly ackerman geometry. But I have some toe-out on front wheels that compensate for that. Steering is very nice, easy, accurate, and responsive, believe it or not.
And yes, I know it's not exactly ackerman geometry. But I have some toe-out on front wheels that compensate for that. Steering is very nice, easy, accurate, and responsive, believe it or not.
Ok, I think I figured out exactly how to attach the front wheels with minumum parts/weight and with max flexibility. This way it all attaches to 80/20 beam, and I can actually slide the whole assembly back and forth - changing wheel base, if necessary
And this is the hub, out of 1" aluminum plate
And this is the hub, out of 1" aluminum plate
machinist@large
Active member
Ok, I think I figured out exactly how to attach the front wheels with minumum parts/weight and with max flexibility. This way it all attaches to 80/20 beam, and I can actually slide the whole assembly back and forth - changing wheel base, if necessary
And this is the hub, out of 1" aluminum plate
Face mounting the plate to the side of the rail (photo #1) using only one face's T slot is one of the fastest ways to just about gaurentee that you have problems with the T-nuts ripping out the edge of the rail. I'm speaking from experience here; the screws and T-nuts are a lot stronger than the rail, and will (eventually) pound their way out when dynamically loaded in that way.
You need to engage at least 1 other edge (the bottom); adding the top as well would be great. You need to remember; when using the T-nut connectors, you are only achieving a clamp type connection, NOT a thru bolted connection.
As for your spindle idea, two changes for strength; make the current 1" thickness at least 1.5", and drill the pivot hole straight thru. If you leave it at 1", then you'll only have 3/16" (.1875", ~.47mm) per side; that's way thinner than I'm personally comfortable with. This piece needs to be extruded matl.; most grades of cast won't be strong enough.
The two tapped holes? Built in stress points, and trying to keep them tight will be problematic. One smooth thru hole 1/2" (.500", ~12.7mm) will be considerably stronger, as well as much easier to keep tight, as it would be one steel thru bolt (preferably a grade 8). Again, adding the extra 1/2" takes the thickness per side from 1/4" to 1/2" (6.35mm up to 12.7mm).
And the final thought? If you insist on CNC'ing that part, that's your call. If you're more interested in just the "Fit, Form, & Function" rule, I've got the equipment to do the major work; how you decide to polish them would be your call.....
Pat
I'm with Pat here.. as a base you want something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-Series-Bearing/dp/B006YVZ2B6
just add t-nuts (you might need to cut parts off the glide pads)
well with a double flange, either upright or horizontal...
http://download.8020.net/2011_Product_Catalog/Fractional_Section_9_8020_Catalog_17.pdf
'sid
http://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-Series-Bearing/dp/B006YVZ2B6
just add t-nuts (you might need to cut parts off the glide pads)
well with a double flange, either upright or horizontal...
http://download.8020.net/2011_Product_Catalog/Fractional_Section_9_8020_Catalog_17.pdf
'sid
machinist@large
Active member
'Sid, the first one has the cross section I'd recommend, but that actual part is designed to turn a standard rail into a structural component in a sliding system. It's used to make custom machines, with that part being a three sided sliding bearing. It's not designed or intended to be a fixed component.
The second one was a link to big for my internet connection; can't open it tonight....
Well, I was suspecting it'll be the weak point. But I have to constantly remind myself to not over-engineer. Chinese kids cars at wallmart use all plastic, and hold up just fine (although at slower speeds).
What if bolt it all the way through in two places with 1.5x1.5 backing plates on the other side?
Engaging more than one face of t-slot means I can't use a flat plate anymore. That complicates things a lot
The kingpin whole(s) is 3/8 or 7/16, that leaves plenty of wall, over 1/4" in each case. Multiplied by 2" of height - i don't think it's going anywhere. But it's possible to go with 1.25 thick plate, I guess.
I was considering two holes vs straight through kingpin and decided two will be stronger - as they leave a solid crossection in the middle of the part. And this is all static connection - the rotation will occur at the balls in the rod ends. But I can be wrong. Straight through is surely easier to do.
For the axle hole - yeah, 1.25 aluminum will be probably better.
And it'll make the business of adding control arm easier. I'll just drill two small holes on 1.25 side and attach the arm.
I want arm to be separate and replaceable part. First of all - it WILL bend during accidents. And second it'll make steering setup/adjustments easy.
And the final thought? If you insist on CNC'ing that part, that's your call. If you're more interested in just the "Fit, Form, & Function" rule, I've got the equipment to do the major work; how you decide to polish them would be your call.....
I don't insist on anything. I just need to make this part. The way I simplified the part - it can be made from flat piece, with simple tools you have! I just need to buy rims first to finalize the dimensions. Right now i only have tires.
Do you think it's necessary to drill the axle hole through? I was hoping it can be just taped hole, so I don't need no nuts, just one bolt and lots of locktite. The wheel will have bearings, so this is non-moving part will only need to withstand vibrations.
Yes, something like that, hugging on 3 sides, but without plastic inserts would be right. But this particular part costs $60 each in 15 series. And it'll be flexing because of plastic inserts.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
How to put this-...." looking for love in all the wrong places...."
I think you are much too quick to focus on one solution and then spend too much time "over-engineering" to fit a flawed concept instead of revisiting the original concept and looking for solutions to eliminate the need to overcomplicate and "over-engineer" the solution. The best solutions are usually the easiest. ... You seem to be very hung up on this extruded aluminum piece and ignoring the great lengths you are going to to use it.
Also- Why do you need all this adjustment in camber in a non-suspension kart. A few minutes studying the "Akerman" thread and you would have the knowledge to build a steering system simply and correctly the first time. ...
Just saying. .....
I think you are much too quick to focus on one solution and then spend too much time "over-engineering" to fit a flawed concept instead of revisiting the original concept and looking for solutions to eliminate the need to overcomplicate and "over-engineer" the solution. The best solutions are usually the easiest. ... You seem to be very hung up on this extruded aluminum piece and ignoring the great lengths you are going to to use it.
Also- Why do you need all this adjustment in camber in a non-suspension kart. A few minutes studying the "Akerman" thread and you would have the knowledge to build a steering system simply and correctly the first time. ...
Just saying. .....
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