advice on painting

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bluethunder3320

New member
Messages
5,677
Reaction score
39
i got a tecumseh 6.5 and its in bad shape. needs exhaust, piston, ignition, and carb. its down to the block... lots of things living in it!! the oil was like molasses, maybe worse! i cleaned it, but the paint is flaked off and disgusting.

what do you guys recommend for high temp paint?
what is powder coat?
can i do all the paint with $40?

p.s. it is like 50 years old.....

thanks!:thumbsup:
 

Bluethunder3320

New member
Messages
5,677
Reaction score
39
any kind in particular? and what is powder coat? i think my engine is aluminum.

see im new to the painting world.
 

DustinWolfe

New member
Messages
204
Reaction score
0
Location
Meridian, Idaho
well in my experience hi temp paint is kinda a joke. really id have to say you get what you pay for. powder coating would be good but its not really feasible on an engine because of the way its done. that por15 looked like pretty good stuff but i cant attest as ive never used it(also i dont know if its ok on hi temp.)
 

DustinWolfe

New member
Messages
204
Reaction score
0
Location
Meridian, Idaho
yea that looks pretty good. ive never actually had a problem at all with duplicolor. i painted my quad frame with it and duplicolor clearcoat it came out BEAUTIFUL. just make sure to prime it with a color that wont show through (ie. white primer w black topcoat) otherwise youll end up spraying like 30 coats(exageration) this is off a website(interior paint but the theory is the same)The problem is simply this…(and I’m simplifying this a bit) -

Most paint is 80% to 90% white paint base plus 10% to 20% pigment for coloration. This is important, because it is the paint base which covers…the pigment merely adds the necessary tint.

With many tones of red paint (and a few reddish-purples and oranges, as well), much more pigment is added to create the desired color. The ratio of base to pigment is noticeably more even, say 70:30. This results in a much “thinner” paint.

Thin paint does not cover well.

Painting with red becomes a very painstaking process. Coat after coat after coat, the base coat (even if the base coat is white) shows through.

One of my first professional paint jobs was red on a large kitchen and adjoining dining room. I had certainly used red paint before, but mostly in small settings, with accent walls and faux finishes.

I knew it did not cover well, so I prepared myself for numerous coats. My psyche was not prepared for one coat of red primer and eight - eight! - coats of paint, all on a very large area.

I felt like I was trying to run a marathon on a treadmill. I kept working at it, but it seemed like I was getting nowhere.

I have heard horror stories of people applying ten…even up to a dozen coats of red simply to achieve an even appearance.

Needless to say, I never forgot about that experience and kept all of my future estimates for red paint jobs fairly generous.

this should explain
 

Bluethunder3320

New member
Messages
5,677
Reaction score
39
very nice....

the engine is an ugly fading white and im not sure if i will need some base under it. well if i do that does double the cost... i have $40 to spend this week pretty much... i need 10 for welding wire.

i also need for this engine:

carb
piston
points (probably upgrade to electronic)
clutch

so you can tell its a mess..... im not ever going to ditch it for a clone though. it should be real nice when done.
 

DustinWolfe

New member
Messages
204
Reaction score
0
Location
Meridian, Idaho
The block wont hot enough to require high-temp paint, So don't waste your money on it.

its not really about requirements anyway. engines typically like to run at 180-230 degrees(not all so dont flame me about this) Thats higher than id subject your basic krylon to. id say do it cause its better to know for sure that it wont burn. worst case scenario youve spent an extra 5 dollars. seems worth it to me solely for the peace of mind.
 

Doc Sprocket

*********
Messages
15,677
Reaction score
152
Location
Ontario, Canada
yea that looks pretty good. ive never actually had a problem at all with duplicolor. i painted my quad frame with it and duplicolor clearcoat it came out BEAUTIFUL. just make sure to prime it with a color that wont show through (ie. white primer w black topcoat) otherwise youll end up spraying like 30 coats(exageration) this is off a website(interior paint but the theory is the same)The problem is simply this…(and I’m simplifying this a bit) -

Most paint is 80% to 90% white paint base plus 10% to 20% pigment for coloration. This is important, because it is the paint base which covers…the pigment merely adds the necessary tint.

With many tones of red paint (and a few reddish-purples and oranges, as well), much more pigment is added to create the desired color. The ratio of base to pigment is noticeably more even, say 70:30. This results in a much “thinner” paint.

Thin paint does not cover well.

Painting with red becomes a very painstaking process. Coat after coat after coat, the base coat (even if the base coat is white) shows through.

One of my first professional paint jobs was red on a large kitchen and adjoining dining room. I had certainly used red paint before, but mostly in small settings, with accent walls and faux finishes.

I knew it did not cover well, so I prepared myself for numerous coats. My psyche was not prepared for one coat of red primer and eight - eight! - coats of paint, all on a very large area.

I felt like I was trying to run a marathon on a treadmill. I kept working at it, but it seemed like I was getting nowhere.

I have heard horror stories of people applying ten…even up to a dozen coats of red simply to achieve an even appearance.

Needless to say, I never forgot about that experience and kept all of my future estimates for red paint jobs fairly generous.

this should explain

Good info, Dustin- I'm a painter by trade and that stuff is not commonly known to your average Joe. I would also like to add that yellows have a tendency to be brutal, and anything in a deep tint base. Deep base has no white at all, and before the tint pigments are added, is quite translucent.
 

Cam

Nz Petrolhead
Messages
487
Reaction score
2
Location
Whangarei, New Zealand
I meant high - temp rattle can engine enamel dude, and yes you do need high temp, normal rattle can will burn off, and you will definitly need high - temp for the exhaust.

I went and bought a couple of cans from bunnings warehouse @ 12 dollars a can- flat/gloss, i dont think it would be dearer in the usa.
 

Bluethunder3320

New member
Messages
5,677
Reaction score
39
i totally forgot i posted this! lol.

well here is what the thing looks like now in its second life.

its ceramic paint 500 degree.

 

bighead

New member
Messages
4,022
Reaction score
54
Location
Pacific Northwest USA
Por15 Hardnose. 700 degree safe. Chemical resistent. Spill all the gas you want and it will not eat the paint. Oh yah, beat on it all you want with no effect. Brush it on as well. Then have your friend try to scratch it with a screw driver. LOL

Por15 also makes engine Enamals just for motors. On V-8 that I have seen painted have always peeled around and under the exhaust ports. I have read great reviews about the Por15 holding up under many years. Also brake fluid has no effect on Hardnose and maybe other por15 products. We all know brake fluid is paint killer.

What really sold me to Por15 is you get a amazing finish with out all the spraying,mixing,cleaning,baking. It is perfect for people that do not have all the paint gear.

You might have to split the cases though. I bet por15 would weld your covers on. Not Joking!
 

Wim

Jazz Maverick
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Location
Oz
Coating the cooling fins in paint will reduce their ability to radiate heat.
Better to sandblast the fins back to bare metal. Or if you really have to, a light coat of exhaust black.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top