Your thoughts on securing floorpan!

[Br@ndoM@n]

Hey, im currently tearing apart my kart and i ground down the weld on the floorpan and removed it cause its crap. Who ever did it managed only two good welds. I am gonna make a new one. The plan is to make a pan that run the whole length and width of the kart, so that the pan also acts as a skid plate for the front and make a integrated chain guard underneath too. I want both the pan and guard underneath removable without having to grind out welds and then having to grind it flat without messing up the tube frame.
was wondering if anyone has welded tabs to the frame then either riveted the pan on or used sheetmetal screws to fasten it on and if so how well did it work for u.

I was leaning towards the rivet idea since I dont have to worry about a screw petruding underneath and getting ripped out. What are your thoughts?

 

[Jimmy_B]

I've done exactly that before. Nuts and bolts so it is removable and no worries about protruding sheet metal screws. I actually used Dzuz fasteners.

 

[OzFab]

All I'm gonna say is read this...

Oh wait, one more thing: You may want to rethink the "full length" idea; some of the air to cool the engine comes from under the kart, closing it off may create overheating issues...

 

[jjarkys]

I use these. Handy because they are threaded.

http://www.kartek.com/Product/282/Permanent-Nut-Radius-Tabs.aspx

 

[machinist@large]

All I'm gonna say is read this

Oh wait, one more thing: You may want to rethink the "full length" idea; some of the air to cool the engine comes from under the kart, closing it off may create overheating issues...

Tony, for those of us in the know, your work is awesome. On to the question #2.

The only real problem I see with a full length pan under the the cart is that, until he tests it, he won't know how much dust and debris is going to be back flushed into the engine area. As long as the top, both sides, and the rear are still fully open, he shouldn't have to worry about recycling of the cooling air from the motor.

Any large amounts of crud being pressurized under the kart by the full length floor, though, will be a major concern. When the kart passes over it, depending on speed, it could very well be a problem as it gets sucked up into the low pressure area behind the kart. Think about how dust gets sucked up from a gravel road to totally cover the back end of any vehicle that travels at more that a slow crawl...


I think this question needs to be looked at the same way as the Rally Car teams look at it; they streamline the underside of the car because it does help, but the run a pretty prominent air-dam under the front bumper to deflect as much air as possible from passing under the car as possible.

I use these. Handy because they are threaded.

http://www.kartek.com/Product/282/Permanent-Nut-Radius-Tabs.aspx

If you only need a half dozen or so of these, that price is a real steal. The more of them you need, though, you'll have to cost justify them to yourself. How much is your personal time worth? Only you can decide that....

 

[OzFab]

I use these. Handy because they are threaded.

http://www.kartek.com/Product/282/Permanent-Nut-Radius-Tabs.aspx

With the correct tools (a suitable tap & a hacksaw) an equivelant can be made using 1/4" flat stock; just FYI

Tony, for those of us in the know, your work is awesome.

Thanks Pat, coming from you, that means a lot

Any large amounts of crud being pressurized under the kart by the full length floor, though, will be a major concern. When the kart passes over it, depending on speed, it could very well be a problem as it gets sucked up into the low pressure area behind the kart. Think about how dust gets sucked up from a gravel road to totally cover the back end of any vehicle that travels at more that a slow crawl...

I think this question needs to be looked at the same way as the Rally Car teams look at it; they streamline the underside of the car because it does help, but the run a pretty prominent air-dam under the front bumper to deflect as much air as possible from passing under the car as possible.

They also use a rather large rear spoiler to deflect air flow; have you ever seen one of those in action in the wet?

 

[firemanjim]

I used 5/32" pop rivets to put the aluminum floor pan into my sandrail. Works great and can always drill it out and re rivet in same hole with no problems.
I also agree with Pat, in that you dont really want a full length pan. There is a reason kart mfgs dont do that, and its not just money. Too much dirt/dust sucked into your motor will bring riding time to a halt....

 

[fowler]

To start making weld nuts u would have to be keen

Being as they're only 1.50 each at the gates are store

Not knowing this at the time I built my first buggy I just welded 10 mm nuts straight on to the side of the frame

On my newer buggy the floor pan will be held on my a hinge at the front then an arrangement if clips along the side

So I can just take it to the wash bays and drop the floor pan with ease to let all the mud fall out

 

[machinist@large]

With the correct tools (a suitable tap & a hacksaw) an equivelant can be made using 1/4" flat stock; just FYI

Totally agreed. It all comes down to what the OP feels is the best use of their time and money... You and I (and probably a whole lot of other members) find a lot more pride in what they've managed to build/ salvage/ resuscitate than just what they've gone out and bought (that being said, if a Chevy 3500 Silverado Dually w/ 4WD and the Duramax magically landed in my driveway with a '14 Z51 Corvette on a trailer, both with my name on the titles/ with full receipts, I would be singing to the four winds).....

Thanks Pat, coming from you, that means a lot

Heck, Tony, you've more than earned it; the "individual's" that I have real problems with are the ones who wander in, throw their names out, and think I'm supposed to treat them like the second coming of " ".

They also use a rather large rear spoiler to deflect air flow; have you ever seen one of those in action in the wet?

Are you talking about a spoiler on the trunk/ rear hatch? Or something under the rear bumper (rear splitter/ diffuser)?

I used 5/32" pop rivets to put the aluminum floor pan into my sandrail. Works great and can always drill it out and re rivet in same hole with no problems.
I also agree with Pat, in that you dont really want a full length pan. There is a reason kart mfgs dont do that, and its not just money. Too much dirt/dust sucked into your motor will bring riding time to a halt....

Jim, your logic is sound, but I could use a little more detailed information....

To start making weld nuts u would have to be keen

Being as they're only 1.50 each at the gates are store

Not knowing this at the time I built my first buggy I just welded 10 mm nuts straight on to the side of the frame

On my newer buggy the floor pan will be held on my a hinge at the front then an arrangement if clips along the side

So I can just take it to the wash bays and drop the floor pan with ease to let all the mud fall out

Welcome to the "Live and learn, or you don't live long!!!" club Fowler!!!

 

[OzFab]

Are you talking about a spoiler on the trunk/ rear hatch? Or something under the rear bumper (rear splitter/ diffuser)?

Upper/trunk/hatch spoiler.

FYI: If i'd meant lower I would've said splitter

 

[KartFab]

I riveted cabinet runner (found in home depot in the closet/cabinet section) on top of the steel floor pan in a kart I am currently working on. I did it for looks, not really anything else. I would personally just stitch weld the floor pan on, but that's because I love to weld.

 

[firemanjim]

I cut 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/16" tabs and welded along the inner perimeter. Then I cut the plate to fit inside with a small gap all around to aid in washing it. Once in place, I predrilled my holes then put in the rivets....