I have a 2003 yerf dog cart with a 1 inch live axle which I have done numerous upgrades. I am now needing to do some work on changing the sprocket. The problem is, I cant get the bearings off. They are the type that sandwich between 2 sheet metal mounts and have set screws. The set screws have been removed. Do these bearings press on, or do they just slide on? I am thinking that they are just rusted in place, but looking for a definitive answer before I pay to have someone press them off and on.
Yerf Dog live axle bearing question
- Thread starter Jeep8589
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devino246
Official DIYGK Chem Nerd
They should slide off, although paint, dirt, and/or rust can get them pretty stuck. Try spraying some PB Blaster on 'em.
And welcome to DIYGK!
And welcome to DIYGK!
Bluethunder3320
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welcome to the forum. remove the set screws and they should move.... id get a piece of metal and a hammer and tap them off
jeremybentham
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Lightly sand the axle, with 100 grit or finer, to get all the dirt/rust/filth/muck off, spray with PB or other lube and it'll slide right off.
I use a narrow strip of sandpaper in a 'shoe-shiney' motion around the axle.
I use a narrow strip of sandpaper in a 'shoe-shiney' motion around the axle.
jeremybentham
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Thanks man. I guess our domain lapsed. Whoops. Sorry bout that all.
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JEEP
Removing the collar on a flange mounted bearing can be a chore if you don't know whats going on inside. The lock ring is rotated onto the snout of the bearing race to lock it on to the shaft. The set screws keep it from backing off. It is the cam locking action that is difficult to understand only because unless educated on the item, people just have no way to know that the collar has to spin backwards before you can pull it and the bearing off the shaft. Look at a new part on the shelf to get a better idea of how it works. It will only lock when a shaft is on both the collar and the bearing. However, if you look thru the bearing with the collar on the snout, and spin it, you'll clearly see how the locking action works.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/insert-bearing-sa205-16-1-in--1195167
Also if you look closely you can see that the thickness from the inside of the bearing to the lip on the snout varies in thickness, same goes for the collar. Maybe 1/32" or less. The cam lock action is also called an eccentric lock.
Removing the collar on a flange mounted bearing can be a chore if you don't know whats going on inside. The lock ring is rotated onto the snout of the bearing race to lock it on to the shaft. The set screws keep it from backing off. It is the cam locking action that is difficult to understand only because unless educated on the item, people just have no way to know that the collar has to spin backwards before you can pull it and the bearing off the shaft. Look at a new part on the shelf to get a better idea of how it works. It will only lock when a shaft is on both the collar and the bearing. However, if you look thru the bearing with the collar on the snout, and spin it, you'll clearly see how the locking action works.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/insert-bearing-sa205-16-1-in--1195167
Also if you look closely you can see that the thickness from the inside of the bearing to the lip on the snout varies in thickness, same goes for the collar. Maybe 1/32" or less. The cam lock action is also called an eccentric lock.
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I may have assumed more than I know. It would appear that not all self aligning bearings have the lock collar design. This picture shows a good range of the variations. I've only seen the ones with the cam locks mentioned in the prior post. If you look real close in the drawing attached here is that the lock colar design has a blind hole for a spanner wrench to turn the collar. Hope this helps you.
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ovalflangeunitspressedsteel_71859.jpg
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