Yerf Dog GX150 Front suspension build?

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dbwert

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Hey all,


Im new here. I apologize if this is a topic thats already been discussed but I've been searching. Seen alot of different ideas on the web but looking for some advice on what would work best for our kart.


Got a Yerf Dog GX150 Kart. I ended up breaking the lower A-Arm for the front suspension. Im looking to either weld on metal plates to beef it up or was curious if they make sturdier, better A-Arms for this kart? Anyone have any PT#'s or links if so?


I am also looking to put some knobbier tires on the front, tire size is 15x6-6. I have searched high and low and am not able to find any knobby tires in that size. Only turf savers. Anyone know if such a tire size exists with knobbies or would a bigger rim be needed for bigger tires with knobs?

Thanks in advance! :)
 

dbwert

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Yes you bet. I included a few pics. Thank you. :surrender:
 

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Flyinhillbilly

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I think a 145/70/6 is about the same size and you can get those in knobbies. As far as the control arm goes to could probably cut off that plate and weld on a heavier one, or possibly even stack one on the old one using the existing ball joint hole as a guide.
 

Randy H

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Like the guy from Lake Titicaca says.

Looks like a sweet kart. If probably beef up all the A-arms. At least put a radical engine in it, take some of the weight off the front.

The thought of something like that breaking at a high rate of fuel consumption is a little bit freaking scary. That's factory. Think about all the slagged together homemade steering components out there.
 

dbwert

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Thanks for the replies! Will look into those tires. Would like to get some knobbier ones for the rear too, better traction.


It has the 7.8 hp howitt engine. It moves out pretty good. Top speed about 35 mph factory. Certainly would not want the front end blowing apart at those speeds. We take it easy (semi-rough terrain) in the field we ride in. (The one in the pic) Every now and then the kid comes out in me. :thumbsup:


I found factory replacement A-Arms on ebay for about 50 bucks each. Not going to get those and have the same issue. Thought about welding a plate on top as you had mentioned, then just drill my own hole for the ball joint. Seems to be a common problem on these. Cant believe they do not make beefier ones out there. :huh:
 

cavfire

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I would replace the ball joints with heim joints + misalignment spacers. This will require cutting off the tabs and drilling the end of the control arms to fit and weld the threaded bungs on. Would go 1/2" heims myself.
 

Flyinhillbilly

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I would replace the ball joints with heim joints + misalignment spacers. This will require cutting off the tabs and drilling the end of the control arms to fit and weld the threaded bungs on. Would go 1/2" heims myself.

This is a solid idea too, and would probably be less work in the long run.
 

KartFab

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Yerf dog had a recall because of this problem. They supplied beefier joints but those also have problems. They also went out of business because they made crappy go karts at rock bottom prices without accounting for all the things that would go wrong.

The front suspension framing has also been known to snap off. This problem is well documented and lots of people pimp these karts out over at minibuggy.net.
 

dbwert

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Thanks for all the info guys. Appreciate it. I dont want to sound dumb but I am trying to follow how the heim joints would mount. When you mentioned about cutting off the "tabs" what tabs are you referring to?


I found these - if they are correct for me to use?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECON-1-2-x-...ash=item564b7986d3:g:KZMAAOSwF1dUUmLp&vxp=mtr


I did not know they went out of business. No surprise. I would say a poor design for sure with the front end. To many moving parts and not enough beef. Do you know if the recall was only for carts under warranty? I will be sure to check out minibuggy. Thank you.
 

dbwert

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I would replace the ball joints with heim joints + misalignment spacers. This will require cutting off the tabs and drilling the end of the control arms to fit and weld the threaded bungs on. Would go 1/2" heims myself.


Thanks cavfire. I asked the question a bit to soon. I understand what you mean now with cutting off the tabs. I found these pics elsewhere of a build that I believe you are talking about.

This set up will also give me adjustment for camber in and out because of the threaded bung, correct? Also, do you still recommend mis-alignment spacers if I do a build like this in the pictures? Thanks.
 

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dbwert

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If you want a better selection of Rod ends check here,,,,
https://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=1200e51

Wow, thank you Bubba, what a selection. I assume I could go with any desired size just so it wasnt bigger than the A-Arm for the hole I'll have drill. I'd think the bigger the rod end, the better.

---------- Post added at 08:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 AM ----------

Not sure, but a recall is a recall and should be honored. Not sure about the company being out of business now though. The owner is still trying to weasel his way back into the market though.

A few more helpful links
http://www.buggydepot.com/model/1/9/yerf-dog-spiderbox-gx150-steering-and-suspension-parts.html

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/

Thank you KartFab. I just signed up over at buggymasters too. I assume most of you guys are on there too?


Since the company is out of business, I wasnt sure if they had a 1-800 number to call for the recall or how that worked. :mad:
 

cavfire

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Dbwert those pictures are exactly what I'm talking about. As far as the misalignment spacers they increase the max angle of the heim joints, which is needed when used on a front suspension like yours. I have a Baja Blaster 65 full suspension kart with heims on the front and have worked out well. I had to remake my spindles, very similar to what's pictured, after one of the OEM cast spindles took a dump and did the conversion.

If you can get replacements through recall then by all means do so. I'd still mod the old A-arms for using heim joints though. On another note, the rear axles are another weak link iirc. Good luck with the new kart!
 

dbwert

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Ok thank you. I pulled both A-Arms off. It appears in the pictures that he drilled holes and then just welded the rod ends on the A-Arm. Im assuming he/you used male rod ends and not female?



If I understand it correctly, my mis-alignment spacers would slide over my bolt and then the bolt into the rod end?


I tried to call a few 1-800 numbers in regards to the recall I found online and it just gives an error message. Over 10,000 carts were recalled from 04-05. Unfortunately I dont think I am going to have any luck with replacements.

What an experience this has been. Im anxious to get this thing fixed and fixed better than factory. Thank you.
 

cavfire

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There's a threaded bung welded into the end of the control arm in the pictures. You wouldn't want to just weld the rod end to the arm. That size hole will be rough to drill without a drill press or clamping the arm to something and using a mag drill.

The misalignment spacers will go into each side of the rod end's opening. Take a look at this link and it should make sense. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/12-375SS.html?gclid=CMG_pbbjjdMCFdgOgQod0tANSQ
 

dbwert

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Ok, thank you for that info. I am starting to understand this better now. Sorry about all the questions. Im a noob to this but learning.


I had spoke to Todd over at QSC on ebay. Explained to him what I wanted to do and he said using heims will help increase steering by 3%.


He recommended I could use this set up. I told him I was just going to drill holes in the A-Arms and weld the rod end into it. But it does make sense now as to what you said about being complicated without a drill press.

This is what I was looking to buy from them. 4 of them for upper and lower. Not a good idea from what you are saying, correct?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370933079322

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271839490996
 

dbwert

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There's a threaded bung welded into the end of the control arm in the pictures. You wouldn't want to just weld the rod end to the arm. That size hole will be rough to drill without a drill press or clamping the arm to something and using a mag drill.

The misalignment spacers will go into each side of the rod end's opening. Take a look at this link and it should make sense. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/12-375SS.html?gclid=CMG_pbbjjdMCFdgOgQod0tANSQ


I understand the mis-alignment spacers now. Thanks.

Am I correct with this game plan? - I am going to cut the tabs off, drill my holes into the a arms, weld on bungs on each a arm. Then thread my rod end into the bung. Below are the items I found that I am thinking will work?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Economy-1-2...633364?hash=item5ae184cc94:g:xxYAAOSw0vBUh2Ny


Thank you for all your help and info. I followed you on fb, great website too btw.
 
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