Yerf dog 3205? Maybe

[CS#24]

I see what your saying, the one on the shaft will move closer to engine as rpms go up and one with the chain will move away from engine. Should I compensate for that now? If its straight now, under load it will be in a bind. What if I add say 2 extra shims now to drive pulley. It will be out of whack now but as power is engaged and driven pulley moves away from engine, there would be less “bind”. Now my head hurts. Lol

 

[madprofessor]

Thinking about Applebee's now, that's how hard I've been chewing on this situation over the past few minutes. Applebee's still wins though, doesn't matter how hard I chew on their steaks, they never really get to swallowing consistency.
This situation got a 2-part answer, and it being in-my-face-simple must make me a simpleton. Answer #1 is you turn the driver/clutch over. It'll occupy the same amount of space on the motor shaft, hopefully the existing shims and/or spacers will see to that. The shaft's end bolt will screw in to the same depth, and get torqued down the same. Maybe a wide washer would be needed somewhere, maybe not, but that's answer #1.
Answer #2 is you spacer out the driven pulley further away from the motor so everything looks like the black and white diagram where it says in red "40 and 44 Series", and under that in blue "Symmetric 7/8" Wide" on this link you've seen before..........Comet Drive Belts | Comet Torque Converter Belts | Go Kart Belts (gokartsupply.com)...............See all that extra threaded black jackshaft you've got sticking out in front of the driven pulley? That's where you spacer the driven further out. Make it look like the diagram, just a mirror image of it.
In conclusion, flip the driver/clutch over, and slide the driven pulley out more with spacers and/or washers.
NOTE: That will give you the opportunity to slide or not to slide your sprocket out with the driven, depends on where you place the spacers and/or washers. If you have a close location issue with your chain it may free up some space for you.

 

[CS#24]

Omg! Just brilliant idea.. I’m on it like donkey kong. Ole girl might just run this weekend.

 

[madprofessor]

I humbly request of those who chime in after me on this with vehement dissent be humanly decent with the nouns and adjectives you use on me.

 

[miniblazinbmx]

Okay, I'm confused again, don't know my proper spring colors. I know that the torque converter diagrams on this page...................
Comet Drive Belts | Comet Torque Converter Belts | Go Kart Belts (gokartsupply.com)....................show 40 series TC's with the moveable sheaves of the driver and driven being on the opposite sides of each other. I also know that doesn't sound right if it's on a backplate. This must be where the reverse direction spring comes into play. Yours is yellow, hope that's right. The thing is this..................
When rpm's wind up and the pulleys shift with the setup now this way, the belt's going to move toward the engine on the driver, and it's going to move away from the engine on the driven. That's going to have it running all side-a-wompus.
Isn't it??????? Somebody sound off here, I just got a hot spike through my skull. Ouch.

The reverse direction has to do with the driven being mounted inboard or outboard, i.e., where the spring side is facing away from motor is considered outboard. IF you're running it this way in the picture, it is correct. Comet uses a yellow reverse wound(outboard mounted)spring for the 40 series. If he used red it would be trying to unwind, or he would need to reverse the position of the driven. The driver itself is centrifugal like a typical clutch and could be installed facing either direction.

The driven needs to be aligned so that the belt is straight as possible, you'll chew belts otherwise.
When in action the spring in the driven pulley moves sheaves on the shaft on the pulley itself.
Try it.
You can compress or open your driven pulley by hand also. There is no need to leave extra space for the driven beyond whats required to mount.

 

[Denny]

You seem to have a Go-Powersports set up. They seem to do things a little different. You have it installed the way they recommend.

 

[ONE-EYE]

That's a 3203. Definitely not looking original. The original has the jackshaft mount directly behind the engine (part of it actually bolts underneath the engine). That's what those 2 extra slots are for on the back end of your engine mount. The 3203 originally came with a torque converter (7" driven) and not a clutch. I'm not too sure about anything else...