Yerf dog 30032 brake new update

[Sir Cartzalot]

I got everything on just to check the fit, but if I do it this way it looks like it's gonna rub. Do you think that it would just rub that small part off then work okay afterwards? The only way I can think of to make it not be that close is to make a new rod myself that's a little longer and I'll just have to use my taps and dyes to put new threads on the pedal end. I also think this rod has a slight bend to it because the brake band is wanting to stick out to the side if that makes sense. Should the brake hub be touching the hanger or just as close as possible etc? I just want to make sure I do this right the first time.

(I tried uploading a short video showing it, but it said the server didn't allow files that largeis there a certain way you gotta upload videos?)

 

[Hellion]

Right, there’s usually a bolt, or a smooth shank rod (threads tear things up), welded to the frame to anchor one end of the brake band. The brake rod usually pulls the brake band over the top and from the rear. You need the brake drum mounted as close to the axle bracket as possible. You don’t need those spacers either.

I hope this simple illustration helps.



Edited to add: it looks like a carriage bolt, the kind that has a square shank at the head, would fit in one of the square holes in the axle bracket, but something seems off. The rods that hold the brake band to the frame are usually welded and the reason is simple, you don't want a nut and bolt getting loose and coming off from vibration. There's no more brakes when that happens.

 

[Hellion]

Show us a close up photo of the new pedals, something seems "off" about them.
What did the old ones look like? I usually grind off old paint and rust, then repaint. I rarely buy new.

 

[Denny]

The rod goes to the rear of the band always.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

Show us a close up photo of the new pedals, something seems "off" about them.
What did the old ones look like? I usually grind off old paint and rust, then repaint. I rarely buy new.

I used the OEM pedals or what I believe are the stock pedals. I primered them and then painted them with rustoleum textured paint like the rhino liner. I went off the owners manual parts diagram to make sure the rods, springs, and collars go, but it might not be correct. I haven't tightened anything up yet. I'm going tomorrow to buy new springs and collar clamps for the rods etc

It's weird the parts diagram sais to go with BOLT, 5/16-18 X 1-1/2” HEX for the pedals but with 1.5" theres not much threads so Im gonna go with 1.75 or 2" etc.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

I haven't tightened the bolts since Im gonna go with the longer ones. That might be why they look wonky lol

 

[panchothedog]

I have that exact same kart. I can't get to it until the weekend to take a picture of the brake. If you haven't got it figured out by then, I will try to post some pictures.
The band sits with the opening facing forward. A bolt goes through the bottom and into the plate to hold it stationary. The rod pulls the top part closed around the drum. In your middle picture the bolts holding the bearings in place are way too short. It doesn't even look like they reach the plastic part of the lock nuts.
A failure waiting to happen. Replace with bolts 1/2" longer than what is in there.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

Thanks for the info. All the nuts and bolts as well as the collar clamps are all loose I left them loose because I knew I might have to move stuff into the final position after I put the torque converter this week.

I found a picture online that finally shows how the 30032's brake was set up. Now I gotta decide if I'll use a long grade 8 bolt the type where half of it doesnt have threads with locking washer, locking nut, and loc tite for the band or have something welded on, but I don't have a welder but I guess I could buy one lol. This is the picture I found. The only thing that confuses me is why don't some of these set ups not have a spring, and what dose the C shaped part bolted to the axle hanger do since it doesnt touch the band? I have that on mine as well.

 

[Hellion]

I didn't mean anything by it, but the way those pedals are connected (a steel rod through the front with a nut on the back) are just "wonky" but they appear to work. And what's more: that is Factory/OEM, they made them that way. And Yerf-Dogs are some of the best karts ever made...

The only thing that confuses me is why don't some of these set ups not have a spring, and what dose the C shaped part bolted to the axle hanger do since it doesnt touch the band? I have that on mine as well.

The C shaped part helps keep the brake band centered over the drum. Band brakes are rather primitive but they work well and are self-energizing, meaning the axle is turning in the direction that the band tightens around the drum, so it is assisted by that rotational force. You can lock up the axle and do some slides with a band brake. They are used in industrial applications too but I digress.

I understand your confusion, those brake bands look like they need a return spring. Some karts have them, it's usually a coil spring around the brake rod working with a stationary bracket welded to the frame about midway between the pedal and the rear axle. On some karts there is no return spring because the band brake is itself a spring, like a section of coil spring and made of "spring steel".

If this was my thread, I'd still love to see Pancho's brake especially as an example of one that is in working order. There's not enough brake photos out there in cyberspace anyway.

 

[Hellion]

@panchothedog what about the axle spacers (first post, middle photo)? What does your Yerf-Dog have in terms of collars/spacers on the axle?How are they situated? Of course you need some collars or spacers (or both) to keep the axle centered between the axle brackets and to prevent lateral movement...

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

@panchothedog what about the axle spacers (first post, middle photo)? What does your Yerf-Dog have in terms of collars/spacers on the axle?How are they situated? Of course you need some collars or spacers (or both) to keep the axle centered between the axle brackets and to prevent lateral movement...

I just put everything included in the kit on there until I get the motor and torq

I didn't mean anything by it, but the way those pedals are connected (a steel rod through the front with a nut on the back) are just "wonky" but they appear to work. And what's more: that is Factory/OEM, they made them that way. And Yerf-Dogs are some of the best karts ever made...



The C shaped part helps keep the brake band centered over the drum. Band brakes are rather primitive but they work well and are self-energizing, meaning the axle is turning in the direction that the band tightens around the drum, so it is assisted by that rotational force. You can lock up the axle and do some slides with a band brake. They are used in industrial applications too but I digress.

I understand your confusion, those brake bands look like they need a return spring. Some karts have them, it's usually a coil spring around the brake rod working with a stationary bracket welded to the frame about midway between the pedal and the rear axle. On some karts there is no return spring because the band brake is itself a spring, like a section of coil spring and made of "spring steel".

If this was my thread, I'd still love to see Pancho's brake especially as an example of one that is in working order. There's not enough brake photos out there in cyberspace anyway.

That's how I felt lol I was even looking on youtube trying to find old yerf dog owners manual/ informational DVD's about maintenance etc just to see if I could catch a glimpse of how they came from the factory since the owners manual parts diagram for the 30032 is confusing when it comes to how the brake band was set up. It is weird how the brake pedals came from the factory like that with the rod through them. Im gonna to mess with it some more with different sized washers and experiment with where I put the spring and collar clamp on the rod to get the right angle and tension on the pedal etc.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

@panchothedog what about the axle spacers (first post, middle photo)? What does your Yerf-Dog have in terms of collars/spacers on the axle?How are they situated? Of course you need some collars or spacers (or both) to keep the axle centered between the axle brackets and to prevent lateral movement...

I finally found a Tav 2 TC that fits the 212 and it's supposed to ship tomorrow (everyone else was out of stock for the 3/4" (40/41 sprocket). Once I get that in I can set up where the sprocket needs to be. I now know I don't need as many collar clamps on the axle as I originally thought.

 

[panchothedog]

I can't remember about the spacers ( been a while since I messed.with it ) but I am thinking probably not. As far as return spring, mine has the one at mid kart like in picture #3 and another on the pedal. No spring at the band itself.

 

[panchothedog]

Posting some pictures. Will add text later this evening.

 

[Sir Cartzalot]

I appreciate it, but now I have a new problem lol.... I got it setup like yours, but the band is pushing firmly against the hub. I assume the axle hanger was bent at some point and I've tried several things to fix it. It's in such a bind that it's hard for me to turn the brake hub with it like this. (The wrench is where it's touching).

 

[Denny]

Ride the kart some and break it in.

 

[panchothedog]

Looks like you don't need the text I was going to add. Looks to be set up correctly. I think I would try to grind down that certain part of the brake lining.
Is it OK the rest of the way around the drum? Also, I can't find your picture that shows the spring at mid kart. Don't remember if the adjuster nut there controls rod length, or only tension. Getting it to roll somewhat by grinding contact points and then driving the kart using the brake frequently as suggested by Denny is probably the best thing to do.

 

[Hellion]

Could be the wrong size brake band. Edited to add: I think that is the case.
Perhaps it is a 4” band on a 5” drum? They come in a few different sizes, at least those set aside for fun vehicle use. Is the brake band brand new?

I’ll have to go look at mine (a Manco kart but same comcept) but when the pedal is at neutral, the whole band is quite loose on the drum, basically no contact or drag at all, although it may touch lightly in some areas or when bouncing over obstacles.

I really like the frame mounted U channel. Some brake bands have the keeper welded or riveted to the brake band.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

An alternative:

 

[Hellion]