Yamaha 650cc Offroad / UTV build.

[z0n3d0u7]

While talking with a neighbor, I asked if i could buy his 5hp funkart. He turned my offer down, with a counter offer. he said the nephew was bugging him about the 5hp cart, but he had a 650cc kart that needed rebuilt that he'd sell me for $25.

Without even looking it over, I gave him the money [I could sell the scrap metal alone for $25.] and drug the thing to my house.

Here it is as i got it:

1.) Needs all the linkages set-up.. The cable linkage they had simple wont work with the angles the cables forced into, So im gonna move the shifter over to the left, or center and go with a solid connecting rod. I however have not found a shifter that suites my needs. I want a "Jockey" shifter, or some sort of set-up with a Hand clutch. Will a hurst quarter stick work for this application? or is there something else i should consider?

2.Fuel lines were non-existant. So i need 20" of 1/4 fuel )rated line, and two Inline filters. [Already got 20" of line for one, Need one more strip.]

3.)Air filter's.. Anyone know of cheap cones for motorcycles? I need two. Or should i make a "Plenum" / "y pipe" from carb, to two filters with the two "Breather" lines into it?

4.)Gas cable is non-existant.. Where can i find 8' Throttle cables?

5.)On the front of the engine is a "Throttle linkage".. It however is not in anyway connected to the carb linkage.. Does anyone know anything about this?

6.)Brakes are non-existant.. whats everybody using for a hydraulic brake set-up? Anyone know of a mass produced cheap set-up? With or without pedal.. Even if i have to scavenge it from a car, I know of plenty of cheap parts yards.

7.)I wired the coils up.. One [Positive] goes to the "stator" [Or somewhere behind a cover..] The other i assume is a ground. Can these be grounded threw the motor block [Ground from coil to head, Then battery to block?]

8.)Battery / Starter wiring.. Can i wire these up like a 80's car? Ground from batt to frame, Ground from batt to enging block, And Positive to starter? I only notice one terminal on the starter.. I assume it is grounded threw the engine like a car, But where would my Igntion wire go to?

I believe that is all the questions i got for now, But more when i get into wiring kill switches, and making it street legal.

I do plan on "buffing" up the frame as well. As of now the "cage" is exhaust tubing. I plan on welding at the joints, And adding gussets, angles, Tire airbubble and gastank mounts, Ect. Do you think the "Cage" will withstand the abuse [Not planning much], Or should i switch it out with some heavier / stronger angle or 1x2" boxed tubeing?

this is basically a Fun toy / Project to learn to weld on before i get into modding the suspension on my trucks / Car.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Filters are something not to skimp out on, buy a good pair of uni pod 2 stages filters, they'll run about $40, but thats a cheap price to pay to save your engine.

Hydraulic disc setups can be found in snowmobile, motorcycles, atvs, etc. You can buy a caliper, and disc, and than get a master cyl from a car if you like. Car rotors and calipers are just too big, however if you really wanted to you could use them.

You definitely can ground the coil to the block, on mine i made a bracket on the head to bolt my coil to. Your engine should be grounded to the frame where it bolts, unless your using rubber mounts, which i would avoid like the plague. As far as wiring, ground to the frame, POS to solenoid, solenoid to starter terminal, and your all set, then you can run your secondary wires from that.

Can you take a picture of the "throttle linkage" on the front of the engine?


Looks like you found a great deal, and a good start to a project.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Ill get you a better picture tomorrow, But if you look at the pic above, It sits RIGHT above the exhaust / header on the Right side [from our Point of view.]

Ill have to get a better look at the starter tomorrow, But from what ive seen its just got one terminal. I believe the motor is Solid mounted, Which would also ground it.. didnt think about that. I got it up on jack stands tonight, and cleaned up a bit so ill give the starter another look in the morning before i start welding on it. 1/0 gauge battery cables wont hurt it correct? I know its WAY over kill, But i got a few feet left over from my stereo install, Might as well put it to use.

I did get my 220v ran for my welder, As well as my gas for it.. So im good to go as far as strengthening up the frame.

Fuel petcocks are plugged tho..

I think tomorrow, I may charge my lawn mower battery [Which is my next project..], And see if i cant get the engine to fire on some carb spray

also, Said aluminum "Exhaust tube" will hold a magnet, So i believe its some sort of Alum Alloy. Any way to descipher the stamps on the metal?

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Yup, that one termal on the start would go directly to the solenoid, for jumping purposes just put the pos cable on starter termal, and touch the neg to the frame.

These motorcycle starters dont take much juice, so the extra resistance of that cable will be alright, doubt you would notice anything.

Aluminum exhaust tube? you mean the headers? Probably chromed steel or something along those lines.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

No im talking the two "cage" bars. Upon first glance, i figured it was exhaust tubing.. Then last night figured out it wasnt.

So for the pos, I can go Batt Pos, Keyed switch, Push button switch, Starter?

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

No im talking the two "cage" bars. Upon first glance, i figured it was exhaust tubing.. Then last night figured out it wasnt.

So for the pos, I can go Batt Pos, Keyed switch, Push button switch, Starter?

You need a solenoid in there somewhere, a regular switch cant handle the amperage. Unless the starter has one built in, which is unlikely.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Okay, ill check around autozones site and see what can be had for cheap as far as solinoids go.

Beings the tank is higher then the carbs, Will i need a fuel pump or can i depend on gravity?

Ill go grab the camera from the shop in a few.. Been out there grinding on welds and pulling the steering out of it.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Found some on autozones site for $13.99. I believe napa has HD ones for around $8, So ill check them out tomorrow.

Pulled the carbs, Cleaned them, And found a BEE, Plus one bowl was full of water... Looking in the cylinders, I see no sign of rust or fouling, which is good as the carts been in the weather for as long as i can remember.

Here is said Linkage that i cannot figure out..

One wire on the starter.. Assume ill have to go the noid route..

No idea what this is neither.. It sits below / behind the carbs..

Steerings out, Started grinding on the frame a bit.. Gotta tack some spots as spot filler.. And some of it just simply needs rewelded / filled. Also welded that hook on the front, Because at some point i plan on getting it stuck in the mud just so i can try and get my colorado Z71 and F150XL stuck as well. Sooner or later i will have a 3000lb winch mounted up there.

Steering in the vice, After wire wheeled.. In the process of grinding it to look like one peice now.. then ran out of day light.

More grinding on frame, And shifter that will be cut off, And redesigned / Moved to other side. It will be a solid link, Instead of cable this time around. I also want a Shofter mounted hand clutch as well.

Can kinda see the insides of the motor in this pic. Dont look bad for a mid - 80's bike motor.

 

[mrfreyguy]

I think the thing behind the carbs is the cam chain tensioner.

 

[HellSpawn]

The linkage on the heads of the motor is for compression release.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Interesting.. So i assume its something i need? how would i hook that up? And when does compression need to be "released"?

 

[HellSpawn]

Its not necessary, but it makes for easier starting. I personally do not like them for I fear they will malfunction and cause power loss. (My XT250 *had* a release but I removed it and its still fairly easy to start.)

 

[z0n3d0u7]

So i could put some sort of hand lever somewhere for it, And use it if needed? Ill have a keyed push button start on it, So starting shouldnt be a problem once its all correct.

I just went out to do some Mock -up measurements while its dark to keep the neighbors happy, And locked my keys to the shop, F150, and house inside the shop. Luckily i shut the lights, Heater, And radio off before i came in. I also managed to remember my camera.

Basically, Here are some "Mock-up" pics of frame mods that i plan.

Tri-angle peice up front, To give strength just incase i decide to run it under a power line support cable or something of that nature.

Here is where the fuel can rack will go, As well as a "Luggage" and spare tire [When i buy one eventually] rack. I also plan on installing some lights up there eventually as well.

This thing just needs a gun rack, Or mounted .50cal now! Seriously tho, I wonder if the "stator" / Charging system could handle 50a or so draw when all accy's are on. A 12v cd/aux player, and large 2ch / small 4ch amp and a nice 6.5" componet set would really set it off. Also need to figure out how im gonna mount my GPS system, And a camera on it. Seat and belts / harness is pretty important as well.

Tomorrow after work ill get out the drill and dismantle the "dash" and clean, Engrave, and finish the 1/8" alum. Ive got a few ideas for the dash.. One [My favorite], Is taping it up and hitting it with the flap disc in different direction's leaving a "Diamond jewling" effect. That and some nice scroll work / engraving should set it off nicely. What gauges should i go with? It had an Amperage gauge, But i have a smaller Digital gauge i plan on using instead. That leaves me with 2 spots for gauges.

Heres the next project.

PO's son cut some stuff on the deck, And lost peices so instead of messing with it im gonna buy another mower for $25, Swap the engines then give him that one and fix the motor that will now be on this one, Flip the axel, Put stacks on it, and a snow blade and chains on the tires. It'll also get a reinforced hitch to help me move the kart around.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Linkage on head is prolly com release.

 

[fowler]

loving the 50 cal mount thats how to kill emus or kill what ever lives around there

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Wonder how legal an airsoft m249 or something would be mounted ontop?

Cant do much today, Dealing with tornadic weather so the shop is full of trucks i dont wanna be grinding around.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Found an 03 CBR 600RR a guy bought for a kart, And wants to now sell for $275, Motor harness and header. How hard would wiring be as far as putting it onto a kart? Is it as simple as bind these wires together on a switched 12v, ground these, hook up linkages / chain and go? I can handle simple wiring tasks, and am decent with a DMM, but i dont wanna get in over my head.

Also, The 600RR will more then likley wind up on a new frame.. Something Small, And On-roadish.. Will a frame thats welded together vrs bends hold up? I have no doubt in my welds, But if it's a definant that ill have to bend tubing, Ill pass. More then likely id be using 1x1 square tubing.

With that motor, And that small of tires, Id almost have to run a double jackshaft set-up to get the gearing where id need it, right? Is it as simple as counting teeth on the sprocket to get your ratio? [I know tire size matters, But if ive just got two sprockets would i just need the two teeth count, And tire size to figure it out? Anybody think my gearing so far is anywhere near correct? The sprocket is rather big.]

P.S., More tornado's today.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

600RR is gone..

I got antsy so i decided id try to jump my kart over with my lawn mower batt.

I had ground from frame to batt negative [Smallish wire, But ive seen smaller on cars], Then tapped the starter terminal wire to positive battery post. All i got was small arc's. I started having doubts about the motor being grounded threw the frame so i ran a peice of jumper cable from the batt cable to the starter bolt and same thing..

Any ideas?

Put a pair of vicegrips on the kick start knub, but couldnt get a good kick on it with where the motor is set in the frame. Has good compression tho.

 

[z0n3d0u7]

Just found two [yes two] 98-99 ZX6R motors $250 for BOTH. Planning on going to check them out sunday.. Anything i could / should inspect before buying? Both motors are out of the bike.. He has one harness at additional cost.. I assume i need the harness?

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Sounds like you may have a bad starter motor.