Wrong place
- Thread starter Jimmyjoe
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Master Hack
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You need to post in the proper catagory. Posting in the suggestion box, won,'t get much exposure. And is frowned upon.
panchothedog
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panchothedog
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With an engine that still has the governor in place, it's not going turn any more rpm than the governor will allow. You could try a 12 tooth clutch or a 40 tooth sprocket ( taller gearing ) but if the engine doesn't have enough torque, you might lose rpm and actually slow down. I know that there's ways you can adjust where the rod connects to the governor arm to get a couple of hundred more revs out of it, but I'm not the one to ask about that. Every engine I own has the governor removed, billet rod and flywheel, and the rest of the goodies. You are at that famous old threshold " how fast do you want to go? How fat is your wallet?
Sparkwizard
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What is the tire HEIGHT?
What engine RPM are you turning at 43 MPH?
Please note, the governor is probably not controlling RPM with a slide carb.
Changing the cam will not do much for you unless you rev the engine higher, and that is a bad idea with stock internal parts.
It sure seems like this same question came up about a week ago.
What engine RPM are you turning at 43 MPH?
Please note, the governor is probably not controlling RPM with a slide carb.
Changing the cam will not do much for you unless you rev the engine higher, and that is a bad idea with stock internal parts.
It sure seems like this same question came up about a week ago.
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panchothedog
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Seems like that same question question comes up several times a week. Almost daily sometimes.
Maybe I need to be more specific in the question I post. Guess that was a very generic question.
With the set up I have now I understand without changing any internal components or removing the govener. Thier might be minimal gains but I am pretty much maxed out with what I have and to be able to do it safely.
Moving rite along. At 46 mph would assume I am running at 3500 rpm looking for 55mph at 5500 rpm. Maybe if that is possible with a cam springs rods for the valves. pushrods and flywheel all profamance or billet. If so something close that you would recommend?
Ok my bad .
15.5"
Running at 43 mph would assume I am at 3200 to 3500 rpm( still running the same top speed with or with out the governor still tied in with the throttle. Left the governor connected, spliced into the original throttle just before the Axel.
That being said maybe I need to be more specific in my question. Looking for maybe 55 mph and 5500 rpms. Upgraded flywheel springs Cam and push rod or something similar if that is possible if so what combination would you recommend?
Denny
Canned Monster
I recommend posting in the correct area.
panchothedog
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I'm not so worried about which section of the forum this is in. If you want to go faster ( safely ) you will need to build your engine. First 3 items are to open up the engine, remove the entire governor and low oil cut off ( if it's a predator), install a billet rod and flywheel. $$$$. Now you have a durable platform that will hold together at high rpm.stiffer valve springs (anything over 26 lbs chrommoly push rods and stainless steel valves) , raise the compression by having the head milled
.065" and ported. If the stock piston is dished install a flat top this will raise compression a bit more. Now it's time for an aftermarket cam. Many are advertised to go up to 7500 to 8500 rpm. You don't want one of those because you will never see that much rpm, and they run poorly in the lower rpm range. You want something designed to about 6500 rpm. .275" lift and 240 to 245 degrees of duration at .050 lift. Also get a set of champion rocker arms. You could use ratio rockers but then you have to worry about piston to valve clearance and I doubt that your engine building abilities are ready for that. Quality Parts and head work are going to cost you somewhere between $400 and $550. Done correctly your 6&1/2 hp. engine will double in power. Good videos to watch on how to are Red Beards Garage, and the Grey Goat Garage. They are not a couple of U-tube jerks.
Good camera shots and good explanation.
.065" and ported. If the stock piston is dished install a flat top this will raise compression a bit more. Now it's time for an aftermarket cam. Many are advertised to go up to 7500 to 8500 rpm. You don't want one of those because you will never see that much rpm, and they run poorly in the lower rpm range. You want something designed to about 6500 rpm. .275" lift and 240 to 245 degrees of duration at .050 lift. Also get a set of champion rocker arms. You could use ratio rockers but then you have to worry about piston to valve clearance and I doubt that your engine building abilities are ready for that. Quality Parts and head work are going to cost you somewhere between $400 and $550. Done correctly your 6&1/2 hp. engine will double in power. Good videos to watch on how to are Red Beards Garage, and the Grey Goat Garage. They are not a couple of U-tube jerks.
Good camera shots and good explanation.