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[Karttekk]

I have a caliper question. The adjustment screw is seized in the brake caliper and the parking brake won't hold, so I decided to remove the caliper to free up the adjuster and get it working correctly. I was able to "cheat" the caliper half off on the engine side of the rotor, but the bolts that hold the caliper in are too long to remove the other half. Other than disconnecting the chain, disassembling the wheel bearing support and dropping that side of the axle, is there a trick to getting the rest if the caliper out? I'm thinking I may have to grind off some of the metal where the bolt heads are visible so I can pull the caliper bolts out and get the other part out to inspect and clean it. Maybe I'm missing something. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[landuse]

I have a caliper question. The adjustment screw is seized in the brake caliper and the parking brake won't hold, so I decided to remove the caliper to free up the adjuster and get it working correctly. I was able to "cheat" the caliper half off on the engine side of the rotor, but the bolts that hold the caliper in are too long to remove the other half. Other than disconnecting the chain, disassembling the wheel bearing support and dropping that side of the axle, is there a trick to getting the rest if the caliper out? I'm thinking I may have to grind off some of the metal where the bolt heads are visible so I can pull the caliper bolts out and get the other part out to inspect and clean it. Maybe I'm missing something. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Pics?

 

[Karttekk]

I'll post some this evening. Thought someone might have run across this already. Thank you.

 

[JMINDY]

I had the exact same issue with my kart. Brake was weak and the adjuster is seized. If I press the brake down hard it will hold, but it's hard for the young one to do it and it took a lot of distance and effort for him to finally get it to a complete stop.

I tried to take the caliber off like you described but the bolts will not clear. Had to loosen the brake disc on the axle so it would slide a little, then loosen both sides of the wheel bearings for some side to side play, then dropped the axle on the side of the brake. It will come out if enough items are loose and move a little, but it's a little tight because you're coming out (disc) at an angle. I ended up dropping both sides of the axle to reassemble the brake/disc because it was so must easier to line up by coming straight up than it was trying to line them up coming in at an angle. Didn't hurt to re-grease the bearings anyways...

Cleaned it out, un-seized everything and replace the brake pads... I used a little bit of gasket sealer to hold the brake pads in place so they won't get in the way as your placing the disc up into the caliber. A PITA job...They work better...still need to adjust them and the throttle.

 

[Karttekk]

I think what I'll do is just get the lever side of the caliper working. The wheel side pad can't fall out, plus the pad that came out is still in good shape so the other one "should" be fine. Hopefully I can free up the adjustment screw, reassemble the caliper and set the preload. The rotor needs scuffed up a little too, so I'll take care of that while I'm in there. I appreciate the responses.

 

[Karttekk]

I'm back with another question. Picked up a new twin seat and the rails/adjusters for it and installed them on the frame. Only one side latches and the vendor said it's normal. How does one ride a kart with only one side latched? There's an arm you pull to release the seat, but it only locks one side. What am I missing?

Thanks

 

[doesgo]

I've got those same adjusters, although they're not yet installed. I think the theory is there won't be enough inertia in the left side of your seat to make it move around unintentionally.

I hope.

 

[Karttekk]

Disregard that last post. Once the seat was installed and secured, there is no movement. Got ahead of myself. Thanks for replying.

 

[doesgo]

I'm glad you posted and confirmed all is well. Gives me confidence mine will work, too.

 

[Karttekk]

I'm not sure if this requires a new thread or not, but if anyone is interested in the old Comet torque converter I removed from the kart, it's available. Just pay for shipping. Maybe someone will be able to wire wheel the rust from the sheaves and get it working properly. I opted for a new one since I got the kart at a good price. I can post pictures if need be and I apologize if I should have started a new thread.

Thanks

 

[DirtyDamage]

Please post pics..

 

[Karttekk]

The old Comet 30 Series torque converter parts are available from my Manco kart. Just pay shipping to your destination. Hopefully someone can clean them up and reuse them.

Thanks

 

[2SlickNick]

The old Comet 30 Series torque converter parts are available from my Manco kart. Just pay shipping to your destination. Hopefully someone can clean them up and reuse them.

Thanks

I could use those.

 

[Karttekk]

Here's the kart pretty much done. Needs more paint work and a front wheel has some play. New torque converter and belt, tires, seat, carb disassembled and cleaned, plug, air filter, oil change, got the brake caliper and parking brake working, new throttle and governor springs. Did some rust scraping and paint work in the front. Touched up the steering linkage and pedals, painted the wheels. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and help.

 

[2SlickNick]

That came out nice!

 

[Karttekk]

I have a jackshaft question regarding this kart. Instead of loosening the engine to allow the driven clutch to clear the frame when I removed it, I pushed the jackshaft over a bit to allow clearance by loosening the nuts on the shaft and lightly tapping the shaft away from the engine. I must have been turning the whole shaft at first instead of the nuts because now that it's together, the jackshaft sprocket is too close to the engine. I can't seem to get it to align with the axle sprocket no matter which way I move the jackshaft. Should I just reposition the jackshaft sprocket? It may have been like that from the beginning, I can't recall. What moved?

Thanks

 

[2SlickNick]

I had that problem too with my old manco. It took a bit of playing with to get it back to stock location. Just hang in there.... Make sure the bearings are all the way in tube too.

 

[Karttekk]

Update on the kart. Removed the torque converter and jackshaft sprocket, added a 5/8" washer on the jackshaft then reassembled. Ran around the neighborhood for 20 minutes or so. Worked out well. Still have to Dremel out some of that clam-shell/debris shield around the back of the kart. It warped and is contacting the drive axle sprocket & chain. Pleased with it so far otherwise. Thanks again for all of the help.

 

[2SlickNick]

don't forget your graphite spray...

 

[Karttekk]

Pulled the wobbly front wheel off yesterday, ends up a previous owner installed 3/4" I.D. bearings in it instead of the correct 5/8" I.D. bearings it calls for. Gotta wonder how someone would miss the flopping wheel when they put it back together. Must not have been too concerned about safety.