Will this be worth it?

[12348910]

There's a problem with that.
SUSPENSION
You might get away with putting the engine way up there like that IF you use a spring loaded chain tensioner to take up the slack of the compressed shocks.

TBH you'd be better off without the suspension and making a small chassis with the engine tucked under the body on it even if you just cut up a bed frame to make it.

I see nothing but headaches and catastrophic engineering failures in your not too distant future.

Good point I didn't think of that

 

[12348910]

It might be hard to understand not in person but could we weld some pipe or something to the bottom of what looks like the axle (The axle is inside of that) and then have it hang out the back? This way it will still have the suspension since it's connected to that

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

You mean build a swing arm off the existing axle like this? Correct me if I am way off.

 

[12348910]

I mean this. I would cut a small slot for the sprocket to go on the axle since where I drew the sprocket isn’t actually the axle, it’s a sleeve where the axle goes inside. And then the motor would be mounted in the back .

 

[Rat]

I mean this. I would cut a small slot for the sprocket to go on the axle since where I drew the sprocket isn’t actually the axle, it’s a sleeve where the axle goes inside. And then the motor would be mounted in the back View attachment 143899.

You'd have to basically build an entirely new swingarm for that to work... because physics are a mother!

You want the axle where ever you put it to travel with the engine... meaning you want the engine AND the axle after the pivot because this prevents having to figure out the chain and swingarm travel arc so that you can create a setup that neither pulls so tight things break, or goes so loose it derails.

The only issue to resolve then is how much travel the suspension has so the engine can be positioned far enough it doesn't bash off the rear of that plastic.... or you cut some out for clearance.

The weight of the engine alone will definitely stress load that flimsy steel tube so the engine power can finsh ripping it to pieces. You are on the right track of thinking though.

If you go that route, you'd be wise to build the swingarm out say 6-8" past the engine and stick something like large roller blade or scooter wheels under the ends because you're adding so much rear weight it won't take much throttle to backflip it.

36-38lb engine
3lb +/- 0.5lb ? Of fuel and oil
Your rear 125lb seated behind center mass

So, yeah little dude, that damn thing is going to want to stand up faster than someone that just got hot soup dumped in their lap... and it's not going to want to settle back down too quickly.

I'm still skeptical of this whole thing being built on the plastic powerwheels assembly. I know the plastic they are made of is relatively tough... but I'm not convinced they are 7hp and 275°-350° tough

 

[12348910]

You'd have to basically build an entirely new swingarm for that to work... because physics are a mother!

You want the axle where ever you put it to travel with the engine... meaning you want the engine AND the axle after the pivot because this prevents having to figure out the chain and swingarm travel arc so that you can create a setup that neither pulls so tight things break, or goes so loose it derails.

The only issue to resolve then is how much travel the suspension has so the engine can be positioned far enough it doesn't bash off the rear of that plastic.... or you cut some out for clearance.

The weight of the engine alone will definitely stress load that flimsy steel tube so the engine power can finsh ripping it to pieces. You are on the right track of thinking though.

If you go that route, you'd be wise to build the swingarm out say 6-8" past the engine and stick something like large roller blade or scooter wheels under the ends because you're adding so much rear weight it won't take much throttle to backflip it.

36-38lb engine
3lb +/- 0.5lb ? Of fuel and oil
Your rear 125lb seated behind center mass

So, yeah little dude, that damn thing is going to want to stand up faster than someone that just got hot soup dumped in their lap... and it's not going to want to settle back down too quickly.

I'm still skeptical of this whole thing being built on the plastic powerwheels assembly. I know the plastic they are made of is relatively tough... but I'm not convinced they are 7hp and 275°-350° tough

The only reason I don’t want to put the axle far out is because it would look so stupid in my opinion. If I could make it look half way decent then I would totally want to try your idea.

 

[Rat]

The only reason I don’t want to put the axle far out is because it would look so stupid in my opinion. If I could make it look half way decent then I would totally want to try your idea.

Clearly you missed something

You don't need to move the axle from it's relative position under the thing, you just need your grafted on section to start at the pivot not the axle housing.
You need to pretty much position the engine with the rear shocks removed so you have the engine positioned just far enough back you don't beat it to hell or melt the plastic body.

 

[panchothedog]

You have so many problems staring you in the face, looking stupid should be pretty far down the list. You have stated more than once that it only needs to run the length of the race. 700' or so. You don't need suspension. Why are you so stubborn on making this project ( disaster ) more complicated. I also almost have a hard time believing that your shop teacher is going along with this. Build
some kind of solid subframe ( even out of an old bed frame ) mount the.engine and the drive axle ridgedly to the subframe, and then attach the plastic body to it. If either the engine or the axle are dependent on the plastic body for strength
your contraption will self destruct before you go 200'. You have had 6 or 7 people trying to tell you basically the same thing for over a month now,and it just seems like you don't like to listen.

 

[Rat]

I also almost have a hard time believing that your shop teacher is going along with this.

I absolutely agree, but I also know too much how hands off chickenshit teachers are nowadays.

My shop teachers would have interviened and even given access to a few extra supplies because safety and learning the right way to go about things was more important than worrying about what snowflake parent was going to get bent over making their kid pout because they were told they were doing it wrong.

I was the only student in my class allowed in "the back room" where the ancient stick machine was (this thing was massive and I only remember it being dark green and about the size of a cube freezer)

You have had 6 or 7 people trying to tell you basically the same thing for over a month now,and it just seems like you don't like to listen.

I have to ask though ... Were you not the same way at 13?

I know most kids are, and it's not even gender specific. They all think they know everything or at least act like it. Tell them something they NEED to understand and you just get eyerolls and the Huffy "I know" which provokes a certain level of parental rage knowing that nonsense would have gotten the daylights smacked out of us...

I tend to get real ugly with those that clearly need help, ask for advice and help... but still assume to continue as if they know more than I do.

@12348910
I can assure you that at a little over 3x your age I have forgotten more things than you or the rest of your generation will ever bother to try learning.

 

[pearl111]

You have so many problems staring you in the face, looking stupid should be pretty far down the list. You have stated more than once that it only needs to run the length of the race. 700' or so. You don't need suspension. Why are you so stubborn on making this project ( disaster ) more complicated. I also almost have a hard time believing that your shop teacher is going along with this. Build
some kind of solid subframe ( even out of an old bed frame ) mount the.engine and the drive axle ridgedly to the subframe, and then attach the plastic body to it. If either the engine or the axle are dependent on the plastic body for strength
your contraption will self destruct before you go 200'. You have had 6 or 7 people trying to tell you basically the same thing for over a month now,and it just seems like you don't like to listen.

12348910, panchothedog, is........ %100 absolutely correct,........ just build or use an already built go kart /go kart frame minus, the seat/seat frame. Then attach the plastic body to the frame.
You may have to cut out a part of the body for the motor.

 

[12348910]

I talked my grandparents into letting me use this. Now I got to take it to school. And before anyone says anything i know the rear tires are bald and the handle bars dont match in color

 

[Rat]

I talked my grandparents into letting me use this. Now I got to take it to school. And before anyone says anything i know the rear tires are bald and the handle bars dont match in color

The tires are the least of your concerns at this time. As long as the cords aren't showing, they will hold up longer than you need them too. They're bald from the solid axle being used on pavement.

If you insist on being worried about the tires, just rotate them (move the rears to the front, and the front to the rear)

The handlebars are chrome, so they match just fine.

Since you're replacing an electric motor with gas the first thing you should do is more pics of that bare frame.

I think you should be able to sit thw powerwheels body on it without adding OR relocating a whole lot... can't see enough to say.

At this point you need the powerwheels gutted of its suspension and steering, then just set it aside for measurements.

Before you tear down the powerwheels, some pics of them together to compare a few things size wise would be useful to further help you.

If there's any one thing you should learn fast, take seriously, and never forget; it's this.

Function OVER Form: It doesn't need to be pretty to work well, and anything pretty that doesn't work is just a yard decoration.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Here's a guy who is following a similar path:

 

[Denny]

Here's a guy who is following a similar path:

That’s probably the guy he’s racing, his uncle!

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Probably! Will not end well.

 

[12348910]

I can promise you that’s not my uncle. He is using a Lamborghini. Here is what it looks like next to the frame. It’s the only picture I could take before the bell rang. It seems pretty close to the same width and length

 

[12348910]

I will check tomorrow but according to somewhere the axle sprocket is 47t so I want to use a 11t clutch
that would be a 4.2:1 ratio. If anyone knows what size bore the motor is or a link to a good clutch that would be helpful

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

The 1st few entries to this thread establish you have a Predator 212 and it was recommended you buy the fleabay torque converter. 10 teeth on the TC will be fine. You better get going or your uncle will eat your lunch.

 

[12348910]

The 1st few entries to this thread establish you have a Predator 212 and it was recommended you buy the fleabay torque converter. 10 teeth on the TC will be fine. You better get going or your uncle will eat your lunch.

Sorry I don't think I posted this but my parents won't let me spend that much. I know it's only $50 but they said no

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Then buy the cheapest 10-11 tooth 3/4" bore centrifugal clutch you can find and start wagering with your Uncle. Maybe you'll win and can upgrade.