wheel spanner?

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acpainter

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Hello, I was replacing the spindles on my manco 606b. I replaced the bearings as well, and noticed I did not have the spanner for each wheel as indicated in the parts breakdown. Does anyone have any info on this part and is it fine to run the cart without it?
 

mckutzy

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Could you clarify as to what a "wheel spanner" is?
Is it a type of wrench, or another part and not knowing the name of?
 

DHC

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Hello, I was replacing the spindles on my manco 606b. I replaced the bearings as well, and noticed I did not have the spanner for each wheel as indicated in the parts breakdown. Does anyone have any info on this part and is it fine to run the cart without it?

From the explanation of what you were doing, and being a person that understands word meanings... aswell as knowing that the part you are speaking of is missing 85-90% of the time from wheels (BTW...correct name is 'bushing spanner' I had to google it myself ;-))... Im hypothesizing that you need/speaking of the metal tube that slides between the bearings, on the spindle shaft?

You ask if it's 'ok' to run the kart w/ out it... and IMHO, I'll repeat myself... lol... it's missing 85-90% of the time :lolgoku:(I work on/fix/repair local karts as a side job) if you are running 2-peice rims, use the widest diameter bolt that will fit the holes, that hold the rim together... and ensure the nuts are on really good/snug, as to where it wont vibrate off (lock washer usually works but add a drop of lock-tite blue/red to the threads... JIC).

The spanner's duty is to prevent/hinder external forces from applying too much pressure on one bearing/side(in a turn, the nut/spindle). There 'should' be a 'ridge' on the inner part of the bearing seat, of the rim, to prevent the bearing from sliding into the inner part of the rim... 'that' ridge/lip is 'normally' strong enough to hold everything sturdy, in cooperation w/ the bolts. You may have (if not... there is an existence of them) a bearing that is housed w/ a collar, to prevent the bearing from sliding into the race, too far... those are what Ill normally suggest to my customers in replacement of the normal 'un-collared' bearings... the collar ones are an 'upgrade' and save that inner lip from damage (normally... I say 'normally' cause there was this one customer... :ack2:).

I would NOT crank down the hub nuts w/out the spanners... I normally suggest castle nuts replacements(if not already equipped). Snug em to 'just' before binding... insert pin and bend. :thumbsup:

Ofcourse, you could just make a set for 'next to nothing'... Just measure the distance between those ridges (I add +1mm for Poop's-n-Haha's), get a section of conduit that'll slide on the spindle shaft, snugly(galvanized tubing normally used to tuck/hide wires in buildings... can be bought at HDepot/Lowes... 'maybe' Walmart:huh:). Cut and there you go:thumbsup: ... no more 'missing' part :wai:

I hope I answered your question... and didnt type all this on the wrong part >.<

:popcorn:
 

acpainter

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Yes that answers my question. Thank you, and the replacement bearings have a collar on them. Thanks again
 
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