Whats the story with wheel bearings

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chancer

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Ok so the front wheels on my karts use one piece steel wheels like you see on a lawn tractor. I had two sets one had 3/4id steel bushings and the other had 1/2 bearings. Both are standard 1&7/8 od. I need 5/8 bearings for my spindles.

Fastenal sells the 5/8bore by 1&7/8 od flanged radial bearings for like 17 bucks. BMI and MFG sell the same size for 2 bucks.
I just want a good set of bearings. There seems to be a huge difference in price is this also a difference in Quality?

Also some have snap rings instead of flanges. I have had these break and fall apart.:ack2:

What is a good Go Kart front wheel bearing?:surrender:
 

Poboy kartman

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Well.....there are "high speed" sealed bearings....(which is what to look for in the sales description) .....and glorified two piece bushings...only good for wheelbarrows and such.....

There are quality high speed sealed bearings out there for $2....but without a reference....we can't tell you if that's what you are looking at.....

EDIT: BTW.... Flanged bearings are for hubs that don't have an inner step to keep the bearing from going too deep in the hub....other than that...no difference in quality.....

Regardless of whether a lip in the hub...or a flange locates the bearing...without a center bushing...and too much pressure from side loading when tightening the wheel....either one will fail....
 

DeathMachine

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Having used "harbor freight" wheels on many projects, including my DeathMachine bar stool, I can tell you that this style wheel is only reliable up to 20 mph or so, especially if you corner hard. The rim flange does not hold the tire as well as a wheel designed for higher speeds, like a racing go kart wheel. I have peeled the tire over the rim several time on the barstool by making a sharp turn at full speed.

DeathMachine II will be getting a live axle, wheelie bars, and racing go kart wheels since I upgraded from a 3hp Briggs to a predator 212.

In short, if you are tearing up bearings, it's a sign that you are exceeding the design limit of the wheel.
 

Poboy kartman

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Having used "harbor freight" wheels on many projects, including my DeathMachine bar stool, I can tell you that this style wheel is only reliable up to 20 mph or so, especially if you corner hard. The rim flange does not hold the tire as well as a wheel designed for higher speeds, like a racing go kart wheel. I have peeled the tire over the rim several time on the barstool by making a sharp turn at full speed.

DeathMachine II will be getting a live axle, wheelie bars, and racing go kart wheels since I upgraded from a 3hp Briggs to a predator 212.

In short, if you are tearing up bearings, it's a sign that you are exceeding the design limit of the wheel.

Hmmmm,....this post reminds me of an old joke where a minister and congregation are encouraging people to openly admit to past sins....and it goes on and on...with the the encouraging "Tell it...Tell it, brother"....until the last member admits something I can't say here.....And the preacher says: " Dang, Brother....I don't believe you should've told THAT!"

So....The smart money is on researching first....and seeing there is a ton of info here against advising against the use of those.....
 

chancer

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In response to both poboy and death machine:

I used a "glorified two piece bearing" (Yes from a wheel barrow) Just because that is what I had it worked in a pinch. But I did tear it apart.

I am just looking for a good replacement set for the old Kart. and the new Kart.
This says High speed
http://www.bmikarts.com/High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-with-Snap-Ring-58-x-1-38_p_1608.html
But as Poboy asked Yes the wheels do NOT have an inner flange to keep the bearing in place so The Snap Ring becomes important.
I also found this:
http://www.bmikarts.com/High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-with-Snap-Ring-58-x-1-38_p_1608.html
They say they are for HAND TRUCKS.
 

chancer

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Hmmmm,....this post reminds me of an old joke where a minister and congregation are encouraging people to openly admit to past sins....and it goes on and on...with the the encouraging "Tell it...Tell it, brother"....until the last member admits something I can't say here.....And the preacher says: " Dang, Brother....I don't believe you should've told THAT!"

So....The smart money is on researching first....and seeing there is a ton of info here against advising against the use of those.....

Yeah those HF wheels Fell apart on my 5 yr olds HF pedal Tricycle. I think he is being Honest though It is called
"DEATH MACHINE":lolgoku:
 

DeathMachine

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Yeah, the cheap HF wheels are best for hand trucks...

I did find a set of wheels of indeterminate origin that have held up well to my shenanigans.

However, doubling the HP of DeathMachine is making me rework many things. Currently, even limiting the throttle to 50% by putting slack in the throttle cable, it will still pull the front wheels off the ground enough for the kart to make an immediate right turn, it has only one driven rear wheel.

I have a history of building stuff on the cheap, I have not managed to off myself yet but have received a bit of road rash over the years. Being 54 now, I take things a bit easier. I will only take the 64 Ducati up to 70mph on the original tires these days.
 

Poboy kartman

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Ok...so...the first BMI link is a good bearing.....now...you need the "flanged" bearings....(which those are)..... "flanged" can be by snap ring....or a built in flange......

So.....back to side loading......if you have a locking axle nut....and get the placement just right....you can probably get away without a sleeve in the hub....but ideally....you want to be able to torque down on the inner races and sleeve without putting side pressure on the roller bearings....make sense?????
 

chancer

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Doug. Yes that makes sense.
I have the same solution on my "Bearinged spindle barrels" I used 1/2" gas pipe as a sleeve between the inner bearing races to be able to "torque down" the inner races. Also a small (thin) bushing between the inner race and mounts or in this case the locking axle nut.
BTY The BMI stuff is usually good but they really stick it to on Shipping.
Oh to Ca 17$ while MFG Wi. to Ca 6.99$
 

Poboy kartman

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BUT WAIT!!!!!! ACT RIGHT NOW AND WE'LL SEND YOU A SECOND USELESS SUPER CHOPPER.....(just pay $30 extra shipping and fondling.....)

SO....THAT'S 2 USELESS CHOPPERS FOR THE INCREDIBLE PRICE OF ONLY $10!!!!!!.....(plus $50 shipping) ......
 

chancer

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No it is actually each! The local lawn mower shop wanted $7.95ea. and I need 8. I really started this thread to make sure the stuff at MFG and BMI was not just 99cent China stuff, because locally Flanged bearings average 10 bucks.
 
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