what type of tube should I use

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ironman

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here is a couple of pictures


hope that helps some
 

AutoMX

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it really comes down to what you are building. if the chassis is just a simple box frame like that, 1" tubing may flex too much.
that said, keep in mind that kit car guys and lamborghini and ferrari all use tubing around 1" to 1.5" @ 16 gauge but their frames have hundreds of pieces. if thats too much work, use thicker stuff, but thin doesn't necessarily mean weak.
 

redcali

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my god iron man im so jealous of that bike:thumbsup:


the other thing, square tubing is far easier to mount things to/mount to it. and like you said, easier to join and weld etc.

if you use a thinner steel just be prepared to use a bit more and reinforce it a bit more. thats all i can offer!
 

ironman

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my god iron man im so jealous of that bike:thumbsup:


the other thing, square tubing is far easier to mount things to/mount to it. and like you said, easier to join and weld etc.

if you use a thinner steel just be prepared to use a bit more and reinforce it a bit more. thats all i can offer!

you can buy it if you want it just pay off the loan:surrender:
 

steve lord

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what type of material

I had them same question about what to use for a kart frame.

I contacted Margay Products (Racing Kart Manufacturers) and they informed me that they used to use 1" round steel in the late '60s and '70s to produce their karts.

The difficult part is making sure your tubing is fish-mouthed at the perpendicular welding points . . . which you will have to do yourself. You can't just weld a pipe end to another round end. It won't hold.

This is why is probably best to used square tubing. However, for me, my kart must look a certain way. And I love the look of the older 1960s and 70s karts!

Good luck!

Steve
 

ryf

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I used 1/2" size schedule 40 "handrail" pipe, its the same HREW for plumbing without the threads or the black anti-rust laquer. its outside diameter is 1 1/8" inside diameter is actually 5/8-3/4" (useful if you need to slug a joint) I used this for almost everything on my ride, but I do have to 1 1/4" x 3/16" main tubes for the bottom of my ride. I am replacing the main hoop with 1 1/4ID HREW as it bent when I rolled it, but it was not triangulated. something like 3/4" or 1" HREW/handrail schedule 40 is super strong, and thick, thickness has been 3/16" for the 1/2 and 1" I rolled mine doing about 25mph, and everything triangulated was fine. good luck with your build

if you have to weld pipe end to end you should do what i call slug it. i use a rod or pipe that fits snug inside the pipe i am working with and use that to keep the pipe straight as well as add some extra integrity to the joint. the first pipe is welded to the slug and the second is welded to the weld or the slug> you can fill the gap with weld and grind it smooth.this works very well and is super strong.

if you are welding side to end and have no structural requirement for the part you can flatten the tube and weld it that way. many cheap carts are that way and its ok as long as it is welded well and load orientation is kept in mind so the length of the weld is kept vertical to the load.
 
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