What Clutch to Use?

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bob58o

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You would mount the Driven unit (the one with the exposed spring) on the jackshaft.
The other one goes on the crankshaft.
The two pulleys are connected by a belt.
A single sprocket goes on the jackshaft and connects via chain to the axle sprocket.

You are basically replacing the clutch with the DriveR Unit and replacing the jackshaft input sprocket with the DriveN unit.

Depending on the diameter of the Jackshaft, (5/8", 3/4", 7/8", ...) they make different driven units. Can you verify the diameter of the Jackshaft.

Depending on the distance between the two pulleys, they make different belts.
Can you verify the distance between the crankshaft and the jackshaft.
 

bob58o

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To post a picture, near the bottom of the page there should be something that says "post reply" or "go advanced". Click on of those. Avoid the "Post Quick Reply" button if adding pics this way.

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Slabach

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Ok, well, should I use a heavy duty clutch (like a Noram 1600 series) and the jack-shaft, or a torque converter.
 

Slabach

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the jackshaft is 1" in diameter.

---------- Post added at 05:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:36 AM ----------

the jackshaft can slide but in can't get super close to the clutch because on the engine.
 

Slabach

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*because its behind the engine and its hits before it gets close. I have a friend that could help me find the rite belt. I just wanted to know which torque converter to use.
 

bob58o

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*because its behind the engine and its hits before it gets close. I have a friend that could help me find the rite belt. I just wanted to know which torque converter to use.

I don't know of any Torque Converter Driven Units with a 1" Bore.
I've seen 5/8", 3/4", 7/8". They might exist, I just don't think I know of any.

If you want to keep the 1" Jackshaft, then you might need to use sprockets instead of the Torque Converter.???

---------- Post added at 06:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 AM ----------

Or you could raise the engine (if needed), remove the jackshaft, and try something like this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Kart-To...785775?hash=item4d6dc011af:g:euMAAOSwCglag0u6
 

Joe-405

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Haha. Lol I was just saying there is a 1” bore driven. It would be easier for him to change his jackshaft size tho. And more cost friendly.

1-3/16” Inch Top Width Symmetric Cogged belt. For use with 94C, 780, 770 Series and others requiring 1-3/16” TW Belt.

I don’t think he wants to fork out that much cash for a setup to utilize that style. They aren’t cheap at all.
 

bob58o

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Haha. Lol I was just saying there is a 1” bore driven. It would be easier for him to change his jackshaft size tho. And more cost friendly.

1-3/16” Inch Top Width Symmetric Cogged belt. For use with 94C, 780, 770 Series and others requiring 1-3/16” TW Belt.

I don’t think he wants to fork out that much cash for a setup to utilize that style. They aren’t cheap at all.

Thank you, I knew there were others out there, but I forgot the numbers and stuff. Those are pricey.
 

Randy H

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I might be wrong here. I believe the 780 has around a 6:1 overall ratio. So you've got $400-$500 in this setup. It could be quite a significant performance boost over a 40 and even a 30 series. Even with a fairly modestly built big block.

Hopefully I'll be back in action soon and can test for myself. Got a780 driven for a good price, been looking for a good deal on a drive. Looks like in gonna have to bite the bullet and spend...eek $250 for one.

Of course of I'm completely wrong, then please chastise me appropriately.
 
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Slabach

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thanks guys for the input. I am sorry I haven't been able to reply to everyone's posts, I have been busy with school and whatnot. I don't know if it would be smart to downsize the jack-shaft to 3/4" because I am afraid that I might sheer it off. (16hp engine and a big, heavy go-kart)

---------- Post added at 09:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 AM ----------

I am not sure how much the go-kart weighs but I know that I couldn't push it up any hills by myself.
 

Slabach

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I don't know of any Torque Converter Driven Units with a 1" Bore.
I've seen 5/8", 3/4", 7/8". They might exist, I just don't think I know of any.

If you want to keep the 1" Jackshaft, then you might need to use sprockets instead of the Torque Converter.???

---------- Post added at 06:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 AM ----------

Or you could raise the engine (if needed), remove the jackshaft, and try something like this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Go-Kart-To...785775?hash=item4d6dc011af:g:euMAAOSwCglag0u6

I like this idea the best because then I don't have to line up the tc with my jackshaft. Does anyone know if there is a cheaper replica out there? If there isn't, I am ok with spending the extra cash if this is what I need.
 

bob58o

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I like this idea the best because then I don't have to line up the tc with my jackshaft. Does anyone know if there is a cheaper replica out there? If there isn't, I am ok with spending the extra cash if this is what I need.

That is the cheap one.
The GPS was the only one available until recently.
http://www.gopowersports.com/40-series-torque-converter-kit-bolt-on-8hp-18hp

Not sure the GPS one in a genuine comet either. Think they are both China knockoffs with different backplates.
 

Slabach

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hey, do ya'll think that the driven would sheer if I put a tc with a 3/4" driven with the 16hp engine and my go-kart? (as pointed out earlier, the torque converters with a 3/4" driven are at least 60-70$ cheaper then those with a 1" driven)
 
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