Well this is my next project.

[Bluethunder3320]

rusted bad.

electrolysis!

 

[B man]

there way beyond electrolysis. Who wants to see the vintage boat light?

 

[B man]

ok hes is the light. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_Ao5Xv6Qg

 

[#28 FASTGRASS]

AHHH B man....TAR.....been ther done that........Don't do man, no matter how hard you try you wreck your shoes / clothes / fish'n gear etc. etc. every time you go fishing! and on a hot day you melt into it......I had to sell the boat I did it to, before mum shot me at the time.....

A good coat of epoxy paint first and a dab of silastic around any suspect rivets... I'm sure your papa will set you right!

Have fun

P.s Make sure you drop the leg off & put a new water pump impellor in the motor and a dab of grease on the drive shaft before you do any boating, some times those "ear muffs" can be a bit misleading.....found that out the $$$$$$ way...

 

[Bluethunder3320]

there way beyond electrolysis. Who wants to see the vintage boat light?

Teyre not!

I had a briggs tank that was super rusted and after a day its clean bare steel!

Try it its free!

 

[B man]

AHHH B man....TAR.....been ther done that........Don't do man, no matter how hard you try you wreck your shoes / clothes / fish'n gear etc. etc. every time you go fishing! and on a hot day you melt into it......I had to sell the boat I did it to, before mum shot me at the time.....

A good coat of epoxy paint first and a dab of silastic around any suspect rivets... I'm sure your papa will set you right!

Have fun

P.s Make sure you drop the leg off & put a new water pump impellor in the motor and a dab of grease on the drive shaft before you do any boating, some times those "ear muffs" can be a bit misleading.....found that out the $$$$$$ way...

im putting a floor in it so no problems. and the motor was completely rebuilt awhile back so it has no problems.

 

[B man]

Teyre not!

I had a briggs tank that was super rusted and after a day its clean bare steel!

Try it its free!

threre screwed and i mean SCREWED. i can sit there and just chip away at the metal.

 

[B man]

Good news! i got wood for the transom. enough for both sides to!

and i know i could re rivet,but is there bolts that could work?

 

[#28 FASTGRASS]

Good news! i got wood for the transom. enough for both sides to!

and i know i could re rivet,but is there bolts that could work?

You could use 316 grade stainless steel ones, no rusting and same as the type (metal wise) as the ones in your rebuilt outboard leg!

The trim tag on the O/B leg should be Magnesium in fresh water and Zinc in sea water (it is the sacrifical anode, so you dont corode your motor out) Post some flying passes in the water when you get her in the water....

 

[Doc Sprocket]

there way beyond electrolysis. Who wants to see the vintage boat light?

I'd rather see the hubs. I haven't seen one yet that couldn't be rebuilt. Electrolytic rust removal (or manually), new bearings, seals, cap, washer, nut, cotter pin- even new studs if necessary. Unless the spindle is physically mangled, it's rebuildable. Your call. He//, even if it is mangled... I came upon a spindle on a 3500lb axle several years back that never saw any maintenance. The bearings had grenaded so badly that the inner races broke up and chewed up the spindle. It was bad enough that the new bearing races wouldn't fit on. I gave it some lovin' with a grinder and a couple of files, welded in a bit of metal on some low spots, and presto! The new owner beat the bejeezus out of it for years, with no issues- including 4000+lb loads on a 3500lb trailer- until it was stolen last year.
Pity- the new "owner" will never come to appreciate my work.

 

[B man]

OK. as it turns out the boat never got done,but im gonna fix it now. and my old hubs are fixable, what i saw chipping away was the rim. so electrolysis and new bearings and it should be good. and ive decided to go down to bare aluminum.