Victa Engine

[Cam]

Hi all, new to the forums, love to see a strong community!

I have a victa v40 160cc mower engine - 2 stroke. 4-5 hp.

Today took it off the mower, removed all the plastic,carb,
exhaust down to the block.

Took the head off, cleaned it, cleaned the piston and surrounding areas.

Now i don't know too much about this engine, apart from its displacement and stroke, but judging from my experience with motors and all i can make this thing haul.

Now im going to be ditching the original carb, was thinking of using a slide carb off a small motorcycle but i don't want it to look like a performance engine as its going on a bobber cross board track racer lookalike, and i don't want the fast response /hi rev carb sound.

I was thinking of using a Tecumseh carb as i have used them on briggs and stratton 3.5hp with good results, it also looks nostagic and is also compact.

Was wondering what carb you all would recommend on a victa engine, or have on a victa engine, also is it neccesary to baffle the exhaust, the original muffler wast baffled just had a small outlet - and im not too worried about noise either.

Will post more info about drive train and will upload pics if wanted

Carb :

cheers, cam.

 

[sideways]

Hi all, new to the forums, love to see a strong community!

I have a victa v40 160cc mower engine - 2 stroke. 4-5 hp.

Today took it off the mower, removed all the plastic,carb,
exhaust down to the block.

Took the head off, cleaned it, cleaned the piston and surrounding areas.

Now i don't know too much about this engine, apart from its displacement and stroke, but judging from my experience with motors and all i can make this thing haul.

Now im going to be ditching the original carb, was thinking of using a slide carb off a small motorcycle but i don't want it to look like a performance engine as its going on a bobber cross board track racer lookalike, and i don't want the fast response /hi rev carb sound.

I was thinking of using a Tecumseh carb as i have used them on briggs and stratton 3.5hp with good results, it also looks nostagic and is also compact.

Was wondering what carb you all would recommend on a victa engine, or have on a victa engine, also is it necessary to baffle the exhaust, the original muffler wast baffled just had a small outlet - and im not too worried about noise either.

Will post more info about drive train and will upload pics if wanted

Carb :

cheers, cam.

Hi!

Which kind of Victa 160 do you have? The full crank type with a round head and removable cylinder or the half crank type with the square head and one piece block (know as the "Power Torque")? If you have the second type then its pretty useless, unless you have a metal lathe and the appropriate die then you can't get adapters to fit clutches and so on. Their a pretty weak engine too (because of its half crank design), I wouldn't trust one at high rpms.... The first type are quite good engines and adapters can be bought for them.

As for carbies, I use older Victa carbies, the G3 carby. They are metal and butterfly style and of course, bolt right up, they provide a huge increase in performance over the plastic (G4) carb. I think Brendonv used a Briggs carby on his. Some people use Walbro carbies on them but they can be a bit pricey, they apparently give quite good performance though.

I can post pictures of the G3 carby if you want?

As for the exhaust, they are fine to run with out any kind of exhaust system, they run fine with just the open port.

Got any pictures? Make sure you post a build thread!

Thanks

Hayden

 

[Rotore]

can u post pics of the engine

 

[Cam]

Hey yeah will do a build
log on site, im a little um, slow at building i like to make sure its safe and looks really good rather than bash ahead and just get it done!

I have both a full and half crank motor, but the full crank its gonna take a bit of work really its 100% disassembled in a box atm, that's the reason i got the "power torque" motor.

Was doing a trade me (nz equivalent to ebay) on victas and came across this : http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=286752239

He dosent seem to be having any troubles with it, but then again you guys are the experts.

The idea is not to run the clutch and chain straight off the motor
im thinking off using a boss that slips over in front of the flywheel with 4 equally spaced tapped holes to fit a Mitsubishi water pump pulley to: (cant find a pulley photo of my one!)

Then from the pulley runs a belt, to a Honda nifty fifty CVT/Centrifugal clutch on a jack shaft running across to the other side of the bike, on the other side there is a chain sprocket going to the back wheel. - So i don't think there is too much weight/load on the output shaft, or enough to worry about anyway, however i could be wrong!..

Im going to use a standard Tecumseh carburetor like in the previous photo, because the bolt hole are identical or near enough to the ones on the victa, and the aperture is the same - now im going to limit the revs as i don't want to be re - rebuilding the motor, plus with the cvt i only have to hit 2000 revs ad it will engage and it has 3 speeds

Hope you guys can understand that!
I'll post pics when i get my camera back tonight,

cheers,cam.

 

[Cam]

What do you guys think of my setup idea?

 

[Benjo]

i like your setup, haven't seen it done before (clutch on jack shaft).
what part of NZ are you from?

 

[Cam]

Whangarei, northland, yeah the setup is a little different than usual, i think it will work ok.

 

[brendonv]

Looking good. U might want to get a better carb in the future though. Try a dirt bike 2 stroke carb. Ur setup looks all good. Ive made a victa kart but changed the engine over for a honda. Starts better. Once u pull the head off u might wanna get a new gasket set for it. There about 4 bucks or something for the head, barrel and exhaust gasket. To get the old gasket off use a chisel and scratch it off since it some weird paper type thing and doesnt peel off like others. Once u have the gasket off recon the head and barrel by getting a sheet of glass, some fine grit wet n dry, get it nice n wet (dont think sexual everyone) and sand in a circular motion. This will make it seal better to boost compression. The reason for the glass is, glass is the flattest surface u can possibly get. If u have something flatter then use that. Dont sand it on something like a table or u will get an uneven surface and it will turn out a lot worse.

 

[Cam]

Hmm i like the glass concept! never thought of wet n dry, i just usually stick the wire brush fitting in the power drill, hmm will try that..

The victa didn't come with a head gasket funny enough, ill go down to the small engine parts dealer and grab one.

Yeah i know the carb may be not the best for it, but u know the story - its there, its working, and over a dirt bike carb its really simple, however taking it into consideration i will try a slide carb on it anyway, ill have to go get one tho

I like the idea of a butterfly controlled carb as well, that's really my main point of using it.
I like the victa's head, hemi style! will be sure to polish them up!

any other ideas welcome!

cheers, cam.

 

[brendonv]

Port the intake to the size of ur carb throat. I ported the hell out of mine. The intake is really weird. Port on the sides and botom. Dont port the top otherwise when the piston is on its down stroke it will let in fuel.

 

[Cam]

Haven't had time to do anything today, was wondering what you actually meant by the sheet of glass,
did you mean sand it and check for flatness with sheet of glass?

Or did you mean rest the glass on a table and then move head on it to sand?

Tomorrow ill post pics, im drilling the exhaust out, the muffler didn't come off it ripped out and left a bit of tube in there which i was not very impressed by, ill be drilling it down about 20mm, at 1 inch to remove the obstruction and to make way for the new exhaust manifold sleeve.

For the carburetor ill test this one and if it dosent perform ill drill the jet out a little, but i highly doubt it, like i said they work brilliant on Briggs and stratton engines, they have a 203mm inlet from air cleaner and a 200mm outlet into engine, the manifold is made from aluminum, 200mm from carburetor, down to 190mm (fits intake snug) via a gradual change in diameter. Flanges are there to be tigged and i have to make a flange that bolts to the engine, and then dremel the inside and outside to make it pretty.

not too confident on porting sorry, ill do my best to clean and make sure manifold and port are flush, smooth and all funchswey.

One more question, this may only apply to those who have worked on victa power torques here, -sideways?

the starter is positioned inconveniently, i want to rotate the starter 90* to the next set of bolts, I've tried and it fits, the engine turns round fine, the only concern is that on the starter piece that goes inside the engine making up the second crank piece has the corners cut off the circle (don't laugh i know its not possible it just looks exactly like they have!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgjgPOr-Adk&feature=related

they face upward towards the top of the engine, will it make any difference if i just rotate it round?

Hopefully by Wednesday ill have it running and ready to show the boys!

Many thanks again for all the help, any ideas welcome!

 

[fowler]

90 bucks new
4 bucks hand made on stone grinder / lathe

 

[Cam]

Sorry, what are you referring to? cheers.

 

[fowler]

the tool in the vid

 

[brendonv]

Get a sheet of glass. Lay it on a bench or watever. Put some sand paper on it and then sand the head. Glass is really really flat so it wont make imperfections in ur sanding.

 

[Cam]

After that, could i take the glass/sandpaper tool and put it on top of the block and sand that? cheers.

 

[brendonv]

Sure can. Just remember to not take off to much otherwise the piston might hit the head. Only want to take off a paper thin layer if that. Just so its all shiny. If u sand it and see that some parts are still dull it means theres bumps. Another good way to do this is colour in the head with permanent pen and then sand. All the imperfections will show up in black. Sand it until there is no permanent pen left. This method applies for the head, barrel and block.

 

[sideways]

One more question, this may only apply to those who have worked on victa power torques here, -sideways?

the starter is positioned inconveniently, i want to rotate the starter 90* to the next set of bolts, I've tried and it fits, the engine turns round fine, the only concern is that on the starter piece that goes inside the engine making up the second crank piece has the corners cut off the circle (don't laugh i know its not possible it just looks exactly like they have!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgjgPOr-Adk&feature=related

they face upward towards the top of the engine, will it make any difference if i just rotate it round?

I doubt it would make any difference, it didn't matter on the engine I tried it on(I am however yet to run that engine like that). The side-casing/pull starter take no loads from the crank when the engine is running so as long as you can still pull the engine over then it won't matter if you turn the side-casing.

Another way of smoothing the head is to use valve grinding paste and glass (was quite common practice on automotive engines decades ago). Or you can lap the head and block together.

Thanks

Hayden