Various Clutch and Predator Questions

[Arrowking]

My first question is how tight is the screw on that holds the clutch assembly to the engine shaft? It seems if I crank it on, the clutch never disengages(tries to roll on idle) and if it is loosened just a bit then the kart will idle with no issues.
Also, I've read that the Predators(212) come jetted lean from the factory. I've checked my plug and it looks fine to me(but I'm new to small engines). What do you guys think? My Pred seems laggy in terms of throttle response. Which main jets and pilots will fit in the stock carb?
Last questions, will a bored out carb(like the ones AGK sells) produce better throttle response and power? And will an aftermarket straight pipe be louder than the stock setup? With a muffler?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

That plug indicates that you're too lean. No surprise there- a lot of engines come out of the factory lean to look better in emission and economy testing.

 

[Arrowking]

Would I be correct in assuming that the way to even out the mixture is to drill the main jet?

 

[msanders03]

from experience i would not do it. i just went to a local race shop told them what i wanted to do and they new exactly what jet and tube to get me.

 

[Arrowking]

I want to learn about these engines, so I'm willing to put in the trial and error.

 

[mckutzy]

A straight pipe is louder as it has no baffling.

 

[msanders03]

from experience i would not do it. i just went to a local race shop told them what i wanted to do and they new exactly what jet and tube to get me.

I drilled out my first jet and did a horrible job, I thought it was right but you need really tiny drill bits to do it properly. That's what I meant.

 

[Arrowking]

Oh ok, I see what you mean now.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I do all my own jet drilling. I have never purchased a new jet. You would need a set of precision numbered drill bits. #61-#80 is a common set, and sized appropriately for most of our small engine applications. You would insert bits into your jet until you find what size it already is. Then, drill the next size up. Should you goof, you can use a plumber's torch and solder (I actually use self-fluxing electronics solder) to close the hole and do it again.

Do NOT use a power drill. Get yourself a pin vise, a hand tool designed to hold these tiny bits. The jets are soft brass, and easy to drill by hand.

 

[Arrowking]

I may tackle this project then. Which jets should I drill? The main and the pilot? Or just the pilot?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Simply doing the main will likely produce the desired results.

 

[Arrowking]

Thanks...Again!

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Any time!

 

[set2stun]

I have gone through a few modification phases with my Predator. I rejetted the factory carb with a .35 jet and new etube and saw improvement. Then i thought i was experiencing valve float so i installed 16 lb. springs and saw dramatic improvement. Then i installed an authentic bored out Honda carb, straight pipe and pulse fuel pump. Now it is insanely fast bordering on scary. I think i got the most bang for my buck out of the bored carb and valve springs. BTW here's a video of my motor as it runs now: http://youtu.be/s_-eaxkL6UI

 

[Arrowking]

Can you give me the link to where you bought your jet and e-tube? I wanna make sure it fits. When you changed the jet and tube did you see better throttle response?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I have gone through a few modification phases with my Predator. I rejetted the factory carb with a .35 jet and new etube and saw improvement. Then i thought i was experiencing valve float so i installed 16 lb. springs and saw dramatic improvement. Then i installed an authentic bored out Honda carb, straight pipe and pulse fuel pump. Now it is insanely fast bordering on scary. I think i got the most bang for my buck out of the bored carb and valve springs. BTW here's a video of my motor as it runs now: http://youtu.be/s_-eaxkL6UI

Your governor is still installed and functioning, right?

 

[set2stun]

That's the problem actually . . the governor is still attached but i'm not sure if its functioning. Right now i have the throttle attached directly to the governor arm with a spring. Does this configuration allow the governor arm to still operate?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Well, it's like this- You commented that "it's so fast, it's scary". This tells me that your governor is not working, OR your perception of speed has been fooled by the increase in power. Now- I believe I read in another post that since switching carbs, your governor control rod is no longer the right length. That being the case, no- it's not functioning properly. So- With the upgraded valve springs and otherwise stock internals, I would caution you to be gentle with the stupid pedal unless you don't mind the concept of various bodily parts being altered from a natural state...

 

[set2stun]

I agree Toystory. Do you think it would help to limit how far the idle can open to prevent. I was thinking about putting a large spring on the governor arm that prevents the butterfly from opening all the way.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Naw- that's no good. Remember- the throttle opening is NOT proportional to overall speed or RPM. It largely depends on load, and other factors.

I'm kinda chasing you around on various threads on this topic, but I have made a couple suggestions for you (in another thread).