valve springs

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BirdFanatic

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The more ibs the fast they close the faster they close on a high performance engine the better (with an equal cam to handle it of course )helps prevent valve float
 

Poboy kartman

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The more ibs the fast they close the faster they close on a high performance engine the better (with an equal cam to handle it of course )helps prevent valve float

REALLY????? C'mon man.....slow the he77 down on the posting.....do a little proof reading....and try to explain things in English....or don't post.....

The only people that have a clue what the heck that means can only understand it because they already know.....so what's the point?
 

OzFab

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anybody want to explain why heavier valve springs are better?

The amount of tension on valve springs determines the speed at which the valves close; a heavier spring will, obviously, close the valves a lot faster than light, stock springs...

Why is it important for the valves to close quickly? To maximise the amount of compression &, therefore, improve performance.

As BirdFanatic mentioned, at high RPM, with standard springs, the valves will tend to bounce or float, meaning they either don't close or they reopen after they have left the cam lobe because the spring isn't strong enough to hold them closed; if the valved don't seal, you lose compression, reducing &/or restricting performance; using heavier springs prevents valve float/bounce & allows the engine to rev higher but, they are also more effective at low RPM

With the factory governor intact, you will never see this condition as valve float/bounce doesn't start until around 5000rpm & the governor restricts the engine to around 3600rpm...

If you use heavier springs, it is highly recommended that you also use a billet conrod as the stock conrod is only tested to 5000rpm; even with the governor intact, it is recommended that you use a billet conrod due to the added pressure created by compression...



REALLY????? C'mon man.....slow the he77 down on the posting.....do a little proof reading....and try to explain things in English....or don't post.....

The only people that have a clue what the heck that means can only understand it because they already know.....so what's the point?

Be nice, Doug :toetap05:
 

rmm727

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Wanted to add that heavier valve springs are only beneficial to those who have a cam that needs them and turn the rpm to need them. Otherwise, you are robbing HP from the extra drag/friction. Its also a good way to wipe a lobe of your cam if its a stock or non hardened camshaft.
 

firemanjim

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Wanted to add that heavier valve springs are only beneficial to those who have a cam that needs them and turn the rpm to need them. Otherwise, you are robbing HP from the extra drag/friction. Its also a good way to wipe a lobe of your cam if its a stock or non hardened camshaft.

And NOW he starts to rack up posts....... LoL
Yep, you're right on the money..... :thumbsup:
Everybody hears that you need "this " and you need "that"..... BUT what they never hear is that getting "this" and "that", means you gotta do "these things "to make it all work right.......
A bigger jet don't make more power. I bigger jet, free intake, free exhaust...... It all works together. If not, you have one thing fighting another......
 

Poboy kartman

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Yes....this is what Cam was trying to say......and did....but his post was so sloppy that it made it hard to understand......(unless you already knew) ......
 

BirdFanatic

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The amount of tension on valve springs determines the speed at which the valves close; a heavier spring will, obviously, close the valves a lot faster than light, stock springs...

Why is it important for the valves to close quickly? To maximise the amount of compression &, therefore, improve performance.

As BirdFanatic mentioned, at high RPM, with standard springs, the valves will tend to bounce or float, meaning they either don't close or they reopen after they have left the cam lobe because the spring isn't strong enough to hold them closed; if the valved don't seal, you lose compression, reducing &/or restricting performance; using heavier springs prevents valve float/bounce & allows the engine to rev higher but, they are also more effective at low RPM

With the factory governor intact, you will never see this condition as valve float/bounce doesn't start until around 5000rpm & the governor restricts the engine to around 3600rpm...

If you use heavier springs, it is highly recommended that you also use a billet conrod as the stock conrod is only tested to 5000rpm; even with the governor intact, it is recommended that you use a billet conrod due to the added pressure created by compression...





Be nice, Doug :toetap05:
Fabro>Wont having stronger springs hurt the stock cam from the nasty force of it closing and opening .
Nope just takes a little to understand me :p .<PoBoy
 

OzFab

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Fabro>Wont having stronger springs hurt the stock cam from the nasty force of it closing and opening .

As rmm stated, yes they will...

The OP asked about valve springs, I "dumbed down" the explanation to make it simple, therefore, I neglected to mention the cam; :oops: my bad
 

Xtreme Yard Karts

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Fabro>Wont having stronger springs hurt the stock cam from the nasty force of it closing and opening .
Nope just takes a little to understand me :p .<PoBoy

Well that depends on whether we are talking about heavier or heavy springs. You can go a little heavier than stock with no ill effects on a stock cast cam, but if you put heavy 36# race springs, you better have upgraded valves, retainers, and a heat treated cam.

You can get better performance out of a stock cam, especially on an OHV engine, with slightly stiffer springs. OHV engines experience valve float at lower RPM than stock flathead engines do suffer from less valve float than OHV engines because the valve train is lighter because there are only 2 major moving components (lifter and valve - no rocker arms or pushrods).

Like anything, the components need to work in combination with each other.
 
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