Upgraded Predator Starting Issue

[dvonlangen]

Hey i recently began modding a predator 212. I installed 18lb valve springs, a new jet and e-tube, an arc flywheel and removed the governor. Now when I go to start it almost every time I pull the starter it yanks it back outta my hand practically tearing my fingers out of their sockets. Once it's started it runs great however. Does anybody have any idea how I can go about fixing the problem of the starter getting ripped back?! please help

 

[KartFab]

pull harder, if you pull like a wimp it might kick back like that, but i suspect your valve lash could be messed up. (im clueless though im just throwing out this stuff hopefully someone else who knows what they are talking about can chime in)

Check your lash with a feeler gauge and adjust if necessary. I have no idea what your lash should be, but it may need to be adjusted.

 

[OzFab]

...& you chose to hijack 2 existing thread as opposed to starting a new one because...?

There are two things that are frowned upon here; twin posts & thread hijacking. So far, you have two posts & you've broken both rules with both posts...



Your first mistake was installing the heavy valve springs; you mention a billet flywheel but, nothing about a billet conrod; FACT: the stock conrod will shatter before the stock flywheel...

Have you also upgraded the cam?

 

[landuse]

If you don't have the billet conrod, do not run your engine. You might have a explosive problem

 

[dvonlangen]

Conrod is going in today, and no the cam is stock and was put back in properly. My apologies about not starting a new thread i couldnt figure out how

 

[dvonlangen]

Predator 212 still having issues

So I started off with a predator 212 bone stock. The power was okay but I definitely wanted to beef it up. I have now replaced the conrod will a billet one, a billet flywheel, 18lb valve springs, new jet and e-tube, along with removing the governor and replacing the gaskets. Now when I go to start it after a couple pulls it yanks the pull cord out of my hand and back to the motor sometimes taking out my other hand on the gas tank on the way back. I have tried reseting the valve lash with no change. I also replaced the jet with another one that seems to make it run smoother than my first replacement. Anybody have any tips or ideas about what could be causing the motor to snap back outta my hand? (Cam crank and piston are stock.) Thanks!

 

[Half-breeder]

Weak grip? Not sayin ur a wimp... But if u know its gonna yank back on you... IMO a firmer grip should be administered.

... just sayin is all...

 

[dvonlangen]

No, definitely not the problem. The first couple times I'll admit I didn't grip it hard enough but even knowing it's coming, it still can snatch it outta my hand. Something's gotta be off or something i'd think cause it didn't do it when it was stock or without the governor, just with all the new parts on it

 

[mckutzy]

I'm not totally sure, I think I read somewhere something about if the ignition timing is a bit/much off, could cause violent starts or a kickback.

 

[rmm727]

lash isn't set correctly or flywheel key is sheared.

 

[dvonlangen]

The flywheel key appears to be fine, i have the lash set to .003 on the intake and .004 on the exhaust, does that sound correct? And right now i have the coil gap at .030 and the arc flywheel is timed how they sent it to me. Does the lash sound correct? And if i create more of a gap between the coil and flywheel will it delay the timing maybe?

 

[Poboy kartman]

Conrod is going in today, and no the cam is stock and was put back in properly. My apologies about not starting a new thread i couldnt figure out how

For future reference. ...if you scroll up to the top of the thread....you'll see blah blah blah. ...starting with diygokarts forum underlined. ..and then broken down by >........if you click on the category. ... (in this case engines & cclutches) ....it will bring up a small "start new thread" box just below that on the left hand side. ......

 

[OzFab]

I have the lash set to .003 on the intake and .004 on the exhaust, does that sound correct?

That sounds about right...

if i create more of a gap between the coil and flywheel will it delay the timing maybe?

Some say that by increasing the coil gap, you make the spark stronger, others say you make it weaker but, no one says it retards the timing; the only way to do that is to move the flywheel position in relation to the crankshaft...

 

[rmm727]

lash has to be set on the correct stroke so that it wasn't set on the compression release.

 

[Scout]

That sounds about right...



Some say that by increasing the coil gap, you make the spark stronger, others say you make it weaker but, no one says it retards the timing; the only way to do that is to move the flywheel position in relation to the crankshaft...

Which is done with an offset key.

The ARC flywheel has 8 degrees of timing built in. That may have something to do with it.