Is there a better governor gear for the 212 that won't come apart at higher rpms? I'm looking at a snow blower motor upgrade and would like to build a mild cammed 212 with the governor at to like 5k or 6k. Obviously in this application i can't just delete the governor.
Upgraded predator governor gear
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anickode
Active member
What kind/size of snowblower and what hp is it currently?
Snow blowers can get complicated for engine swaps... Many of them use a second PTO off the camshaft (half speed and backwards rotation) to drive the wheels. Trying to work around that can end up costing more than it's worth. Even if it already uses the main crank PTO, you'll need to gear the wheels down more so your travel speed is still appropriate for snowblowing
And no, there isn't anything I've ever seen or heard of for what you're asking.
If your goal is a higher tip speed at the impeller, your best bet is to build for max power at ~4000 and use a taller gear ratio. you can eek a bit more out of the stock gov without much risk.
Personally, I think you'd want more torque than high rpms. Snow is heavy. Takes a lot of grunt to get it moving. For what a 212 and the aftermarket parts would cost you, you could put a bigger engine (maybe even a 420) on there, have more power, no bogging, electric start, headlights, and a whole lot less noise. That's a major bonus if you have neighbors.
Snow blowers can get complicated for engine swaps... Many of them use a second PTO off the camshaft (half speed and backwards rotation) to drive the wheels. Trying to work around that can end up costing more than it's worth. Even if it already uses the main crank PTO, you'll need to gear the wheels down more so your travel speed is still appropriate for snowblowing
And no, there isn't anything I've ever seen or heard of for what you're asking.
If your goal is a higher tip speed at the impeller, your best bet is to build for max power at ~4000 and use a taller gear ratio. you can eek a bit more out of the stock gov without much risk.
Personally, I think you'd want more torque than high rpms. Snow is heavy. Takes a lot of grunt to get it moving. For what a 212 and the aftermarket parts would cost you, you could put a bigger engine (maybe even a 420) on there, have more power, no bogging, electric start, headlights, and a whole lot less noise. That's a major bonus if you have neighbors.
Ariens 10000 series, the tech on it supposedly made 7hp when it was new in 1969, I'm sure that's more like 4hp now. But it's a muscle car, deserves an excessive muscle car motor.
It only has 1 pulley on the motor, the factory mounting pattern and pulley height is the same as the 212, only difference with how it interfaces the machine is 3/4" shaft vs 1".
I'll probably just end up building it for 4k rpm which basically means stock cam as far as i can tell. Torque doesn't matter to me when i can control the drive ratio, 10hp at 5k rpms makes more wheel torque than 10hp at 4k rpms at the same wheel speed.
And I'd love to do a 420 swap but they're too big. You have to move them really far back which screws up the balance and with the higher shaft height the factory belt cover won't clear any more.
It only has 1 pulley on the motor, the factory mounting pattern and pulley height is the same as the 212, only difference with how it interfaces the machine is 3/4" shaft vs 1".
I'll probably just end up building it for 4k rpm which basically means stock cam as far as i can tell. Torque doesn't matter to me when i can control the drive ratio, 10hp at 5k rpms makes more wheel torque than 10hp at 4k rpms at the same wheel speed.
And I'd love to do a 420 swap but they're too big. You have to move them really far back which screws up the balance and with the higher shaft height the factory belt cover won't clear any more.
KartFab
Active member
Some initial findings with my dynamometer are that if you have a governed engine, it will make less hp at the same rpm as an ungoverned engine, even if it is under the governed RPM. Make sense? In other words. 5k rpm governed will make less hp than 5k rpm ungoverned, all else the same.
My nephews hemi predator with stage 1 modifications revs to 5500 rpm, which is valve float with no other modifications. Governor has not been touched.
Anything above manufacturers spec for governed rpm puts you at increased risk for some type of failure.
Looking at the theory behind it all, it is air flow and load that matters. The governor controls air flow. If you can find a way to limit air flow, then the engine will only breathe as much as it is allowed to breathe. A work around could be just screwing the friction nut for the throttle lever to a position where the engine only goes up to 5k rpm under load.
Interesting question though. Never thought about it like that. There are limits to all of this though. Again, with my initial dyno testing, stage 1 modifications start to show increasingly higher benefits beyond 3000-3600 rpm. Meaning, you might not see a lot of benefit with stage 1 mods at low rpm, but the benefits will be much higher at higher rpm.
My nephews hemi predator with stage 1 modifications revs to 5500 rpm, which is valve float with no other modifications. Governor has not been touched.
Anything above manufacturers spec for governed rpm puts you at increased risk for some type of failure.
Looking at the theory behind it all, it is air flow and load that matters. The governor controls air flow. If you can find a way to limit air flow, then the engine will only breathe as much as it is allowed to breathe. A work around could be just screwing the friction nut for the throttle lever to a position where the engine only goes up to 5k rpm under load.
Interesting question though. Never thought about it like that. There are limits to all of this though. Again, with my initial dyno testing, stage 1 modifications start to show increasingly higher benefits beyond 3000-3600 rpm. Meaning, you might not see a lot of benefit with stage 1 mods at low rpm, but the benefits will be much higher at higher rpm.
mckutzy
Well-known member
Just the "Gov lever adjustmet mod" done??
karl
Well-known member
The closer the gap between the augers and the housing, the farther it will throw snow.
Make sure the augers are straight and with the shear pins removed, can turn without hitting the adjacent auger. And of course make sure none are sheared.
Then if your scraper bar is intact and evenly worn, set the skid shoes to your application.
Id do that before trying to hod rod the motor, if the goal is to move more snow
Make sure the augers are straight and with the shear pins removed, can turn without hitting the adjacent auger. And of course make sure none are sheared.
Then if your scraper bar is intact and evenly worn, set the skid shoes to your application.
Id do that before trying to hod rod the motor, if the goal is to move more snow
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